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Mount Robson Climber's Log

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nuttelmcMount Robson  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2014
Successfully summited Mount Robson on 8/5/14 at around 7:30 am. Started at the Dome at 3:30 am, topped out on the Kain Face at 5:30 am. Descent took 4.5 hours, the Kain Face was pretty scary and soft/dripping! Day 1 - trailhead to the moraine (3 miles past Berg Lake); Day 2 - to The Dome via R-R col; Day 3 - summit then packed up and back to moraine; Day 4 - back to trailhead. Awesome adventure, we got lucky with the weather!
Posted Sep 2, 2014 6:38 pm

seanoSouth face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2014


Well, I *think* I summited...

Being solo, I took the direct finish (AI2-ish) to avoid crevasses, climbing into a white-out. I found some older tracks and what seemed like the high-point, then spent a scary couple of hours downclimbing the glacier and icefall in near-zero visibility. About 15h10 car-to-car, but it could have been much quicker in ideal conditions. Trip report.
Posted Aug 19, 2014 4:58 pm

dhsternDr, David H, Stern  Sucess!
Climbed in August 1955 with friends from the Bruin Mountaineers (UCLA) -- Ralph Kahl and Roy Bishop (both now deceased) and Jim Burrows (not from UCLA). Ascended 1200-foot packed snow wall northeast of summit. Arrived at summit at 4:30 PM. Descended the wall at night with green aurora borealis sparkling, and a red eclipsed moon (which can give you the exact date).
Posted Jun 15, 2013 1:43 am

chris_gouletRe: Dr, David H, Stern


Wow, this has to be the longest interval between summiting and posting on all of Summitpost! Congratulations! (59 years late.) Sorry but there was no lunar eclipse in Aug, 1955, so we can't find your summit date.

Posted Mar 6, 2014 12:15 am

bdynkinKain Face, ridge approach  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2011
Hiked to Berg Lake, next day to the Extinguisher tower campsites via fun seracs jumping. Next morning approached Mousetrap and did not like it. Continued to Robson-Resplendid Col and camped there. Climbed to the Dome via a spectacular knife-edge snow and rock gendarmes ridge. Next day climbed Kain Face in warm conditions with soft and sloppy snow: dubious protection, exhausting but easy climbing. Summited around 1pm. No ice on the summit “roof” due to high snow year. Rappelled Kain face in the afternoon when the face was in the shadow. Continued warm temps made the return via the Robson-Resplendid ridge scary. Weakened snow bridges on the glaciers were also problematic. Went as a team of 5 (2 rope teams), all summited!
Posted Sep 13, 2011 10:17 am

klwagarlittle robson
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2010


Got as far as Little Robson up the SSW route. Ice seracs crashing down, lots of rain, little visibility, and the ledges were horribly wet and icy. All decided to wait another day.
Posted Aug 15, 2010 4:34 pm

FlatheadJimRobson / Kain Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2002


Heli into Rearguard Meadows and walked through the mousetrap to the Dome on Day 1. On Day 2, up at 0230, on top by 1100 or so and back to the Dome, totally beat, by 1700.

The day dawned clear, but complete whiteout on top.
Posted Jul 3, 2009 4:48 pm

Brad MarshallBad Weather
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2007

Brad Marshall

Poor weather prevented an ascent of either the North or Kain Faces. Tent bound for three days allowed plenty of time for reflection on the decisions we made.
Posted Aug 28, 2007 7:34 pm

chris_goulet22-Year Mount Robson Dream Comes True (Kain Face)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2006


