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mtnman455Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!

mtnman455

Of 23 people descending during our ascending 21 didn't make it yet there were perfect conditions. Wonderful to be far away from DC and Camp Muir and its citizens. Ice shoot was great. 60 degree alpine ice for 200m. Ice fall off the Ice Cliff was epic. Couldn't pick a better time to climb. If you want something a little harder with way less people then hit up Kautz.
Posted Jul 7, 2003 5:59 pm

agorokhovRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: : June 18, 2003
Climbed Disappointment Cleaver route with Miguel, Mike and Murray. Desided to go back before reaching the top of the cleaver due to bad weather.
Posted Jul 1, 2003 12:57 pm

TimpanogosRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 23, 2003  Sucess!
5 inches of snow fell on Sunday. Perfect conditions on Monday. Camped at Ingraham Flats. Serac band at about 13,000 feet pushed our team far to the right to the top of the Emmons Glacier. Had the summit to ourselves for 45 minutes at about 7 am. Passed several teams on the way down, some coming from Camp Shurman and some from Camp Muir.
Posted Jun 28, 2003 12:50 pm

mdostbyRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 18, 2003

mdostby

Climbed with Miguel, Alex and Murray. Turned back before reaching the top of the cleaver. Bad weather with high winds, lightning and poor visability were the deciding factors that prompted us to turn back to Camp Muir. At least 4 other teams also turned back. May try again latter this summer, if not, it's on the schedual for 2004.
Posted Jun 24, 2003 7:37 pm

daynegainsRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 2, 2001  Sucess!

daynegains

July 2, 2001 - Disappointment Cleaver.

Climbed with "TexasClimber" and with RMI (expedition seminar). 7 hour ascent (3am-10am) to the summit and a 4 hour slog back to high camp. Really good weather with some high winds approaching the crater.



June 6, 2002 - Emmons Glacier.

High camp at Camp Schurman. The Mountain was in pristine condition this early in the season. Climbed for 3.5 hours (12:30am-4am) to 12,500 ft and spun due to high winds and inclement weather. But boy what a sunrise above the could deck that we witnessed. Though I didn't know at the time, two climbers perished and three had to be rescued from a crevasse that day on the DC route. It was definitley not hospitable climbing conditions.
Posted Jun 19, 2003 10:07 am

couchtaterRoute Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 9, 2003  Sucess!

couchtater

I went with RMI. This was a tough but exciting climb. See trip report for details.
Posted Jun 18, 2003 8:49 am

TexasClimberRoute Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Direct Date Climbed: May, 26, 2003  Sucess!

TexasClimber

Martin, Justin, Brandon and I reached the summit via the Ingraham Direct around 7AM on May 26, 2003. I found this route to be more shorter, yet more technically challeged versus the DC. It you like big hanging ice in your route, visit Rainier in May and check out the Ingraham Glacier Direct. My Memorial Day weekend at Rainier was so intense that I wrote a trip report about it. It's titleled "Wake Up Call on the Ingraham Glacier Direct!" Make sure to read it especially if you are a Rainier first timer or just interest in climbing this route.
Posted Jun 8, 2003 9:28 pm

TexasClimberRoute Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 2, 2001  Sucess!

TexasClimber

Summited via the DC with 6 people (2 RMI guides, 4 clients) in two rope teams of 3. The climb was great! The weather was gorgeous. We started below Muir on our alpine ascent. I conserved my energy for the descent by avoiding the crater trek to the high point of the mountain. I was impressed by the massive nature of the crater area! You could spend a day exploring it!
Posted Jun 8, 2003 8:39 pm

Martin CashRoute Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Direct Date Climbed: May 26, 2003  Sucess!

Martin Cash

Justin, Brandon, Erricos, and I hiked up to Muir on Saturday morning, then waited out the bad weather for 36 hours. We received clear skies and cold temps when we left for the summit at 1:40 AM on Memorial Day.



The first 3,000 feet of the climb went very quickly and we rapidly passed several other groups. I came down with AMS at about 13,500 feet while bonked from a lack of appitite, and dehydrated because our water was frozen solid. I've never had to dig as deep physically in my life just to keep putting one more foot forward. The summit finally arrived around 7:00 with zero degree temps and very strong winds, as a lenticular had formed.



On the descent, Erricos slipped down a slope into a crevasse. I took the fall by diving unto the snow bridge of a nearby gigantic crevasse to brace myself. Justin and Brandon attempted an extraction, while I held my end. Eventually, after nearly 30 minutes for struggling, we lowered Erricos down (thank god it was a small crevasse). He then rapped down to the path below, after we set up our second rope as a fixed line. This little incident definately made the climb more exciting.



