Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: August 1981
The north face is quite loose, but an enjoyable route. It seems almost unnecessary to remark on the stunning view from the summit. The Minarets are particularly striking.
My friend Christine had some trouble with the snow below the NF, losing her footing at one point and sliding whump, whump, whump over the big suncups before coming to a stop. She was unhurt, luckily. It would have been a good place to have an ice axe and knowledge of its use.
Route Climbed: Southeast glacier Date Climbed: September 12, 2004
Very loose and steep rocky slopes detracted from the fun of this climb. I recommend trying earlier in the season so there's at least a little bit of snow left to walk on.
Route Climbed: Up the SE Glacier, down the N Face Date Climbed: August 30, 2004
After this little hike, I certainly can't recommend Ritter as a "fun" peak --- at least in August. The rock is loose, the ice is hard, and the summit is less-than-inspiring. It certainly falls into the "slog" catagory. The N Face route was incredibly annoying due to the fragile, loose nature of the outcrop and ledges --- no way to make good time when every step and hold must be tested and backed up! Front-pointing with aluminum flexis on tennis approach shoes does not produce a secure feeling, either. The route up Banner, however, was much more enjoyable.
Look for a trip report to come from Barry Beck in the near future.
Route Climbed: SE Glacier (sort of) Date Climbed: 21-August-2004
We had intended to do the SE Glacier route, and carried crampons & axes, but the glacier looked way too icy. So we took a rock route, which worked out just as well, only class 2 with a few class easy 3 moves. Incredible views. Travel on the glacier at this time is not recommended.
Route Climbed: North Face (Classic Route) Date Climbed: May 25th, 2004
Climbed Ritter right after doing Banner Pk. I ascended the N face via the Classic variation, but ducked into the 2nd class chute on the west rather than taking the ledges, since the traverse looked shaky and I was racing against some incoming storm clouds.
With snow, the entire route was very steep, with some fun intermixed class 3. The snow was shallow (perhaps 1/2 inch) before hardening to an ice-like consistency, which made for good cramponing.
I descended by glissading down the Clyde variation to my camp above Lake Ediza.
Route Climbed: SE Glacier Date Climbed: Sept. 1999
Despite previous reports of routefinding difficulties, we found this to be a straightforward class 2 climb. Had to hussle off of summit to avoid approaching T-storm
Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: October 11, 2003
I backpacked in Saturday morning with SP members mdostby and agorokhov. We were to meet SP member kdonaldson at Ediza Lake later that morning. We left Agnew Meadows at 6:00am. We arrived at Ediza Lake at 9:37am where we met up with kdonaldson and began to set the tent up. Alex (a.k.a. agorokhov) drove his car this week since last week I drove mine to Saddlebag Lake where we climbed the right NE Couloir. Anyway, in the transfer of my gear to his trunk I left out my mountaineering boots. So here I was Saturday morning with just my New Balance 803AT running shoes. Luckly for me, kdonaldson had strap-on crampons and I borrowed his while he borrowed my step-ins. We started hiking towards the Ritter/Banner saddle at 10:46am from Ediza Lake. I went at my own pace and by 1:30pm I reached the R/B saddle. Ascending the hard-snow chute was a bit painful with crampons strapped onto my running shoes. I waited 'til 1:47pm for the group but I did not see them at the bottom of the chute. So, I decided I would just go for the North Face of Ritter while they're coming up. Now, I meant to take the Classic Chute up the North Face of Ritter; however, I realized I was off-route when I encountered low 5th class moves and plenty of class 4. I later climbed that day Banner and noticed that I actually climbed the chute immediately left of the Classic Chute. I made the summit of Ritter at 2:33pm (46 minutes from the R/B saddle to summit). I was only on top for a few minutes. I descended via the North Face via the Classic Chute back to the R/B saddle. At the saddle, the group left me a note on my pack (I left my pack at the saddle while I was climbing Ritter) saying that they decided to turn back and return to camp. I rested for a few short minutes at the R/B saddle and then I headed up the Western Slope of Banner at 3:23pm. I made the summit of Banner Peak at 4:00pm. Stayed there 'til 4:15pm and headed back down to the saddle. I put on the strap-on crampons and with ice axe in hand I descended the snow chute, which was a bit icy by now (it was 5:00pm and the chute was totally shadowed). I walked into camp at 6:20pm and Alex was the only one there. mdostby and kdonaldson had left 20 minutes earlier back to Agnew Meadows trailhead. I packed up my things and then Alex and I hiked out from Ediza Lake around 7:00pm. We met up with kdonaldson and mdostby at 9:40pm at the trailhead. We later had a late night dinner (~ 11pm) at the Denny's in Bishop. The group decided to turn back because of the late hour if they had gone for Banner Peak and concerns over the icy chute. All in all, another very long day!
Route Climbed: North Face, Muir route Date Climbed: July 13, 2003
Climbing up to the saddle was exciting with just light hiking boots and ice axes. But thankfully the final chute to the saddle wasn't as steep as it looked on the approach.
Climbing the right hand chute above the saddle was a breeze, the higher wider chute closer to the top was more consistent third class.
