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Mount Shasta Climber's Log

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utclimberAvalanche Gulch
A very fun route. The glissade is particularly memorable.

Hiked a second time in winter, February 2008.
Posted Jan 12, 2008 7:46 pm

BonesawCasaval Ridge in Early Spring  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2004


Awesome climb! This was my first foray into the world of mountaineering and I'm hungry for more.
Posted Jan 11, 2008 9:12 am

jdmorrisMy Playground  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2007


2010 - 7/04 - Casaval
I finally make it up Casaval and experience the Catwalk. Despite the late season the world above 12.5k feet is solid rime ice. Glissaded Avy Gulch to descend.

2009 - 3/14 - Green / Sargent's
My first solo attempt of Shasta went poorly when my attempt was squashed by strong winds and extremely cold wind chill. At least I made it up to see Shatarama point from above. I'll be back.

2007 - 6/15 - Hotlum / Bolum
Mattyj and I headed up (actually down from WA, this time) to check out approaches to the north side of the mountain and ended up making a one day trip direct to the summit and back. Mattyj wrote all about it here. It was a flawless day on a fantastic route although the blue ice was a bit intimidating and the ice near the top of the route before attaining the summit saddle was a little rotten.

2007 - 4/05 - Casaval / West Face
Mattyj and I planned to start at Hidden Valley, but decided instead to head up further to First Window on Casaval and were met with thin looking snow conditions that led us back up the West Face, proper. Mattyj once again wrote all about it, here. Despite some low clouds on our approach day, the summit day was as good as it gets on any mountain, anywhere, and miraculously the mountain was beautifully devoid of other climbers!

2006 - 2/11 - Casaval:
My first time up on Casaval was a good time with Mattyj and Lessthanjoey and my buddy, Dan, but by the time we camped at 10,000 ft camp it seemed no one wanted to join me for a summit bid. I convinced Joe to get up relatively late and we headed up but had to deal with deep snow, cold wind and far too late of a schedule. Despite not summiting, it was still a beautiful couple days and Matt's picture from that trip is still one of my fav's.

2004 - 6/26 - Avy Gulch
Dan, lessthanjoey and myself all climbed Avy Gulch in a one day push. Unfortunately, I didn't sleep for the 30+ hours, prior. There was much adventure with my contacts turning opaque and getting stuck to my eyes and the resulting snowblindness of fiddling around in the bright noon sun for a couple hours, but we did make it to the summit and back to the car. As usual, it was a perfect, beautiful day.

2004 - 6/12 - West Face:
This was the inspiration for the second trip a couple weeks later. Dan and I carried way too much stuff up way too late in the day to Hidden Valley. It was a terrible slog without snowshoes and when I got sick just shy of Hidden Valley (not altitude, but some stomach trouble) we decided to turn back.

2003 - 7/20 - Avy Gulch:
This is where my whole mountaineering career started. My good friend Ken and I headed up to Lake Helen on a typical hot, sunny Shasta day and after an evening of camping we joined the hordes for a summit push. My HAFE (high altitude flatulence expulsion) started giving me trouble and I decided to wait at the summit plateau while Ken went to the summit. Many months of regretting tagging the summit on my first try pushed me to do lots of climbing and spend more time outdoors. Ahhh... the memories!
Posted Jan 8, 2008 11:36 pm

bighornmonkeyDone...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2004


Avalanche gulch route. Summit day was very windy
Posted Dec 25, 2007 5:00 pm

k2360tnfSummited  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006


Summited 2 days AG route
Posted Nov 6, 2007 6:06 pm

trailhuggersarahThe brown white Mtn  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2007


This was to be my first big snow climb.. only problem was a big lack of snow. It was mostly loose rock and just patches of hard old snow and ice.

