Mount Shasta Climber's Log

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shknbke

shknbke - May 27, 2008 2:35 pm Date Climbed: May 22, 2008

via AG dayhike  Sucess!

This was probably the toughest ascent I have ever done in terms of physical effort needed just to reach the summit. It took me a little over 9 hours to summit as a dayhike due to high winds above the Red Banks. I felt good prior to this point. I ended up traversing all the way left below the Red Banks to the last chute, which had a fair amount of thick ice that required some front pointing. On the way down we found the chute with the best conditions which was one to the right of the top of the Heart. The snow was too hard/sun cupped to glissade much.

panhandler

panhandler - May 16, 2008 7:48 pm Date Climbed: May 12, 2007

Casaval Ridge

Summited via Casaval Ridge. Had to traverse to the west face at the catwalk due to minimal snow on that part of the route. Camped two nights at the first window and had beautiful weather... although on the descent, after taking our time and still on the mountain @ 2pm, heard a WHUMP! while traversing the slope between WFG and our camp at the window. A little frightening!

gomez13

gomez13 - May 13, 2008 8:24 pm Date Climbed: May 10, 2008

West Face Gully  Sucess!

Second try on this route. Bad weather first time turned me back. Good weather and better conditioning was key this time. Also did Avy Gulch in 2002.

peakrat76

peakrat76 - Apr 23, 2008 1:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 1974

Avalanche Gulch  Sucess!

Solo climb up the standard route. Awesome peak - great views. Super glissade on the way down.

danman3156

danman3156 - Apr 17, 2008 10:01 pm Date Climbed: Apr 13, 2008

Great Ski Down  Sucess!

Skinned up under intense sunshine. Camped, summited and then skiied down. Awesome run, it goes on forever.

SillyUncleKarl

SillyUncleKarl - Apr 15, 2008 6:25 pm Date Climbed: May 10, 2007

Avalanche Gulch  Sucess!

I was planning to do one of the lesser used routes. But, being my first trip up, and solo, I stuck with the popular avalanche gulch route, 3:30 start. I was very glad I did. This is not a mountain to be taken lightly, heavy wind turned most back. The altitude hit most of the rest of us pretty hard. But very memorable!

ClimbingJunkie

ClimbingJunkie - Mar 30, 2008 10:40 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2006

My first 14er!!  Sucess!

Great two day ascent of my first 14er!! From Bunny Flat to Helen lake, then up and back to the car by 10am the next day! Awesome experience!

snowflake

snowflake - Mar 21, 2008 3:35 pm

Every month of year

Climbed in every month of the year (not all same year, though). October is the worst time as is very ICY on upper part of Hotlum/Wintun ridge(favorite route). Routes: AG, WG, Hotlum Glacier, Bolum Glacier, Hotlum/Bolum Ridge, Hotlum/Wintun Ridge.

dswink

dswink - Mar 9, 2008 7:38 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2007

Avy Gulch  Sucess!

Attempted Casaval Ridge in 4/2007 but turned around by weather.
Summitted via Avalanche Gulch in 5/2007.

Bombchaser

Bombchaser - Mar 3, 2008 3:29 pm Date Climbed: Dec 10, 2007

Casaval Ridge

Attempted to summit via Casaval Ridge. I started at the Bunny Flat Trailhead. Snowhoed to the Sierra Lodge/Cabin. Climbed the steep ridgling past the lodge up to the base of Casaval Ridge to 9800 feet. Had to turn back because critical gear left behind. Conditions were as follows; sunny, 50-100 mph wind gusts on ridgeline, ics covered scree on ridge, 10 inches to 2 feet of snow along route.

Ambret

Ambret - Feb 22, 2008 11:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2004

My Favorite Mountain  Sucess!

Summitted via Avalanche Gulch route on second try with college roommate/best buddy Rob. Great climb on a near-perfect day. This made up for our failed attempt three years before, when we turned back due to rockfall -- especially after watching someone almost take one in the face.

jimegan

jimegan - Feb 6, 2008 8:30 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2003

MT SHASTA  Sucess!

CLIMBED AS A PREP HIKE FOR RANIER WITH LVMC FROM BUNNY FLATS TH

Shirley Lam

Shirley Lam - Jan 30, 2008 10:18 pm Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2004

Better when...  Sucess!

the avalanche gulch is covered in snow!

utclimber - Jan 12, 2008 7:46 pm

Avalanche Gulch

A very fun route. The glissade is particularly memorable.

