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TheRootsterAv Gulch / Hotlum-Bolam


First time with Barbara and Arnie via AG, summited after light snowfall. Second time with Carter and Mark via AG (Left of Heart), great weather. Third time with Denise to Red Banks via AG, where her ankle gave out. Fourth time solo via Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, at the end of October (Halloween, I believe). Tried up and back in a day, leaving the car at 4:30am and heading up. Once I hit the snow I found perfect styrofoam! Patches of ice here and there, but nothing too worrisome. And nobody else was on the route! Felt as if I had paradise to myself for a day. Alas, on reaching the bench at 13K+ and looking up at the crux (the rock route didn't look too friendly, and while the traverse route looked as if it really amounted to one short pitch of steep, still, the exposure there is pretty dramatic), and suffering slightly from mild headache and queasiness, and with no one around should I biff, I decided to turn around and head back down. But altogether a most splendid day out! I recommend this route heartily, and I'd love to go back and take it to the summit some day.
Posted Jun 21, 2009 12:01 am

damgaardLong (and boring) snow walk up AG  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2009


We we too lazy to carry tent and stuff up the mountain, so we made it in one shot from Bunny Flats. Started at 23, peaked Shasta 7.30. 100 m visibility, well until we passed the Heart on the way back, then it was all sunny again :(
Back at Bunny 12.15. A loooong snow slogging trip. Nice trip, but mountaneering wize not really that interesting.
Posted Jun 19, 2009 12:24 pm

snowclimber12west face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2009


climbed the west face route, great conditions, solid snow and almost no wind great climb. Then we glissaded from the top of the west face down to hidden valley, quickest decent i have ever done and lots of fun.
Posted Jun 18, 2009 10:02 pm

Bruce ChristensenLucky  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2009

Bruce Christensen

NWS weather report looked pretty bad for last weekend, but we headed up anyway. Snow conditions were great on the way up to Helen Lake (consolidated, but not icy). Calm winds Friday night. Woke up at 1am to a whiteout. 2am snow showers. 2:30 clear skies, with the route beautifully lit by the moon.

Route was in good condition. Well-established boot track goes right of the heart and then up the right side of the Red Banks. Left the lake at 4am, summitted at 10:30 (I took up the rear of the group, so we were moving a little slow). Nice glissade on the way down after the Red Banks. Clouds moved in around 11 for whiteout conditions partway down. No lightning the whole trip; heard a couple of thunder rumbles from off in the distance.

There were 2-3 inches of fresh graupel above about 11k, which made the crampons less effective. Avalanche conditions weren't great; there was a a nice consolidated 6-inch crust over a weak layer in several places above the lake. I wouldn't want to be on the slab when it slides.

Things warmed up on the way down on Saturday, which was perfect for descent, but not so good for people coming up (sloshy, wet snow). It went from freezing sleet/snow at the lake on Saturday afternoon to a hot, sunny sauna in 15 minutes. Air temperature was probably 80 or 90 degrees for a while until the clouds rolled in again.

Weather is unstable right now, but you might get lucky like we did and catch a good window.
Posted Jun 15, 2009 6:15 pm

hillbasherHotlum-Wintun conditions?
Anyone have a recent conditionds report for this route? Thanks for any input.
Posted Jun 14, 2009 4:26 pm

dirthThe Mount Shasta Sauna  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2009


Climbed up to Helen Lake Sunday night, got up too early Monday and summited around 9:30. Was planning on snowboarding down so I took an hour nap around 13,800 feet to let everything soften up. Took 8 minutes to get from partway down misery hill to Lake Helen. The clouds were rolling in and it was uncomfortably hot and humid at Lake Helen, like being in a combination of a tanning bed and a sauna. Took 5 more minutes to get from Lake Helen to Horse Camp. It kills me at this point to do anything but ski descents.
Posted Jun 9, 2009 4:14 pm

McCannsterJohn Muir Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2009


Summited via Avy Gulch with my friend Ben. Fun, exhausting climb. 12 hours roundtrip from Bunny Flat.
Posted Jun 3, 2009 1:07 am

