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SchremppClimberAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009

SchremppClimber

Camped at Helen Lake and woke up at around 2am. We made our way up to the right of the Heart and through Red Banks. At around 10am, we made it to the summit. On our descent, we glissaded from the bottom of the Red Banks on a single slide which took us all the way to our campsite non-stop. All the suffering paid off right then and there.
Posted Jul 22, 2009 5:12 pm

requiem1st time success!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2009

requiem

day 1: drove up early Saturday to spend the day and night hiking around and acclimating an extra day, before attempting the Avalanche Gulch route. day 2: got up to Helen Lake and spent lots of time melting snow. slept early and got up around 2AM on day 3, ate and prepped gear to leave for a successful summit bid around 3:45 AM. snow coverage btwn Red Banks and the Thumb was thin so on Rangers' recommendation we ascended the third chute from the right in the Red Banks. weather was great, a bit windy up near the summit but nothing that kept us from topping out! long day though, as we hiked out and drove the 4+ hours home after summiting. good times.
Posted Jul 6, 2009 5:40 pm

zoinkBunny Flat > Avalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009

zoink

Got a late start ended up rather sick until 4:00 AM. Beautiful at the summit sunny and no wind. Lots of little sun cups but snow was solid in the early morning.
Posted Jul 5, 2009 10:08 pm

apachedinoHotlum-Bolum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2009

apachedino

Took the Hotlum-Bolum and were the only ones on the route for the start of a 8 day climbing trip that turned out perfect. Great snow conditions.
Posted Jul 5, 2009 2:43 pm

POLUKOTwo tries
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2009

POLUKO

I did two attempts in one week. First one I got turned around because of weather at red banks from horse camp. The second one I got to the top of misery hill from helen lake and turned back due to AMS. Still an awesome mountain and I will be back.
Posted Jun 25, 2009 3:02 am

justingHotlum-Bolam Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009

justing

My first but surely not last time on the mountain. Great climb with Rob and Anastasia.
Posted Jun 22, 2009 4:54 pm

skyward22solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 12, 2009

skyward22

Got disoriented on the approach in the dark--was heading for Cassaval ridge but accidentally gained the shoulder of green butte ridge. Summited via the Green Butte ridge and descended in 14 hours. Very, very windy day; had to hide behind boulders to avoid projectile icefall on the way up. Great climb with great snow conditions, although saw some old avalanche slide paths on the way down.
Posted Jun 21, 2009 2:16 am

TheRootsterAv Gulch / Hotlum-Bolam

TheRootster

First time with Barbara and Arnie via AG, summited after light snowfall. Second time with Carter and Mark via AG (Left of Heart), great weather. Third time with Denise to Red Banks via AG, where her ankle gave out. Fourth time solo via Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, at the end of October (Halloween, I believe). Tried up and back in a day, leaving the car at 4:30am and heading up. Once I hit the snow I found perfect styrofoam! Patches of ice here and there, but nothing too worrisome. And nobody else was on the route! Felt as if I had paradise to myself for a day. Alas, on reaching the bench at 13K+ and looking up at the crux (the rock route didn't look too friendly, and while the traverse route looked as if it really amounted to one short pitch of steep, still, the exposure there is pretty dramatic), and suffering slightly from mild headache and queasiness, and with no one around should I biff, I decided to turn around and head back down. But altogether a most splendid day out! I recommend this route heartily, and I'd love to go back and take it to the summit some day.
Posted Jun 21, 2009 12:01 am

damgaardLong (and boring) snow walk up AG  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2009

damgaard

We we too lazy to carry tent and stuff up the mountain, so we made it in one shot from Bunny Flats. Started at 23, peaked Shasta 7.30. 100 m visibility, well until we passed the Heart on the way back, then it was all sunny again :(
Back at Bunny 12.15. A loooong snow slogging trip. Nice trip, but mountaneering wize not really that interesting.
Posted Jun 19, 2009 12:24 pm

snowclimber12west face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2009

snowclimber12

climbed the west face route, great conditions, solid snow and almost no wind great climb. Then we glissaded from the top of the west face down to hidden valley, quickest decent i have ever done and lots of fun.
Posted Jun 18, 2009 10:02 pm

Bruce ChristensenLucky  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2009

Bruce Christensen

NWS weather report looked pretty bad for last weekend, but we headed up anyway. Snow conditions were great on the way up to Helen Lake (consolidated, but not icy). Calm winds Friday night. Woke up at 1am to a whiteout. 2am snow showers. 2:30 clear skies, with the route beautifully lit by the moon.