Hiked a second time in winter, February 2008.

Bonesaw

Bonesaw - Jan 11, 2008 9:12 am Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2004

Casaval Ridge in Early Spring  Sucess!

Awesome climb! This was my first foray into the world of mountaineering and I'm hungry for more.

jdmorris

jdmorris - Jan 8, 2008 11:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2007

My Playground  Sucess!

2010 - 7/04 - Casaval
I finally make it up Casaval and experience the Catwalk. Despite the late season the world above 12.5k feet is solid rime ice. Glissaded Avy Gulch to descend.

2009 - 3/14 - Green / Sargent's
My first solo attempt of Shasta went poorly when my attempt was squashed by strong winds and extremely cold wind chill. At least I made it up to see Shatarama point from above. I'll be back.

2007 - 6/15 - Hotlum / Bolum
Mattyj and I headed up (actually down from WA, this time) to check out approaches to the north side of the mountain and ended up making a one day trip direct to the summit and back. Mattyj wrote all about it here. It was a flawless day on a fantastic route although the blue ice was a bit intimidating and the ice near the top of the route before attaining the summit saddle was a little rotten.

2007 - 4/05 - Casaval / West Face
Mattyj and I planned to start at Hidden Valley, but decided instead to head up further to First Window on Casaval and were met with thin looking snow conditions that led us back up the West Face, proper. Mattyj once again wrote all about it, here. Despite some low clouds on our approach day, the summit day was as good as it gets on any mountain, anywhere, and miraculously the mountain was beautifully devoid of other climbers!

2006 - 2/11 - Casaval:
My first time up on Casaval was a good time with Mattyj and Lessthanjoey and my buddy, Dan, but by the time we camped at 10,000 ft camp it seemed no one wanted to join me for a summit bid. I convinced Joe to get up relatively late and we headed up but had to deal with deep snow, cold wind and far too late of a schedule. Despite not summiting, it was still a beautiful couple days and Matt's picture from that trip is still one of my fav's.

2004 - 6/26 - Avy Gulch
Dan, lessthanjoey and myself all climbed Avy Gulch in a one day push. Unfortunately, I didn't sleep for the 30+ hours, prior. There was much adventure with my contacts turning opaque and getting stuck to my eyes and the resulting snowblindness of fiddling around in the bright noon sun for a couple hours, but we did make it to the summit and back to the car. As usual, it was a perfect, beautiful day.

2004 - 6/12 - West Face:
This was the inspiration for the second trip a couple weeks later. Dan and I carried way too much stuff up way too late in the day to Hidden Valley. It was a terrible slog without snowshoes and when I got sick just shy of Hidden Valley (not altitude, but some stomach trouble) we decided to turn back.

2003 - 7/20 - Avy Gulch:
This is where my whole mountaineering career started. My good friend Ken and I headed up to Lake Helen on a typical hot, sunny Shasta day and after an evening of camping we joined the hordes for a summit push. My HAFE (high altitude flatulence expulsion) started giving me trouble and I decided to wait at the summit plateau while Ken went to the summit. Many months of regretting tagging the summit on my first try pushed me to do lots of climbing and spend more time outdoors. Ahhh... the memories!

bighornmonkey

bighornmonkey - Dec 25, 2007 5:00 pm Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2004

Done...  Sucess!

Avalanche gulch route. Summit day was very windy

k2360tnf

k2360tnf - Nov 6, 2007 6:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

Summited  Sucess!

Summited 2 days AG route

trailhuggersarah

trailhuggersarah - Nov 4, 2007 1:59 am Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2007

The brown white Mtn  Sucess!

This was to be my first big snow climb.. only problem was a big lack of snow. It was mostly loose rock and just patches of hard old snow and ice.

Will definitely come back again next year in hopes of a 'snow climb'

panweilin

panweilin - Oct 25, 2007 3:33 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2005

Shasta via AG route  Sucess!

Backpacked to Hidden Valley the day before. Raining at night and whiteout in the morning. We started 8am and soon the sky cleared up, went up to the summit, enjoyed sunset view at Hidden Valley before heading back to Bunny Flat TH.

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