Curtissimoicy on descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 26, 2009


with early start comes icy descent, or late start brutal sun and easy descent. We chose the former!
Posted May 28, 2009 5:54 pm

Tom FralichCasaval Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 26, 2009

Tom Fralich

Left Horse Camp at 1AM and got to the summit at around 8:30AM. The route was not as technically interesting as I expected, but it sure was LONG. The walk across the crater tested my will to live. The descent went fast, despite the abundant post-holes. Back to Horse Camp at 11:30AM.
Posted May 26, 2009 5:40 pm

vanman798From Bunny Flat  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 23, 2009


Did the 7,000+ vertical foot climb from Bunny Flat, up Avalanche Gulch, to the peak in just under seven hours. Skied down in about one hour from the base of Misery Hill via the Trinity Chutes, approximately 6,400 vertical feet of very nice corn snow.
Posted May 26, 2009 12:11 pm

BlackmouthCasaval Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 20, 2009


This was my first time up Shasta and I was fortunate to be able to climb with Forjan & Mdostby, who have summited Shasta multiple times. We were the only ones on Casaval Ridge that day.Roundtrip was a few minutes over 12 hours. I look forward to climbing this route again.
Posted May 25, 2009 2:30 pm

bigstrazAvalanche Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 8, 2009


Weather was WAY nice... to nice, I didn't bring anything short sleeved... 7 of us went to Helen Lake, 5 of us got out bed @ 1am and 3 of us made it to the top. PS ... got burned in places I didn't know I had... like in my ears!
Posted May 19, 2009 8:28 pm

peerzatcould've lit a match on the summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2009


beautiful conditions on high. left bunny flats at 1130am. skinned up to Lake Helen on the 19th in great weather, almost too warm/soft to skin up by the end of the day. alpine start on the 20th, 430am, at a mellow pace to summit by 1100. could've lit a match on the summit. perfectly still, no clouds, about 50deg. skied down, bullet proof up top, avalanche gulch in perfect light corn making for really heavy snow down low after picking up camp and catching our breath. But, ya can't beat perfect conditions on the steeps! yow! excellent adventures.
Posted May 3, 2009 4:16 pm

junoiceclimber0 4 2 solo attempts


March and November both stormed me off at 10 and 11 thousand, but hot dammit I loved every minute being on the mtn. Casaval in March and Seargents in November. Like the governor says, "I'll be back!"
Posted Apr 29, 2009 3:04 am

thholderAvy Gulch from Horse Camp  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2008


Waited out the wind for 2 days,entertained by climbers stories being blown off Helen Lake. Our first time on Shasta,really surprised by the views
Posted Apr 28, 2009 2:55 pm

bfrenchShasta  Sucess!


Skied Trinity Chutes with CW.
Posted Apr 28, 2009 12:27 am

PellucidWombatCasaval Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 26, 2009


I tried to dayhike the route twice before, failing due to an oncoming cold and a freaky windslab. This time I was successful despite bruising my ribs the day before. Excellent route!
Posted Apr 27, 2009 7:17 am

DustyDeb9Re: Casaval Ridge


Just wondering what the snow conditions were like. I've heard that the mountain did not get a lot of snow this past season. I'm planning a trip up the Avalanche gulche route in about 3 weeks. I've gone up the mountain once before but am still new to mountaineering.
Posted Apr 27, 2009 8:01 am

PrestonRheaCasaval  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 17, 2009


Not nearly as hard as I expected, fun none the less. Had the summit to ourselves. The catwalk was definitely the highlight. Very interesting rock.
Posted Apr 18, 2009 9:26 pm

Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2009
Skinned up to Casaval, fooled around on a few of the big gendarmes and enjoyed the blizzard conditions, probably stopped around 12,600-800. Skied down the west side of the ridge toward hidden valley, found a round about way back to the road and hitched back up to bunny flat. The section of trees between bunny flat parking and the start of the ridge can be a pain in the butt. Some wind slab action on the east side of the ridge.
Posted Apr 14, 2009 7:48 pm

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