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Mount Ritter Climber's Log

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lukenhamptonSE Glacier from Ediza  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009


Climbed with 5 others from Lake Ediza. We had great weather and amazing views from the top.
Posted Jan 4, 2010 1:37 pm

Princess ButtercupNorth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008

Princess Buttercup

From Banner, then descend the SE couloir
Posted Nov 30, 2009 11:35 pm

thexcatSE Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2009


Two weeks earlier, attempted and failed dayhike with Mark. Had a strong desire to return and summit this peak before the dry season ended.

Left postpile camp and started from Agnew Meadows TH at 4am with Raj. Light snow for first 2-3 hours wasn't reassuring, but cloud cover cleared a bit and the day remained very windy and dark clouds returned later. From Ediza Lake we scrambled up a bit too soon (before the more direct grassy ledges) but eventually made it to bottom of glacier. Threw on our crampons for 100-200 yard section and summited at 1pm. Not fast time, but happy to be on summit. Back at car at 9pm. Epic. Made it to Mountain View by 4am.
Posted Oct 5, 2009 1:27 pm

Vertigo soulN Face direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2009

Vertigo soul

Last minute solo trip, and well worth it. Climbed up to the R/B col from Ediza and summitted via the classic Muir chute. Descended Owens chute off SE face. Great climb and probably one of the better views I've seen in the Sierra.
Posted Sep 20, 2009 5:07 pm

xharvWest Slope from Ritter Lakes (again)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2009


Four hours to the top from Lake Catherine, with Denny. Some snow/ice still on the west slope, covering the entrance to the ramp between lower and upper bowls, and partially obstructing the upper bowl. What is a class-2 route under ideal conditions, thus necessitated some simple class-3 moves this time. Back the same way. Went on to solo climb Mt. Davis, next door, later in the afternoon. Trip report.
Posted Sep 13, 2009 3:50 pm

Bill KishSE Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2009

Bill Kish

A straightforward scramble and snow climb from Ediza with Kimberly. The glacier is mellow but the location is wild. Gorgeous summit views.
Posted Aug 17, 2009 1:30 pm

cjrandallClyde Variation sufferfest
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2009


Originally planned to be a three-day adventure, we headed home a day early after getting off the planned route and wandering into the Clyde Variation. We climbed up the southernmost gully through solid snow and left the gully late, and didn't want to descend, to struck off across the snow bowl high. Climbed up the snow chute between the Ritter pinnacles, and encountered bulletproof ice and loose snow. Thinking I could get across the loose snow to the Southeast Glacier, I attempted the traverse and fell about 50 feet to the rock face and loose crud below. Was fortunate not to be hurt by hitting the rocks with my feet in front of me. Sufficiently sketched out enough to gingerly descend the loose rock to the more solid snow below and loop around the pinnacle and out following existing climbers' boot prints in the snow. Next time, we'll avoid the Clyde Variation and stick to the normal route!
Posted Aug 4, 2009 6:09 pm

TheRootsterfrom Lake Ediza  Sucess!


My first alpine mountaineering experience, with John, Marlene, and Michael, more than 30 years ago. Hooked me for life. John was my climbing mentor/guru...he could be a gruff teacher, but he knew his stuff. Died in a bicycle accident while still in his 20s. I still chat with him on top of every peak I climb. Happy Trails, buddy, wherever you may be.
Posted Jun 21, 2009 2:34 pm

brucegSE Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 1976


Climbed with Greg and Carl. 5 days into the JMT and we had climbed Lyell, Banner, and Ritter. Then 2 weeks of rain.
Posted Apr 24, 2009 8:24 pm

gjonbelaySE Glacier August 9 1998  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 1998


Climbed Ritter and Banner on the same weekend with the PCS.

Trip Report

Posted Mar 23, 2009 7:10 pm

snowflakeSolo North Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1992


Kinda a spur of the moment thing.
Posted Mar 13, 2009 12:40 pm

xharvWest Slope from Ritter Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2008


Class-2 all the way from the Upper Ritter Lake, if the right route is followed. Check the route description. No snow/ice encountered anywhere on the west slope this August. Conditions and classification could be different after a heavy snow winter. By the way, about eighty parties signed up SPS summit register thus far in 2008.
Posted Aug 28, 2008 4:07 pm

kevin trieuSE Glacier  Sucess!

kevin trieu

Lake Ediza is beautiful. This climb is where I first set my eyes on Pookie.
Posted Aug 27, 2008 5:08 pm

dpsiebert North Face  Sucess!


Climbed with Sierra Challenge folks. Beautiful area.
Posted Aug 23, 2008 4:37 am

ElwoodNorthface(r/h chute)/SE Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2008


Set-up basecamp at Ediza Lake for 2-nights, while enjoying the climb of Mt. Ritter via the northface, desending the S.E. glacier route. I then spent two days of cross-country travel over Iceberg lake, Cecile lake, & Minaret lake, with awesome views of the Minarets! Great 4-day adventure!
Posted Aug 4, 2008 8:20 pm

Sierra Ledge Rat1992: Solo N Face  Sucess!

Sierra Ledge Rat

Clyde variation
Posted Jul 17, 2008 11:23 pm

DigglerN face (Muir route) up, SE glacier down  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2008


Starting at 7.37 instead of 6.00 (from camp at Ediza Lake) like originally planned (stayed up & hung out with later than anticipated Dutch & Jim, whom I’d just met at the adjacent campsite- very cool guys) proved fateful, as I missed the return shuttle by ~1:50 (I could have spent less time at the summit- that, combined with the late start, would’ve made the difference). I am thus typing this entry at work the following day after approximately 1 hour of sleep since summit/return day yesterday (it’s going to be a long day).

Regardless, it was a beautiful day, despite the day prior having numerous hail/rain incidents, as well as rapidly-moving early morning clouds that initially caused me some concern.Oh yeah, there were TONS of mosquitoes too- I probably killed a few hundred of the little bastards myself. Horrific. Anyway, aside from the snow being quite soft, conditions were splendid. The area surrounding Ritter & Banner I believe to be one of the prettiest in the Sierra. Always a joy to be there.

The route that ol' Muir picked out was a gem- a steep N face climb up from the glacier, good exposure & quite enjoyable. A very nice way to follow in the footsteps of a legend. Summited at 12.44, staying until 13.29. Views up top were spectacular, particularly with everything higher up still having a mantel of snow. Great day.
Posted Jun 23, 2008 11:25 am

96avs01Slog from Minaret Vista  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2008


After the Memorial Day weekend snow left the high country dicey with 1-2+ feet of unconsolidated snow we opted for a super slog of Ritter from the locked gate at Minaret vista. Climbed the Clyde variation of the SE glacier route almost exclusively in snowshoes (based on our previous experience above the Hourglass Couloir on Mt. Dade a few days earlier), with the exception being the traverse of the SE glacier where we opted for crampons. Views were great, we didn't see another person from TH to TH, and even caught a ride from the Reds Meadow store manager back up the road to the gate. Great trip!

Trip Report
Posted Jun 6, 2008 7:37 pm

paisajeroamericanolong day hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2007


I think I took the Clyde Variation Route. There was some snow around, but it didn't slow me down too much. It was really cloudy during the approach, so navigation was a bit tricky. Great views once I finally made it to the top, as the skies cleared up in my honor. I think you can see Half Dome from the peak. The dog made it up as well. Bravo!
Posted Oct 17, 2007 11:53 pm

leftySE Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007


Soft snow conditions, no crampons needed for this afternoon climb.
Posted Sep 14, 2007 9:27 pm

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