Will definitely come back again next year in hopes of a 'snow climb'
Posted Nov 4, 2007 1:59 am

panweilinShasta via AG route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2005


Backpacked to Hidden Valley the day before. Raining at night and whiteout in the morning. We started 8am and soon the sky cleared up, went up to the summit, enjoyed sunset view at Hidden Valley before heading back to Bunny Flat TH.
Posted Oct 25, 2007 3:33 pm

leftyAvy Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006


This was my second attempt. I had to turn back at the top of Misery Hill tow years earlier so it felt good to make it all the way this time.
Posted Oct 25, 2007 12:23 am

gomez13Avy Gulch/West Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 15, 2002


Had so much fun going up the gulch with friends mid week {no crowds} I stayed and soloed the West Face a day after.
Posted Oct 20, 2007 11:01 am

tombcroninFun ride down!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2003


Came down super slushy chute: fun!!
Posted Oct 18, 2007 12:26 pm

hikerbryanAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2006


Hit the AVG early and made the summit late morning. Snow from the Bunny Flat parking lot all the way to the summit. Way better than scree and rocks. Perfect weather made for a perfect day on the mountain. Views were incredible.
Posted Oct 2, 2007 11:07 pm

hikineddAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2007


Fourth time up (all Avalanche Gulch). May 2003: bailed near the Heart for fear of avalanche. June, 2004: turned around at the top of Misery Hill from 60 mph winds and bigger gusts. June, 2006: finally made it for the first time. June, 2007: made it all the way second year in a row, this time in an incredibly low snow year. Trails I hadn't known to exist were exposed, including the ambitious half-mile long Olberman Causeway leading up the hill from Horse Camp, and switchbacks all the way up Misery Hill, making that part of the hike considerably easier. This is the first year we've camped on dirt at Helen Lake and filtered water from either a spring or snowmelt running through camp.
Posted Sep 5, 2007 12:53 am

A BitAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 1993

A Bit

Headed up from the old ski bowl area with 3 friends on a beautiful morning. 3 of us made the summit 8 hours later with clear skies and light winds.
Posted Aug 21, 2007 10:26 pm

pkrebsAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2006


A fun climb with a group of friends. We camped at Lake Helen and hit the summit in the morning.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 6:44 pm

YEMAvy Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2006


Car to car. Climbed the ridge to the right of Avy Gulch to the backside of the Red Banks and a glacial moat.Since I was solo, the mountain told me to stop, turn around and descend about 1000ft. I continue to the summit on the normal route. Calm at the Red Banks, but the wind above the false summit was enough to knock me over (50mph?). I climbed the final slope with my hands to the ground. What a view!
Posted Aug 20, 2007 4:57 pm

RockOnSummit for Someone  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2007


Did it for charity (Big City Mountaineers). Can't think of a better way. We stayed in Hidden Valley and did the west face to the summit. This is my first BIG mountain and it kicked my butt.
Posted Aug 15, 2007 8:56 pm

Sara_MatisseAlways something to offer  Sucess!


Have climbed Shasta via Casaval Ridge and the standard Avi Gulch. Casaval ridge is a true classic and must do. Avi Gulch always has something fun and interesting to offer... From scary rock/ice bombs buzzing your head in the dark - to someone with hug legs taking gigantic steps everywhere so you have nowhere to step...:)
Posted Aug 11, 2007 12:21 pm

mthilgard13Scott Harmstead  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2007


A long, very long, staircase to the top....suitable for one day.
Posted Aug 9, 2007 3:45 pm

kovarpaHotlum Left Gully  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007


with Miguel. Very windy, but a good, quick climb in less than ideal (not much ice) conditions.
Posted Aug 7, 2007 3:26 pm

forjanHotlum Left Gully Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007


Simulclimbed the Hotlum Left Gully Direct with kovarpa. Started out from our camp at 10,200' at ~ 3:30am. I dropped one of Pavel's short screws on the upper gully and lost an hour roundtrip as I had to downclimb 500 feet to retrieve it. Summited by 10am. Windy & chilly. Back at Northgate trailhead by 4pm. Absolutely awesome burgers & garlic fries at Billy Goats Tavern in town.

