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Mount Shasta Climber's Log

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thundercloudAvy Gulch / Hotlum-Bolam  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2002

thundercloud

AG: One day scamper, <8 hours up, <3 hours down with a very wild and long glissade. Had pizza and beer, then drove back to Portland afterward. Silly.
HB: 6/2/02, cruised up in leisurely time. Route straightforward, a bit more interesting and less crowded than AG.
Posted May 25, 2007 5:36 pm

EverydayExplorerAG  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 24, 2007

EverydayExplorer

This was my second try after being literally blown off last time ie crampons over helmet. This time went much smoother with just a fair breeze and rolling foggy clouds. 10 hrs car to car, good time all around.
Posted May 25, 2007 1:48 am

HyadventureDay Hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2003

Hyadventure

After a unsuccessful attempt in August of 02 where my partner was nearly swallowed an avlanche in Avalance Gulch?? This time much better conditions, every step on snow, nice weather and a easy summit.
Posted May 22, 2007 2:56 pm

Matt WorsterShasta - AG  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 12, 2007

Matt Worster

4:30 am start, 12:15 pm summit, 3:45 pm return to Bunny Flat. Wind packed snow above Red Banks made the descent tough on the ankles as there was no digging in. Continuous glissade from Red Banks to the rocks above Helen Lake - no groove yet but there will be. Breey most of the day, and on the cold side.
Posted May 13, 2007 7:48 pm

SFMountaineerAvalanche Gulch
Date Climbed: May 5, 2007

SFMountaineer

Made it to Helen lake saturday, but fierce winds all night and into the next day unfortunately sent us home. Amazing experience and first time alpine climb, will attempt again this summer.
Posted May 7, 2007 1:12 pm

DuseksShastafication  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 29, 2007

Duseks

Epic descent, total whiteout, skied from thumb rock at 13k in zero visibility. Made it down to find my car's brakes were out... it turned out to by quite an action packed trip.

-Scotty
Posted Apr 30, 2007 3:53 pm

Peak_BaggerCasaval
Date Climbed: May 31, 2006

Peak_Bagger

Fun snow plow, so much snow it made the route pretty non technical.
Posted Apr 17, 2007 4:57 am

hikerbrianAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 28, 2006

hikerbrian

Very pretty mountain. Fun weather on Saturday (40 MPH winds, maybe 20 degrees, blowing snow and fog, 50' visibility), had to camp lower than we had planned because it was too windy to make it to Helen Lake. Then Saturday dawned clear and perfect. Straightforward climb via Thumb Rock; although snow sounded more hollow than I would have liked. We got off the mountain before it got very warm. The glissade down the Heart was awesome.
Posted Mar 20, 2007 12:25 am

ZzyzxCasaval Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 18, 2007
Winter ascent in a day from Bunny Flat with Diggler. About 16 hrs. round trip - lack of acclimatization and 1 hour of sleep definitely slowed us down. Perfect weather and condition on the route.
Posted Mar 19, 2007 6:33 pm

mow10Lightest 24 hours of the year  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2003

mow10

Starting under full moon at 2am up Av Gulch I did not need a headlamp at all. Summit 9am. Note to self: Stick to early season on the volcanoes as descending (or ascending) on volcanic scree sucks.
Posted Mar 17, 2007 6:33 am

Mescalito345Avalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006

Mescalito345

I've been to Shasta twice, in July 2005 and June 2006. The first time was with Sierra Wilderness Seminars, and the second time was with some friends from Las Vegas. Weather was good both times, although in June 2006 it was very windy between Helen Lake and Red Banks. Here are some pictures:

http://hong.smugmug.com/share/5vRMbTRHLtX9g

http://pkuroda.smugmug.com/gallery/1598686#77599659
Posted Mar 11, 2007 1:37 am

hockeymanMt Shasta  Sucess!

hockeyman

Avalanche Gulch - slog up the snow. Lightning on the summit - very scary. Summitted and got the hell out of there. Slept in a snow cave that night and came down the following morning.
Posted Mar 7, 2007 4:31 pm

lizrdboyHotlam Glacier Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 1999

lizrdboy

Success on the first try. The two following tries, Casaval Ridge in winter...not so much.
Posted Feb 23, 2007 3:18 am

highicethank you mt shasta!  Sucess!
shasta was my playing ground for many years. she kept me preped for other climbs around the states and the world. Just want to thank her for not killing me in the process. I did many trainings and shorter ice climbs on her and Shastinas flanks, as well as 37 summit ascents out of 42 attempts... almost every route and then some not in the guides. There's alot to do and when you feel you're experienced enough, throw out the guide and let your mind seek out the lines...they're there! I was also able to solo anything not requiring too much glacier travel and most of these in winter. Her ridges are super in winter and it's great 'cause you're alone...no crowds. She gave me the confidence to take on anything in climbing and life in general. I live elsewhere now, but hope those of you who are climbing her now will take care of her and protect her. Get solid on your skills before going to the next level, take her SERIOUSLY and hopefully you'll be able to look back and say thank you to her as well.
Posted Jan 30, 2007 6:54 pm

LCHotlum-Bolum Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2006

LC

What a great peak. Started climbing at around 3am and found perfect snow condition. The way down was a bit treacherous, but found a scree field to the west of the ridge and rode it to the snow field. Glissaded for about a quarter of a mile on the snow, and had a grand old time.
Posted Jan 12, 2007 3:50 pm

MtnAv8rEvery Year

MtnAv8r

Great time every time. Been up the Gulch so many times I cant remember. Took a nasty fall on July 4, 2001 solo climb from the middle of the heart and flew out into the gulch. Hard ice is slick and provides no purchase for self arrest. While engaged in my best rag doll impersenation, my crampons some how reached up and tore up my shoulder. Finally came to a stop just above Helen. Sustained concussion from ice bullock my head bounced off of. Dizzy and nauseous, I removed ice axe from right knee, applied first aid, and bled my way back to the car. Drove to Burger King in a daze, ate a Whopper and drove back to the bay area. The next day I decided to go to the emergency room, and my doctor told be I was stupid. But man, what a great time. Cant wait to go back again this year. Casaval in Winter, Solo. Now that sounds fun.
Posted Jan 6, 2007 10:13 pm

laureljarndtHotlum Headwall  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2004

laureljarndt

Parked at Brewers Creek and walked into trailhead. GPS'd our entrance gully in case we descended in dusk. Headed straight up around to the first rockband. Proceeded to set up camp, giggle and sip schnapps. Unfortunately a stumble out of the tent resulted in breaking my toe. Woke up in am, stuffed it into boot and proceeded up to second camp at 10,500. Set off for ice route and summit in the am with the 800 feet of nice blue ice in front of us. All things are not what they seem, what looked like four hours of simulclimbing turned into 7 hours of pitching out and protecting bad ice. Summitted arounnd 1pm and headed down through the snow cupped and soft Wintum/Bolum route. Needed to traverse way over to find our camp..nothing like being able to see it but not reach it. Made camp by 3:30, quick break down and back out to car by 7pm. Toe was black and purple!
Posted Nov 20, 2006 2:37 pm

CBoldt1010Long Hike up!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 14, 2006

CBoldt1010

Made the mistake of not going to the upper camp Avy Gultch before starting our accent. It was a long day!
Posted Nov 16, 2006 8:27 pm

Clevelander22Avalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2005

Clevelander22

Camped at lake helen and summited around 9a.m. the next day. Beautiful weather! officially hooked on mountaineering!
Posted Nov 15, 2006 6:07 am

gregoryvAvy Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2006

gregoryv

Very warm day on Shasta
Posted Nov 2, 2006 5:47 pm

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