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asmrzSwiss Arete-Winter attempts
Date Climbed: Feb 19, 1993


Bryan Johnson and I skied to the Mt. Galey Morraine in February 1993 from the Glacier Lodge and next day broke the trail via deep snow all the way to the base of the Swiss Arete. Next day we got on the Arete and climbed several pitches before being forced to rap due to exteremely strong, arctic wind coming from the western side. It was just way too cold, even with our one piece suits, plastic boots and down, we could not continue. That reminds me that Miguel Carmona and I tried the same thing (I guess I don't learn too quickly)in the early 80s and never actually touched the arete, got stormed on and burried in heavy snow fall somewhere at the base. Remember the temperatures were at-17 F in the tent at night. We bailed by skiing the wide gully between Temple Crag and Mt.Galey down to Third Lake.
Posted May 4, 2006 4:20 pm

asmrzV Notch Ice gully  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 6, 1986


Bill Oliver and I climbed the V Notch with the direct start
(over the schrund) in October of 1986. All I remember is the direct start which included a wild move over the lip of the schrund hanging off of a tool placed above the lip. I also remember going down to the glacier via the very dangerous terrain from the middle of the ridge between V Notch and Sill and finding it extremely unstable, steep and dangerous terrain. There is much easier if longer way down. Go almost all the way to the summit of Sill and descend either the snow field or the adjacent rock buttress down to the Col. It is much safer that way especially in view of the several accidents that occured (on the first down route described)in the last few years. This of course assumes that one camps somewhere close to Gailey rather then on Palisades Glacier.
Posted May 4, 2006 4:09 pm

MichaelJSwiss arete 5.9 var  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2005


Climbed with Misha. Nice alpine experience, awesome views.
Posted Mar 20, 2006 4:53 am

mthilgard13Beautiful Spring Climb
Date Climbed: May 25, 2005


Altitude sickness problems over 11000 ft. Made it to the class 4 section at about 13,700 ft. By then, I told my buddy I was over it. Winds were hellacious. Snow conditions perfect, tons of coverage. A must do again. Favorite Sierra climb, very epic.
Posted Feb 22, 2006 10:34 pm

Peak_BaggerRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: Aug 2004  Sucess!


Great climb, lots of fun. Only one pitch was hard the rest pretty easy. Afterwards I traversed the ridge to Polemonium and summited it too.
Posted Dec 15, 2005 10:40 am

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: V Notch Date Climbed: September 1980  Sucess!


good ice, good view. with James Barnett
Posted Oct 17, 2005 4:31 pm

sierramtngoatRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: Sept 27, 2003  Sucess!


Climbed route with Maria. This was a good all-mountain experience. The snow was very hard on the Palisade and L-shaped glacier; this took some extra time.
Posted Sep 12, 2005 4:27 am

kovarpaRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: August 30, 2005  Sucess!


Climbed with Vendulka. Up the L-shaped snowfield and down via the North Couloir (there seems to some confusion in the various guidebooks on what the NC route is...). Great views from the top.
Posted Sep 8, 2005 8:27 pm

CompletebumRoute Climbed: N. Coulour Date Climbed: September 3, 2005  Sucess!


The 4th class section will probably be covered with light snow/ice for the rest of the season making it more difficult. We wound up rappelling it on the way down. Only enjoyed the "Best view in the Sierra" for 10 thanks to single digit wind chills.
Posted Sep 6, 2005 12:56 pm

cp0915Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: Sept 3, 2005  Sucess!


Nice climb with completebum and rwkent. The class 4 section was a little sketchy with ice/snow present.
Posted Sep 6, 2005 10:26 am

ripper333Route Climbed: swiss arete Date Climbed: august 21, 2005  Sucess!
typical long hump to the glacier... glad to find the

killer bivy cave not occupied.. 7am start ... was able

to free solo ... incredible experience.. the views

and weather were perfect.. kinda crappy decent on

some sketchball snow but able to pull thru...

back to camp for some chow and then the big

hump back to metal box..
Posted Aug 31, 2005 6:16 pm

MishaRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete (Direct Buttress variation) Date Climbed: August 20, 2005  Sucess!


Fantastic route! Mike Ybarra and I started from our base camp at Third Lake. Mike missed the famous step-around move and instead led us up the '5.9 direct buttresss variation' (as per Secor), which featured a stellar yet pumpy hand crack. Way to go, Mike! Incredible views from the summit. On the descent, we discovered that a good part of the West face is covered with fresh snow and ice. Four dicey rappels later, we finally got to the top of North couloir and downclimbed/glissaded back to the glacier. Got off route on the hike out and found ourselves on the slabs above Sam Mack Meadows. Had *just* enough daylight to rappel into the moat near the east side of the meadows and find the trail. A great and long day!
Posted Aug 22, 2005 12:54 pm

dabenderRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: August 13, 2005  Sucess!


Another beautiful day in the Sierras. Spectacular views all along the route.
Posted Aug 16, 2005 4:22 am

danman3156Route Climbed: swiss arete Date Climbed: july 27 2005  Sucess!


Amazing climb, very clean rock with some fun moves. The summit is one of my favorites so far.
Posted Aug 1, 2005 2:38 pm

DeeDeeRoute Climbed: The Swiss Arete Date Climbed: July 4, 2003  Sucess!


Great climb.
Posted Jul 26, 2005 10:42 pm

Brian KaletRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 24, 2005  Sucess!

Brian Kalet

The couloir had plenty of snow in it, but I didn't need to use my crampons.
Posted Jul 25, 2005 4:17 pm

nerdomRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: 9 July 05  Sucess!


Via the Swiss Arete. Two teams of two each with friends Doug, Colin and Scott. Noticed in the summit log that badass ski legend Glen Plake had signed in a few weeks earlier!
Posted Jul 15, 2005 3:52 pm

SamanthaRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 3, 2005  Sucess!


Finally made it to the summit of Mt. Sill after two attempts from the west, and one chicken exit from the east. Stellar weather all day. The snow was pretty mushy though.
Posted Jul 5, 2005 4:01 pm

Dave KRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 3, 2005  Sucess!

Dave K

This was a very enjoyable climb. The conditions were quite snowy for this time of year, which was an advantage.
Posted Jul 5, 2005 12:40 am

ceschulzeRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: June 28 2005  Sucess!
Mt. Sill is a beautiful mountain and I hope to make it up there again. It is my first "14er" in the Palasade region. The climb via South Fork was nice except for the aweful plants and mosquitos in the Willow lake area.
Posted Jul 4, 2005 12:58 am

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