Route Climbed: Casaval Ridge
Day Climbed: April 8, 2007

My 3rd time day hiking Casaval Ridge. This time with Rick Kent in 12.5 hrs car-to-car. We started at 2:55AM from Bunny Flat and I summited at 11:50AM. Tough conditions (cold, windy & whiteouts). We encountered whiteout conditions several times that made us stop altogether and wait. In fact, I could have ended up yesterday as another mountaineering statistic. On the descent, I was stuck in a total whiteout while descending what I thought was Misery Hill. Turns out I descended to about 12,700' on the upper Konwakiton Glacier (east side of Shasta). If it wasn't for a clearing, I would have end up at Mud Creek Canyon and falling through a crevasse on the way probably. There was a skier, too, who was next to me but then disappeared from my view while on the whiteout. I later found out that his two other ski buddies were asking for him at Bunny Flat. They said that he was overdue. They called SAR.

Route Climbed: Casaval Ridge
Day Climbed: May 29, 2005

Great surface conditions on Casaval Ridge on May 29, 2005. Started hiking in at 2:30AM from Bunny Flat with awagher and Matthew Holliman. Hard snow crust.....cramponed up all the way to the summit. Matthew and I encountered 35-40mph wind with blowing snow that stinged once it hit our faces; also encountered white-out clouds (we could only see 50 yards ahead; had to stop a few times to wait for the less-than 5 second semi-clearing to get a quick glimpse where to move up next; in fact, we had to wait a few minutes so that I could see the Catwalk; same thing happened just after topping out Casaval. I told Matthew we have to stop right here because I was able to see the drop down to the Whitney Glacier. There we waited several minutes while being hammered by the winds until finally there was a clearing and I could see Misery Hill. From there on, it went smoothly. I reached the summit at 10:57AM with Matthew a few minutes behind as he went up one of those short south-facing chutes just below the summit. Saw only two other people at the top. We started down at 11:25AM. I glissaded from just below the Red Banks to within a few hundred yards of Lake Helen. Back at Bunny Flat at 1:50PM where awagher had beer waiting for us. Later met up with rhyang at Lalo's restaurant in town for an early dinner.

Route Climbed: Casaval Ridge
Date Climbed: May 30, 2004

After climbing Lassen Peak on Saturday 5/29/04 as a warm-up, I climbed Casaval solo in a day. I guess I was dragging *ss because it took me 10 hrs to summit. I left Bunny Flat at 2:30AM and made the summit around 12:30PM. Stayed there for 40 minutes just watching all the crowds. It was very windy for most of the route. In fact in the flat section just below Misery Hill, the wind almost knocked me off balance a few times. I left the summit at 1:10PM. I put my diaper trash bag around my butt just below the Red Banks and glissaded down to Lake Helen in like 20 minutes. It was a blast! Past Lake Helen, I continued glissading as much as I could. I got back to my car at Bunny Flat a few minutes past 3:30PM. Changed clothes and drove down to Lalo's for a mexican feast.

Route Climbed: Hotlum-Bolam Ridge
Date Climbed: June 15, 2003

A great north side climb of Mount Shasta. We were a team of 5: Mike (mdostby), Alex (agorokhov), Jim (jimconsid), Ralph and myself. We started the approach hike on Saturday June 14th and made camp around 10,100 feet. Got an alpine start next day at 3:00AM. Sunrise happened just around 12,000' as I waited for the rest of the team to catch up. All 5 of us summited on this beautiful Sunday morning. As compared to last year, this year I could clearly see Mt. McLoughlin all the way on the southern Oregon Cascades.

Route Climbed: Avalanche Gulch
Date Climbed: June 2, 2002

A very rewarding climb. Excellent day for it too. Hardly any wind at the summit, sunny, clear and plain nice. Made the summit at 9:15AM. On my way down as I was arriving back to camp in Lake Helen, I witnessed a helicopter landing on Lake Helen. Apparently, some climber dislocated his shoulder blade (or something like that) in attempt to self-arrest in the Red Banks area and was evacuated off the mountain by a CHP helicopter. I took pictures of the helicopter landing and taking off. I'll post them sometime here in the near future.

Posted Aug 6, 2007 1:29 pm

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