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Bob BoltonRoute Climbed: Avy Gulch Date Climbed: July 3, 2004  Sucess!

Bob Bolton

Dean Molen and I hiked in to 50-50 camp and had the place to ourselves while a steady stream of folks headed on up to Helen Lake. For the life of me I can't understand why hauling the heavy pack higher is somehow more desirable. What's wrong with the "least total (reasonable) effort" theory of approaching summits? Especially when less effort means a much more desirable camp experience! Anyway, on Saturday morning we used a leisurely pace, starting at 3:30 and summitting at 11:00. Clouds formed while we were approaching and on the summit, provided cool protection from the sun for the descent. We climbed Mt. Eddy on Sunday and Lassen Peak on Monday before heading home, for an enjoyable four days in Northern California.
Posted Jul 7, 2004 1:07 am

CornvallisRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: July 4, 2004  Sucess!


Shelby and I left Corvallis early Saturday morning and were in the city of Mt. Shasta by 11:00. Grabbed a few things at the Fifth Season and some grub from the Mtn. Café and headed up to Bunny Flat. We reached Lake Helen by 6:30 PM and were still able to find a nice spot. Crowded but not as bad as I thought it would be. Woke up the next morning at 3:00. Unfortunately, I mild case of altitude sickness, and an poor decision the prior night to dine on reconstituted spicy peanut tai forced Shelby to stay at camp. Shelby wanted me to summit......and so did I, so I headed off at 5:20AM. Summited by 9:15 and back to camp by 11:00 happy to join Shelby again for a quick rest. Climbed up the first chute to the right of the Heart. Once through the Red Banks, I felt the hardest (most tiring) part of the climb was over. Misery Hill didn't live up to its name thankfully. Enjoyed some nice glissades almost all the way back to the Sierra Club hut. Beautiful weather, mountain, and climbing partner, wish you had been there with me. Broke camp by 12:30 and were back in Corvallis in time to get some ice cream and watch the fireworks.
Posted Jul 6, 2004 2:26 am

PawkalaRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gluch Date Climbed: June 20, 2004  Sucess!


What a beautiful mountain. Went with a party of 4 and camped at Lake Helen on the 20th. Had perfect weather. Left for the summit at 3am and reached it in 5 hours. We were the first group to get the beginning of Summer 2004 view from the top. A wonderful way to celebrate Fathers Day. Looking forward to future trips with my son. Glasade down was sketchy near the Red Banks and awesome further down. A definite must do peak.
Posted Jul 1, 2004 10:09 pm

mrolphRoute Climbed: Hotlum-Bolam Ridge Date Climbed: June 26, 204  Sucess!


A great climb as part of a mountaineering/glacier travel class. For a little extra fun, we crossed the bergshrund on a snow bridge rather than traversing around.

Also: 3 summits via Avalanche gulch and one climb of the West Face Gully (turned around at 13,800 feet due to high wind).
Posted Jun 28, 2004 4:27 pm

fuglaRoute Climbed: Avalance Gulch Date Climbed: June 28, 2004  Sucess!
Started out from Helen Lake at around 4:30 am. Good snow/ice conditions, and hardly any wind. Wonderful climb in gorgeous weather, and - as expected - VERY crowded.
Posted Jun 28, 2004 4:21 pm

bobpickeringRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 29, 2003  Sucess!


I've climbed Shasta 30 times, including at least one solo day-trip in each month of the year. I never get tired of climbing Shasta! On June 29, 2003, I set out from Bunny Flat to see whether I could improve on my previous best time. I wore stiff ice climbing boots and carried ski poles. I didn't use the crampons and ice axe I strapped on my pack. I took a quick break at Helen Lake. At Red Banks, I took another quick break, stuffed some food in my pocket, dropped my pack, and pushed hard the rest of the way to the summit. The wind was probably 40-50 MPH on the Football Field, but I made it in 3:54 from the car. It took 29 minutes from Red Banks.
Posted Jun 21, 2004 3:47 pm

pjc30943Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: June 19, 2004  Sucess!
Completed West Face Gully in one day starting 1am, with dkantola from SP. The weather was clear and warm, while snow conditions were really nice (especially further into the night).

I got AMS for the first time near 9.5k, and it got pretty bad as we got higher--but David was a great trip leader: patient and understanding.

No high winds anywhere, just some gentle gusts out on the snow, and somewhat stronger near the summit. Nice glissading (and crowds) on the way down AG. It was a clear warm day, though clouds made their move back in during the early afternoon. The WF is a great route!

See dkantola's entry below for his take.
Posted Jun 20, 2004 10:12 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: West Face Gully Date Climbed: June 19, 2004  Sucess!


Met up with SPer pjc30943 for West Face Gully in a day. We had great weather with warm temps and little wind despite some cumulus buildup in the afternoon. There were only a few other people on the route. Snow conditions were excellent, particularly compared to Avalanche Gulch which had dirty snow, massive suncups, some thin snowcover, and rocks littering the surface. We glissaded AG from 12700 ft down to 8500 ft.
Posted Jun 20, 2004 8:00 pm

Rick KentRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 13, 2004  Sucess!