We were so hungry on the summit that we ate a pound of Velveeta cheese with a box of Triscuits. This equals about 6 times the recommended sodium intake, so our climb of Banner afterwards was a thirsty one, but we refuse to eat anything that has the letters BAR on its label.
Thankfully, no one was above us, as there's a fair amount of loose rock. All the ledges are solid though, so it's pretty doable for non-technical hikers.
Route Climbed: North Face (ascent), SE Glacier (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2003
Day 2 of the 2003 Sierra Challenge. With Michael Graupe and Dan Siebert, reached the summit 2hr after leaving the summit of Banner Peak, 7.5hr after leaving Agnew Meadows. What a fun day. Trip Report
Route Climbed: Variation of Clyde Variation Date Climbed: August 1999
My fiance Mary Alice Tackett and I climbed a variation between the SE Glacier route and the Clyde variation. A great view from the summit, and I even called my mom from the top! Then back to Lake Ediza for a day of drinking champagne!
Route Climbed: John Muir Route; Ritter/Banner Saddle Date Climbed: August, 2000
My 2 good friends summited Banner while I was on Ritter. I could see them as tiny specks on top of Banner and heard my name shouted across a 1000 meter abyss between us. What a treat for a solo climber high in the Sierra!
Route Climbed: SE Glacier Date Climbed: August 25, 2001
This mountain is a real alpine experience...in California. As this was a light snow year, the ice was pretty hard, bergschrund open and amazing. Smoke from a forest fire killed some views to the south and of the Clark Range.
Steve Larson - Nov 5, 2004 10:56 pm
Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: August 1981The north face is quite loose, but an enjoyable route. It seems almost unnecessary to remark on the stunning view from the summit. The Minarets are particularly striking.
My friend Christine had some trouble with the snow below the NF, losing her footing at one point and sliding whump, whump, whump over the big suncups before coming to a stop. She was unhurt, luckily. It would have been a good place to have an ice axe and knowledge of its use.
derbilly - Sep 13, 2004 6:23 pm
Route Climbed: Southeast glacier Date Climbed: September 12, 2004Very loose and steep rocky slopes detracted from the fun of this climb. I recommend trying earlier in the season so there's at least a little bit of snow left to walk on.
bearbnz - Sep 2, 2004 10:44 am
Route Climbed: SE Glacier/Owens Chute, descended the North Face, Classic(?) Chute Date Climbed: August 30, 2004This peak is a tottering pile of loose junk. I'm crossing it off of my list for good. See the trip report for all of the sordid details.
ScottyS - Sep 1, 2004 4:11 pm
Route Climbed: Up the SE Glacier, down the N Face Date Climbed: August 30, 2004After this little hike, I certainly can't recommend Ritter as a "fun" peak --- at least in August. The rock is loose, the ice is hard, and the summit is less-than-inspiring. It certainly falls into the "slog" catagory. The N Face route was incredibly annoying due to the fragile, loose nature of the outcrop and ledges --- no way to make good time when every step and hold must be tested and backed up! Front-pointing with aluminum flexis on tennis approach shoes does not produce a secure feeling, either. The route up Banner, however, was much more enjoyable.
Look for a trip report to come from Barry Beck in the near future.
atc - Aug 31, 2004 3:57 am
Route Climbed: Southeast Glacier via Owen's chute Date Climbed: September 1, 2002Used Alan Ritter's excellent route description to climb Mt. Ritter from Lake Ediza.
rhyang - Aug 23, 2004 2:44 am
Route Climbed: SE Glacier (sort of) Date Climbed: 21-August-2004We had intended to do the SE Glacier route, and carried crampons & axes, but the glacier looked way too icy. So we took a rock route, which worked out just as well, only class 2 with a few class easy 3 moves. Incredible views. Travel on the glacier at this time is not recommended.
PellucidWombat - May 27, 2004 9:39 pm
Route Climbed: North Face (Classic Route) Date Climbed: May 25th, 2004Climbed Ritter right after doing Banner Pk. I ascended the N face via the Classic variation, but ducked into the 2nd class chute on the west rather than taking the ledges, since the traverse looked shaky and I was racing against some incoming storm clouds.
With snow, the entire route was very steep, with some fun intermixed class 3. The snow was shallow (perhaps 1/2 inch) before hardening to an ice-like consistency, which made for good cramponing.
I descended by glissading down the Clyde variation to my camp above Lake Ediza.
