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derbillyRoute Climbed: Hotlam-Bolam Ridge Date Climbed: August 16, 2001  Sucess!


We arrived at the trailhead at 6:30PM, hiked up to base camp and slept beneath the stars. Woke up at 3:30AM and started up. We passed by a guided climber on the way up and were the first to make it to the summit that day. The views were mostly obscured by the dense wildfire smoke, but we could spot Lassen Peak, which we summited two days later. Made it back to the trailhead by 6:30PM for a 24 hour climb.
Posted Feb 24, 2004 4:28 pm

SoloRedRoute Climbed: Casaval Ridge Date Climbed: June 23-25, 2003  Sucess!
Climbed the route over 3 days in order to acclimatize before taking some friends on the north siide. It was challenging the first day going over some of the lower gendarmes with a full pack (skipped a few of the hardest ones); bivvied at the last flat spot, at 12000'. Gorgeous weather the following morning for the rest of the climb - the Catwalk was fun, as was climbing the rime on the pinnacle that tops the ridge. Continued the fun by going around the N side of Misery Hill on the steep upper firn of the Whitney Gl. in order to gain the summit plateau. Descended the ridge to my bivvy and had another beautiful night out. Not another soul on the ridge the whole time...
Posted Jan 27, 2004 2:33 pm

Sam MillsRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: May 1995  Sucess!

Sam Mills

Solo climb on my first time up this peak.
Posted Jan 24, 2004 2:10 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 1978  Sucess!
Skied from near the summit down to the parking lot. Awesome!
Posted Jan 23, 2004 4:07 pm

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: Casaval Ridge Date Climbed: January 17, 2004
Climbed Casaval Ridge in a day with Divesh. Got about 1/3 up Misery Hill and turned around due to late hour and general lack of motivation to sign the register one more time. Beautiful weather and overall perfect conditions. We met 5 other people on the route.
Posted Jan 18, 2004 11:26 pm

Dave DinnellRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: May 1986  Sucess!

Dave Dinnell

Attempted Cascade Gulch in August 1982 and encountered deteriorating weather conditions. This time I tried Avalanche Gulch. Packed for an overnighter but again encountered a weather system so boogied up and down in 10 hours.
Posted Jan 8, 2004 8:07 pm

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: Hotlum Glacier Date Climbed: August 4, 2002  Sucess!
My first real mountaineering experience. Awesome route. We had great weather going up. By the time we got to the summit we were in a whiteout and it started snowing. On the way down we were in a blizzard with gusts of wind reaching 40-50 mph and visibility less than 20' at times. Good learning experience.
Posted Jan 3, 2004 12:28 am

Sock MonkeyRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 2, 2003  Sucess!

Sock Monkey

Great conditions and Great weather - Easy route but a lot of fun!
Posted Dec 28, 2003 6:01 pm

kovarpaRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!


Really enjoyed it - why else would we do it, right? But I hated the scree on the way down... next time I am going only when there is snow.
Posted Dec 23, 2003 12:41 pm

scottfromcaliRoute Climbed: Wintun ridge to wintun glacier variation Date Climbed: June 20, 2000  Sucess!


Wow, what a mountain!! This was an amazing trip for me. I had finally climbed higher and longer than I ever had. This was one of the most demanding things I have ever done but well worth the suffering. The Wintun glacier route is fairly easy until you hit the glacier itself then it is 1100 ft of 45-55 mixed hard ice and snow and a quick scramble to the summit pinnacle. A slight case of AMS, likely thanks to our SWS mountain goat of a guide, I returned to our camp and immediately felt better. A long car ride out from the trail head and we were at the hotel lounging in the hot-tub.
Posted Dec 12, 2003 12:42 pm

eckdoerryRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: August 1997  Sucess!


A great climb for beginners: took a group of novices up during great weather. The icy chute up through the redwall was exciting for all. Windy on top of course. The glissade down the snowfield was a hoot.
Posted Nov 28, 2003 12:36 pm

Scott PierceRoute Climbed: Hotlum-Bolam Date Climbed: June 1997  Sucess!

Scott Pierce

Climbed once in June 97, and twice in July 97.
Posted Nov 3, 2003 8:40 pm

dvsanbtRoute Climbed: avalanche gulch Date Climbed: june 4, 2003  Sucess!


lots of soft snow - right from the parking lot. camped at (where is?) lake helen. early next morning, the snow had hardened enough to use crampons (much better than postholing mid calf deep as the day before). great views of the glaciers from the top. was fun glissading back (glissaded almost the whole way back to the horse camp - as much as the soft afternoon snow would allow).
Posted Oct 12, 2003 5:57 pm

Mike SullivanRoute Climbed: Cassaval Ridge Date Climbed: July, 1989  Sucess!

Mike Sullivan

On a warm day in July we started out of the parking lot before dawn. The conditions looked quite good and we opted to hike the Cassaval Ridge route. As the sun came up we were quite happy for our decision, as we watched Avalanche Gully fill up with people. Doing the summit pyramid was a rush....!!! and then we descended Avalanche Gully with a retreat to Shasta City for the Buffet Dinner there. A wonderful, and high milage day.
Posted Oct 10, 2003 5:47 pm

Jeff HRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: September 28th, 2003  Sucess!
Climbed to Helen Lake on Sat. with my brother and camped under a sky full of bright stars. Heard rock fall most of the night so decided not to start climbing until sunrise. Chose the snow field (what remained of it) to the left of the heart and made the summit by 10:00am. Only people we saw were three climbers heading up misery hill on our way down. Awesome weekend!
Posted Oct 8, 2003 10:19 am

GuiltyRoute Climbed: Sargents Ridge Alternative Date Climbed: 09/20/98 and 05/12/01  Sucess!


Both times I went up with a friend. One time a my friend got sick. So I soloed to the top in a freak hail storm. The other time we hit a storm on top where we couldn't even walk. We had to crawl above Red Bluffs. I can see why John Muir went to the steam vents to stay warm.
Posted Oct 8, 2003 12:04 am

rgreeneRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: 1 September 2003  Sucess!


Pretty much the end of the season, snow ascent to the right of the heart, we opted for the third chimney up through the red banks (all on loose scree). Six people summitted on that day, and we saw them all! Hung out at the top for about 30-45 mins and enjoyed a nice glissade down to Helen Lake after! Trip Report and Pictures
Posted Sep 29, 2003 11:10 pm

OtomaxRoute Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: June 14, 2002  Sucess!


A lot less crowded than Avalanche Gulch
Posted Aug 20, 2003 7:35 pm

Mark Van GilderRoute Climbed: East side Date Climbed: 19 Sept 2001
Climbed the east side. Did not summit due to hitting exposed ice @13700' with no belay equipment. Still a great 2 days on the mountain.
Posted Aug 16, 2003 12:55 am

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: Casaval Ridge Date Climbed: July 13, 2003  Sucess!
Another single day solo climb. It was full moon, so I started early. Left Bunny Flat at 10:30 pm on Saturday. Perfect conditions, didn't see anyone else on the route. There was strong wind above 13,000', probably about 40 mph. I summited at 7:45 am on Sunday. Found a perfect, sheltered from the wind and very comfortable spot on the summit and enjoyed it for about 45 min. Came down Avalanche Gulch and got back to the car at noon.
Posted Aug 6, 2003 11:25 pm

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