Mount Robson infected me on first sight. It soon became obvious that climbing her is far more difficult and hazardous than any mountain I had ever experienced. Over the years, it was one humiliating defeat after another. Thus the notoriously low summiting rate for attempts on Robson: only 10%. Mount Robson became a state of mind, an obsession. I did some 'side trips' for training, like climbing beautiful Mount Resplendent, Robson’s neighbour. After three weather days on the Dome, it was a dream come true! Six expeditions and endless training and preparation paid off to realizing the hardest, finest, most mind-blowing climb of my life. Also see the trip report: "22-Year Mount Robson Dream Comes True"
Posted Sep 29, 2006 11:58 pm

jpleonhardNorth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2003


Climbed the North Face with K. Sorenson, T. Haines, and C. Coulson. We even decided to spend a few nights on top. (see mtnman455's trip report)
Posted Sep 13, 2006 4:16 am



A great lesson. even though is a "low" mountain the weather patterns are similar to Aconcagua or other high peaks.
Posted May 22, 2006 3:53 am

Dow WilliamsRoute Climbed: Kain Face, Alpine IV Date Climbed: September, 1998  Sucess!

Dow Williams

This mountain was my introduction to the great Canadian Rockies. We formed a party of 4, 2 Alaskans, 1 climber from Georgia and myself from Nevada at the time. I made the horrible mistake of wearing plastic boots with a 60lb pack the whole way. Needless to say, my heels became hamburger during this trip. By the time we made it to the Dome through the Mousetrap Icefall after two nights of camping en route, we were in all out blizzard conditions. We got the tents up and did not set our watch alarms as we assumed we would be weathered in for at least a day. However, I first awoke to an incredible sunrise over a total cloud cover right below us, surreal scene. The GA climber bowed out for the summit attempt, but the rest of us jumped at the opportunity to throw our crampons and ice axes on and hit the 1000'+ ice wall. We then followed the SE approach to the summit. We returned to the Dome victorious, slept a little and then came all the way out the next day. We came off via the SE ridge, which required quite a few rappels and down climbing. We took 22 hours to arrive back at the parking lot. I revisited the Robson Glacier in April 2003. My wife and I snow shoed up to the Berg Lake cabin. We spent 2 nights at Berg Lake without a soul in sight and had a great wildlife experience. We had lunch at an ice cave in the glacier. This is a great mountain and park.
Posted Jul 12, 2004 4:35 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: SSW Ridge Date Climbed: July 1977  Sucess!
Highlight of a summer in the Canadian Rockies living,and climbing, out of an old Volkswagon van with my old friend Sheldon (R.I.P.)
Posted Dec 16, 2003 6:45 pm

Zhenya77Route Climbed: Kain Face Date Climbed: August 19, 2003


After a day hike through the beautiful the Berg Lake trail and a traverse of the Robson Glacier our climbing party of three finally reached the bottom of the dome. On the next morning to all our surprise the sky cleared, there was no wind and the visibility was perfect. It was a perfect summit day, which is pretty rare event for Mt. Robson. As most of you might know, Mt. Robson is famous for its terrible weather conditions even during the so called climbing season July-August. The pyramid looking top is almost always covered with some nasty clouds. We start to make our way through the top. It took us only two hours to reach the ridge and we continue to move along the southern ridge in accordance with the Kain Face Route description. Just below the 50 deg ice cliff my climbing partner did not feel well, so wee had to retreat. I was a little bit disappointed, since we misted a perfect summit opportunity, but over all I was very pleased to climb this magnificent mount. I enjoyed the trip even though we did not reach the summit.
Posted Oct 5, 2003 4:32 am

mtnman455Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: August 22, 2003  Sucess!


Climbed with T. Hains, J. Leonhard, C. Coulson, and myself, K. Sorensen. 5.4 to 5.6 rock moves and scree scrambling between Burg and Mist Glacier. No need to protect but scary with big packs and plastic boots. First third of face had great ice, good screw protection. Top two thirds was hard snow and ice covered rock. Couldn't protect with screws, only pickets which made progression slower. Rangers said it was a bad year. Got caught in earlier than expected storm. Couldn't find ridge to Kain Face. Spent two nights on top. Snowed about three feet during 40 hours on top. Bitter freezing temps. Finally had a clear day and made our way down dehydrated and hungry. Read full story in "Trip Reports."
Posted Sep 11, 2003 8:45 pm

jeffnRoute Climbed: Kain Face Date Climbed: August 29, 2003  Sucess!
Mousetrap on the way up was more interesting than dangerous, as it is portrayed. The way down was a different story but the Serac Fall missed us.
Posted Sep 7, 2003 6:10 pm

azalea4460Route Climbed: Kain Face Date Climbed: August 15, 2003  Sucess!