Rick Kent

Did the climb in a day. Left Bunny Flat just after midnight. Arrived at summit about 9:00am. Heavy wind and reduced visibility due to blowing clouds caused most climbers to hold up near Thumb Rock for at least an hour until things cleared up. Though the clouds did pass, the wind never did let up. Had a tough time staying on my feet. Glissading up higher below the Red Banks was difficult due to hard snow. It was better near Helen Lake though it was too soft down lower. Returned to trailhead at about 1:30pm.
Posted Jun 15, 2004 7:36 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: Hotlum-Bolam Ridge Date Climbed: June 12, 2004  Sucess!


After a failed two day attempt two weeks earlier due to AMS, we returned to try the route in one day. Clouds threatened in the morning, but as it turned out the weather was perfect. At the summit we saw parties coming up all sides of the mountain. It felt so nice to carry a light pack and not feel the altitude at all.
Posted Jun 13, 2004 8:39 pm

Shaun MatyasRoute Climbed: The West Face Gully Date Climbed: June 3, 2004  Sucess!

Shaun Matyas

This day was near perfect, good weather, company, route, and a summit bid. Blessed be God!
Posted Jun 11, 2004 3:09 am

lostmanRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 2001  Sucess!


Camped at Helen Lake. Very tough climb, but so worth it.
Posted Jun 9, 2004 3:25 pm

Peak FreakRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: June 2, 2004  Sucess!

Peak Freak

Went down to Horse Camp on Tuesday a.m. to meet Ellen & Aaron and take them up to Helen Lake. Was feeling much better about the altitude by this time. The long weekend hoards were gone, and we made friends with the few who were going to climb on Wednesday. Fellow SP'er Dave joined our party, and the four of us, along with two boarders, Jay & Randy, set off alone for the Summit at around 3:30 a.m.. Hit the summit at 8:23 feeling happy and strong.
Posted Jun 6, 2004 2:57 am

Peak FreakRoute Climbed: Casaval Ridge Date Climbed: May 31, 2004  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009

Peak Freak

2004: Fellow SP'er Shannon Skelton met me on the mountain and led the way on the Casaval Ridge Route Monday morning. Conditions were great for this time of year. We made it to, up, and past the catwalk no problem. We were the only ones on this route, and could see swarms heading up Avalanche Gulch. Took AG down to camp at Helen Lake. Met up with newly befriended climbers on the summit, and as we were coming down. Was slowed down by the altitude on the way up, but had a fantastic day & really enjoyed the route.

2004: Did the Avalanche Gulch Route a couple days later with Aaron & Ellen.

2009: Went back and did Hotlum Bolam Ridge with Julia. We were the only ones on the mountain.
Posted Jun 6, 2004 2:52 am

KingkongRoute Climbed: Hotlum-Bolum Ridge Direct Date Climbed: May '04  Sucess!


Going up the ridge on the rocks makes the route all the more fun...even found a great rock/snow pitch
Posted Jun 5, 2004 1:54 am

mtnhiker13Route Climbed: Av Gulch Date Climbed: June 2, 2004  Sucess!


What to say? What a great mountain - my favorite!

I had wanted to climb this mountain since I first saw it in 1983. Well 21 years later.....

The trip back to CA has been great and the mountain lived up to expectations. The snow was great despite what Aaron says.

Posted Jun 3, 2004 2:07 pm

Jeff HRoute Climbed: Casaval Ridge Date Climbed: May 16th, 2004  Sucess!
Great partners, great weather, great route.
Posted May 27, 2004 12:18 am

dankrasRoute Climbed: Sargents Ridge Date Climbed: April 14, 2002  Sucess!


Summit in two days; both great.
Posted May 24, 2004 2:21 am

kasibellaRoute Climbed: Avalanche Gulch Date Climbed: May 1, 2004  Sucess!


This was my first mountain, but my boyfriend was a first-rate teacher and climbing partner!

Managed to get through the classic altitude sickness symptoms that were badgering me and finally bagged my first peak at around 8am in the morning. The winds were pretty harsh on the way up from the red banks, but the sun and the happiness of finishing made for a warm descent down.

A lot of things can make you holler, but standing on top of this big mountain is something that can make you silent. It was an awesome experience in a truly beautiful place.

Thanks B for everything.

Posted May 18, 2004 1:40 pm

HammerRoute Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: 5/15/2004  Sucess!


After recovering from my 250' fall on the approach to Hidden Valley, my group and I ascended the West Face. Throughout the ascent, we were continually faced with the decision to move upwards due to haphazard periods of low visibility. As we continued up the face, weather seemed to improve and the outlook was turning more promising. Our group summitted within 1/2 hour of each other. On the descent, visibility decreased considerably as we came back across the summit plateau. Following well worn boot path made the trip easy and periodic breaks in the clouds allowed us to get our bearings back to the top of the west face. Softening snow made the descent a little hairy as our crampons continually balled up. Eventually, glissading became our mode of transportation and we were afforded a great glissade of over 2000'. Some of our party had left snowboards around the 12000' level and made quick retreat back to camp. After another night in Hidden Valley we hiked out the following morning.
Posted May 17, 2004 3:09 pm

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