Route was in good condition. Well-established boot track goes right of the heart and then up the right side of the Red Banks. Left the lake at 4am, summitted at 10:30 (I took up the rear of the group, so we were moving a little slow). Nice glissade on the way down after the Red Banks. Clouds moved in around 11 for whiteout conditions partway down. No lightning the whole trip; heard a couple of thunder rumbles from off in the distance.


There were 2-3 inches of fresh graupel above about 11k, which made the crampons less effective. Avalanche conditions weren't great; there was a a nice consolidated 6-inch crust over a weak layer in several places above the lake. I wouldn't want to be on the slab when it slides.


Things warmed up on the way down on Saturday, which was perfect for descent, but not so good for people coming up (sloshy, wet snow). It went from freezing sleet/snow at the lake on Saturday afternoon to a hot, sunny sauna in 15 minutes. Air temperature was probably 80 or 90 degrees for a while until the clouds rolled in again.


Weather is unstable right now, but you might get lucky like we did and catch a good window.
Posted Jun 15, 2009 6:15 pm

hillbasherHotlum-Wintun conditions?
Anyone have a recent conditionds report for this route? Thanks for any input.
Posted Jun 14, 2009 4:26 pm

dirthThe Mount Shasta Sauna  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2009

dirth

Climbed up to Helen Lake Sunday night, got up too early Monday and summited around 9:30. Was planning on snowboarding down so I took an hour nap around 13,800 feet to let everything soften up. Took 8 minutes to get from partway down misery hill to Lake Helen. The clouds were rolling in and it was uncomfortably hot and humid at Lake Helen, like being in a combination of a tanning bed and a sauna. Took 5 more minutes to get from Lake Helen to Horse Camp. It kills me at this point to do anything but ski descents.
Posted Jun 9, 2009 4:14 pm

McCannsterJohn Muir Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2009

McCannster

Summited via Avy Gulch with my friend Ben. Fun, exhausting climb. 12 hours roundtrip from Bunny Flat.
Posted Jun 3, 2009 1:07 am

Curtissimoicy on descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 26, 2009

Curtissimo

with early start comes icy descent, or late start brutal sun and easy descent. We chose the former!
Posted May 28, 2009 5:54 pm

Tom FralichCasaval Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 26, 2009

Tom Fralich

Left Horse Camp at 1AM and got to the summit at around 8:30AM. The route was not as technically interesting as I expected, but it sure was LONG. The walk across the crater tested my will to live. The descent went fast, despite the abundant post-holes. Back to Horse Camp at 11:30AM.
Posted May 26, 2009 5:40 pm

vanman798From Bunny Flat  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 23, 2009

vanman798

Did the 7,000+ vertical foot climb from Bunny Flat, up Avalanche Gulch, to the peak in just under seven hours. Skied down in about one hour from the base of Misery Hill via the Trinity Chutes, approximately 6,400 vertical feet of very nice corn snow.
Posted May 26, 2009 12:11 pm

BlackmouthCasaval Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 20, 2009

Blackmouth

This was my first time up Shasta and I was fortunate to be able to climb with Forjan & Mdostby, who have summited Shasta multiple times. We were the only ones on Casaval Ridge that day.Roundtrip was a few minutes over 12 hours. I look forward to climbing this route again.
Posted May 25, 2009 2:30 pm

bigstrazAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 8, 2009

bigstraz

Weather was WAY nice... to nice, I didn't bring anything short sleeved... 7 of us went to Helen Lake, 5 of us got out bed @ 1am and 3 of us made it to the top. PS ... got burned in places I didn't know I had... like in my ears!
Posted May 19, 2009 8:28 pm

peerzatcould've lit a match on the summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2009

peerzat

beautiful conditions on high. left bunny flats at 1130am. skinned up to Lake Helen on the 19th in great weather, almost too warm/soft to skin up by the end of the day. alpine start on the 20th, 430am, at a mellow pace to summit by 1100. could've lit a match on the summit. perfectly still, no clouds, about 50deg. skied down, bullet proof up top, avalanche gulch in perfect light corn making for really heavy snow down low after picking up camp and catching our breath. But, ya can't beat perfect conditions on the steeps! yow! excellent adventures.
Posted May 3, 2009 4:16 pm

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