In a long day, we climbed from Rearguard Meadows through the Ice Fall to the Dome, then waited for 2 days in fog and low clouds staring at parts of the Kain Face hoping for a break in the weather. Finally, it began to clear on the 3rd afternoon and we started for the top at around 2 the next morning. The Kain Face was a fabulous 6-pitch climb up snow and ice to the ridge, delicate ridge walk, and then more climbing to the final summit ridge. Wonderful climb when the weather cooperates. We climbed as 3 ropes of 3 to the top and down. Incredible mountain that has impressive size and utterly dominates the surrounding landscape of the Rockies.
Posted Aug 20, 2003 1:00 pm

ericdumeracRoute Climbed: F.A. Infinite Patience, Emperor Face Date Climbed: October 2002  Sucess!
A fantastic route of high quality compared to any of the sort worldwide. It had good rock, ice and pro. We had perfect weather and spent 3 days on the route. It will no doubt become a classic Grande Course route as the objective hazards are low and the climbing superb. Have fun, Eric.
Posted Dec 19, 2002 12:47 am

mountrobsonRoute Climbed: SSW Ridge Date Climbed: August 28ish,1999  Sucess!


Mountain of my dreams for years. Went up to the RF hut with 3 friends lookin' to do the Wishbone -- didn't happen. Spent the next four days trying to get up the SSW Ridge, but kept being pushed back by absolutely rotten weather. Only got as high as Little Robson. On the day we were going to descend, the clouds pushed on off and revealed a beautiful day. Late tho' it was, I had to give her a try. My buddies descended to the trailhead and I left the hut alone at 9:15a.m.!! (Great "alpine start", eh?!?) The route went quickly; getting over the Schwartz Ledges was a bit tricky, but other than that, no problems. I wound through the seracs at the top of the ridge rather than traverse across the Roof -- we'd seen the entire S face swept by an avalanche just two days earlier. Made the summit about 3:30, took some pics, smoked a Drum, and descended. Got back around 7:30. What an epiphany -- Mount Robson....solo !!!!
Posted Sep 26, 2002 5:16 am

alanRoute Climbed: Kain face Date Climbed: Aug 12/01  Sucess!
We lucked out with the weather which was excellent for the 6 days we were on the mountain. Day one we registered and backpacked to Berg lake. An excellent and scenic route. Day two was a short day to the bivvy site below the extinguisher. We wanted to avoid traversing the icefall in mid-day. Day three we ascended to a camp on the dome. The snow in the icefall was good and the hazard only bad for about 15 minutes, but definitely not a place to linger or to be in during the hot part of the day. Day four we left camp at 3:15 am and almost immediately were struggling with the bergschrund. Once we got across the schrund the Kain face was steep but not extreme and the ridge above was easier. We summited at 7:20 am in a cold wind. The descent was uneventful other than the jump across the schrund but the snow was already getting soft on the Kain face. We were prepared to wait until evening at the top of the face but our early start and early descent time got us down safely. We were back in camp by 11:00am and watched avalanches all day on the faces left and right of the Kain face. The route is not as difficult as the crux on the N. face of Athabasca, more like the Skyladder on Andromeda but it does require constant care and would be a nightmare in soft snow conditions. The trip down through the icefall was unpleasant(we left at 6:30am) as snow melt and a warm night left us sinking beyond our knees, many crevasses were now wider and we punched through some snowbridges.

We camped at the emperor campsite and backpacked out next day. A great peak and a great route.
Posted Jan 26, 2002 7:18 am

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