The rest of the descent wasn't bad, and the Muir snowfield descent had about 1,500 feet of glissading. A very interesting trip.
Posted May 27, 2003 12:27 am

wallspeckRoute Climbed: Cleaver, Emmons, Liberty Ridge, Date Climbed: July, '95-'08

wallspeck

1995 Cleaver Rt., with Doug Churchhill
1996 Emmons Rt., with Jeff Slepski and Tim
Also did the Cleaver Rt., twice in the next week
1997 Emmons Rt., with wife Melody, John @ Evan Holt
1998 Cleaver Rt., with Lewis Gunn and Andrea
2004 Cleaver Rt., with Oliver Jones
2006 Liberty Ridge with Pete Kirkham and Don Pusateri
2008 Cleaver Rt., with Jeff Slepski, Pete Kirkham, Don Pusateri,

A very interesting place, always changing and very dangerous.
Posted May 20, 2003 10:37 pm

krishnaRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2002  Sucess!
Beautiful weather on the way up, 50 mph winds on the summit. The snow bridges were all fine. We saw a BIG chunk of ice fall downhill from us on Ingraham which scared the hell out of us, but we were done with most of the descent by then.
Posted May 12, 2003 2:15 pm

cuprinaRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 2001, 2002  Sucess!
Summited twice in 2001 and 2002 over Independence Day weekend. Great weather both times. Want to come back this year again, via different route.
Posted Mar 13, 2003 3:35 pm

HonkeydongRoute Climbed: 1st: DC, 2nd: Emmons glacier Date Climbed: Sept 1998  Sucess!

Honkeydong

Weathered off the DC with Pete and Jim. Returned the next week with Pete and Andy for calm grey weather and lengthy end runs. Packed lighter and enjoyed the hike to Glacier Basin. On the summit by 10:45 am after a bivy near the Turtle.
Posted Mar 11, 2003 1:45 pm

MikeBRoute Climbed: Fuhrer Finger Date Climbed: July, 1997

MikeB

No summit, but climbed chute twice in one day.
Posted Mar 9, 2003 5:13 pm

ktnbsRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 7, 1978  Sucess!

ktnbs

With Marty Hoey as lead rope.
Posted Mar 7, 2003 9:56 pm

Pencil PusherRoute Climbed: Der Fuhrer's Finger Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!

Pencil Pusher

Jah, das ist recht meine frauleins, ich climbe der Fuhrers Finger und ich used eine Munter hitch to belay Herr Knudsen off the Kautz kopf-wall.

A nice day and the route was pretty sweet too. Those pickets left next to the traverse under the ugly cliff looked mighty tempting to claim as booty, except they were attached with cord like a fixed line :(

Nice "cave" at the 9200ft bivy. Also nice checking out the Chinook circling over the DC area for the whole day.
Posted Mar 7, 2003 12:46 am

iamaclimberRoute Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 22, 2001  Sucess!

iamaclimber

This was my second attempt to summit Rainier. My first attempt was one year and one day earlier. I learned a lot from my first time on the mountain. Be in the best physical shape that you can get into before you make an attempt. The better shape you are in then the more fun the climb will be. The first year was with a RMI expedition climb. What I learned on that trip was well worth the expense. This summit was with a friend that was an experienced climber. I was fortunate to have weather good enough to climb in on both my trips. See Alpine Air 2000, and Return to Rainier in my reports section.
Posted Feb 26, 2003 7:38 pm

tonybell1Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 1981  Sucess!

tonybell1

Ash on the mountain from the eruption of Mt. St. Helens.
Posted Feb 26, 2003 7:15 pm

sskeepRoute Climbed: Disapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 8, 2001  Sucess!

sskeep

July 7, 2001, Pat, Scott, Steve and I headed out from the Paradise ranger station on a beautiful sunny day and climbed up to Camp Muir arriving around noon. We set up camp and prepared for a midnight push for the summit. The night was crisp and cloudless with a full moon so headlamps were not really needed. With Steve leading the rope team we reached the summit at 7am and only passed one other group of climbers. We spent some time at the summit and there were quite a few larger slow moving teams we passed on the way down. We spent another night at Camp Muir, while most other people packed up and headed off the mountain. The next day Scot skied down the Muir snow field while the rest of use used sitting glissades. Since we planned 5 days for this trip and only used 2 to climb Mt. Rainier we went up and checked out the Ho Rain Forest. This climbing trip couldn’t have been more perfect! Darryl
Posted Feb 24, 2003 6:24 pm

Zhenya77Route Climbed: Ingram Direct Route Date Climbed: March 24, 2001  Sucess!

Zhenya77

Our group of six students from the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign decided to spend our Spring break by climbing Mt.Rainier. Once we get to Paradise (5500 ft) we started to hick through a deep snow to Camp Muir. (10000 ft). The last 100 m were quite difficult. The weather was getting worse and with terrible wisibility we could hardly kept ourself from falling at constant 40mil/hour wind gust. After waiting 2 days for good weather we finally made our first attempt to reach the summit by the Gibraltar Ledges. Since we never climbed together. We moved pretty slow. Thus at about half point we decided to turn back. The second attempt was more successful. We started at 12:00 am and chose to go by Ingram Direct Route. It was quite an exhaustive strenuous walk through the deep (some times waist deep) snow. Finally we reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier. The most interesting part was that we also had to walk back to the parking lot and drive to the airport. On the way dow from the camp Muir we got lost in the dark. After camping in the snow we decent early in the morning.
Posted Jan 23, 2003 8:42 pm

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