RSN473 - Mar 11, 2004 10:27 am
Route Climbed: SE Glacier Date Climbed: Sept. 1999Despite previous reports of routefinding difficulties, we found this to be a straightforward class 2 climb. Had to hussle off of summit to avoid approaching T-storm
mtnfoto - Jan 23, 2004 3:56 pm
Route Climbed: North Face up, SE Glacier down Date Climbed: 1976Climbed this after Banner from the saddle as a day hike from Agnew Meadows.
forjan - Oct 13, 2003 11:48 pm
Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: October 11, 2003I backpacked in Saturday morning with SP members mdostby and agorokhov. We were to meet SP member kdonaldson at Ediza Lake later that morning. We left Agnew Meadows at 6:00am. We arrived at Ediza Lake at 9:37am where we met up with kdonaldson and began to set the tent up. Alex (a.k.a. agorokhov) drove his car this week since last week I drove mine to Saddlebag Lake where we climbed the right NE Couloir. Anyway, in the transfer of my gear to his trunk I left out my mountaineering boots. So here I was Saturday morning with just my New Balance 803AT running shoes. Luckly for me, kdonaldson had strap-on crampons and I borrowed his while he borrowed my step-ins. We started hiking towards the Ritter/Banner saddle at 10:46am from Ediza Lake. I went at my own pace and by 1:30pm I reached the R/B saddle. Ascending the hard-snow chute was a bit painful with crampons strapped onto my running shoes. I waited 'til 1:47pm for the group but I did not see them at the bottom of the chute. So, I decided I would just go for the North Face of Ritter while they're coming up. Now, I meant to take the Classic Chute up the North Face of Ritter; however, I realized I was off-route when I encountered low 5th class moves and plenty of class 4. I later climbed that day Banner and noticed that I actually climbed the chute immediately left of the Classic Chute. I made the summit of Ritter at 2:33pm (46 minutes from the R/B saddle to summit). I was only on top for a few minutes. I descended via the North Face via the Classic Chute back to the R/B saddle. At the saddle, the group left me a note on my pack (I left my pack at the saddle while I was climbing Ritter) saying that they decided to turn back and return to camp. I rested for a few short minutes at the R/B saddle and then I headed up the Western Slope of Banner at 3:23pm. I made the summit of Banner Peak at 4:00pm. Stayed there 'til 4:15pm and headed back down to the saddle. I put on the strap-on crampons and with ice axe in hand I descended the snow chute, which was a bit icy by now (it was 5:00pm and the chute was totally shadowed). I walked into camp at 6:20pm and Alex was the only one there. mdostby and kdonaldson had left 20 minutes earlier back to Agnew Meadows trailhead. I packed up my things and then Alex and I hiked out from Ediza Lake around 7:00pm. We met up with kdonaldson and mdostby at 9:40pm at the trailhead. We later had a late night dinner (~ 11pm) at the Denny's in Bishop. The group decided to turn back because of the late hour if they had gone for Banner Peak and concerns over the icy chute. All in all, another very long day!
darinchadwick - Aug 30, 2003 3:11 am
Route Climbed: North Face, Muir route Date Climbed: July 13, 2003Climbing up to the saddle was exciting with just light hiking boots and ice axes. But thankfully the final chute to the saddle wasn't as steep as it looked on the approach.
Climbing the right hand chute above the saddle was a breeze, the higher wider chute closer to the top was more consistent third class.
We were so hungry on the summit that we ate a pound of Velveeta cheese with a box of Triscuits. This equals about 6 times the recommended sodium intake, so our climb of Banner afterwards was a thirsty one, but we refuse to eat anything that has the letters BAR on its label.
Thankfully, no one was above us, as there's a fair amount of loose rock. All the ledges are solid though, so it's pretty doable for non-technical hikers.
Bob Burd - Aug 10, 2003 10:48 pm
Route Climbed: North Face (ascent), SE Glacier (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2003Day 2 of the 2003 Sierra Challenge. With Michael Graupe and Dan Siebert, reached the summit 2hr after leaving the summit of Banner Peak, 7.5hr after leaving Agnew Meadows. What a fun day. Trip Report
Dave K - Jan 22, 2003 5:41 pm
Route Climbed: Southeast Glacier Date Climbed: July 2002I climbed this with my good friend Samantha. It's a wonderful climb.
Craig Peer - Sep 23, 2002 12:45 pm
Route Climbed: Variation of Clyde Variation Date Climbed: August 1999My fiance Mary Alice Tackett and I climbed a variation between the SE Glacier route and the Clyde variation. A great view from the summit, and I even called my mom from the top! Then back to Lake Ediza for a day of drinking champagne!
ocelot - Jul 11, 2002 9:55 am
Route Climbed: John Muir Route; Ritter/Banner Saddle Date Climbed: August, 2000My 2 good friends summited Banner while I was on Ritter. I could see them as tiny specks on top of Banner and heard my name shouted across a 1000 meter abyss between us. What a treat for a solo climber high in the Sierra!
steeleman - Oct 28, 2001 2:52 pm
Route Climbed: SE Glacier Date Climbed: September 29, 2001Second time on Mt. Ritter this year. A very fun climb for non-technical climbers.
See trip report by clicking here.
mpbro - Aug 28, 2001 8:19 am
Route Climbed: SE Glacier Date Climbed: August 25, 2001This mountain is a real alpine experience...in California. As this was a light snow year, the ice was pretty hard, bergschrund open and amazing. Smoke from a forest fire killed some views to the south and of the Clark Range.
trip report is here.
Image gallery is here.
Bob Burd - Aug 20, 2001 9:24 pm
Route Climbed: Ritter Glacier Date Climbed: Oct. 10, 1998This was a weather-perfect dayhike from Agnew Meadow in a time of 9h40m. Trip Report