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DigglerRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: 23 August, 2003  Sucess!


FINALLY did this route (after years of wanting to)!!! Great climb, with perfect rock, stimulating exposure, & fun & sustained climbing- to the top of a 14er! Mark was a great partner, too.

Due to starting late (got on the route @ 12.02), we also ended late (I topped out @ 19.11), but that allowed us to enjoy magnificent sunset views of the Palisades- how many people getta see that??!!

Tricky class 4 routefinding in the dark (we also only had 1 headlamp!), with sections of verglas & snow, made going back down quite 'interesting!' After getting to the notch between Sill & its subpeak, I thought it was easy from there- wrong! Class 2-3 N couloir was utter crap (sometimes it felt like half the gully was sliding down with each step!). At least we got to rap' past the bottom of the snowfield, w/o having to don crampons.

Unfortunately, we then couldn't find the notch leading to the variation we took to gain the plateau, & shivered & (somehow) slept until sunrise, when we found the 'easy' way back down to the glacier. Another Sierra epic!
Posted Aug 28, 2003 3:52 pm

PellucidWombatRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: August 23rd  Sucess!


Great climb. Took longer than expected, though, so we had to find our way down in the dark and ended up sleeping at the Glacier Notch until dawn.

We never encountered what seemed to be the 'reach around' move, but we did encouter a 5.8 (maybe 5.9?) crack on the left side of the ridge which was the crux of the climb for us.
Posted Aug 25, 2003 7:26 pm

ocelotRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: 21 July 2003  Sucess!


A fun snow/ice climb up the Glacier Notch, L-shaped glacier, then some loose class 4 with some exposure to the top. Amazing views from the top, then traversed to Polemonium to scope it out for a future climb. Rapped off the ridge to avoid downclimbing the loose stuff to the saddle between Apex and Sill. Base camped in a large cave in the morraine on the way down to Mack Meadows. Nice.
Posted Aug 11, 2003 1:09 pm

Paul SpraycarRoute Climbed: Southwest Slope Date Climbed: July 29, 2001  Sucess!
Fun climb from Lower Palisade Lake via Cirque Pass.
Posted Jul 26, 2003 4:07 pm

GuyzoRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: June 25 2003  Sucess!


Climbed with JJ Cridel. From the shores of third lake to the car in one long day! Lots of snow! Great view! This is a very worthy climb to do. c-ya!! :>)
Posted Jun 27, 2003 11:21 am

depclimbRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: August 8, 1993  Sucess!


The second day of the up and down Himalaya training camp. The route was fun and I think Sill has the best views in the Sierra. The current rating of 5.8 seems very generous, more like 5.7.
Posted May 8, 2003 2:35 pm

Dave KRoute Climbed: Southwest slope Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!

Dave K

On my third try I finally made it up the Southwest Slope. Fun, but a looooong approach.
Posted Jan 22, 2003 5:31 pm

Eric TiptonRoute Climbed: "Dead Larry's Pillar" III 5.10 Date Climbed: July, 2001  Sucess!
I climbed this route with Kenn Kenega after humping our full packs over Contact Pass, due to the threat of ice on the normal approach. Don't go this way.

The route was great, good rock, lots of ways to go. We probaly did parts of both of the "Dead Larry" routes.
Posted Dec 16, 2002 12:31 am

asmrzRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: July 27, 2001


Penelope May and I climbed Swiss Arete from our camp on the Gayley moraine in july of 2001. This was one of the most delightful trips I have ever done in the Sierra. My partner was a huge part of it. We had the most beautiful time up there. The descent via North Glacier was very difficult with aluminum crampons and ice axes as two years of drought brought very early ice to Palisades. There was hard alpine ice in the gully and we had to be very careful. But the climb was really great. I will never forget this trip.
Posted Nov 15, 2002 10:03 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: August 25, 1996  Sucess!


Climbed the Swiss Arete with Don Brosnahan in 1996. The route was the first part of our attempted traverse to Thunderbolt Peak which we aborted due to high winds on the crest.
Posted Nov 15, 2002 9:55 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: Swiss Arete Date Climbed: July 3, 1984  Sucess!


In July 1984, Robert Somoano, Waren Davis and I climbed the Swiss Arete from our camp at Sam Mack Meadow. This was my first Mt.Sill experience.
Posted Nov 15, 2002 9:52 pm

thenunzRoute Climbed: Southwest Slope Date Climbed: 09/10/1999  Sucess!


Very nice mountain. Great views of the Palisades and canyons to the southwest. Easiest of the 14er's in that area.
Posted Oct 29, 2002 12:25 pm

rmjwintersRoute Climbed: Palisade Glacier Date Climbed: June 29 2001  Sucess!


Beautiful summit with great views up and down.
Posted Oct 6, 2002 1:56 pm

bearbnzRoute Climbed: Traverse from Polemonium Peak, class 4 Date Climbed: August 17, 2002  Sucess!


Traversed from Thunderbolt to Starlight to North Pal to Polemonium and finally to Mt. Sill with ScottyS , arriving atop Sill around 9 pm. The wind was howling up there, so we headed for the East Couloir for descent into the South Fork of Big Pine Creek.
Posted Oct 5, 2002 9:13 pm

LangenbacherRoute Climbed: Southwest slope Date Climbed: July 7, 2002  Sucess!


Beautiful day, beautiful view. Second time I climbed it in 30 years.

Climbed in 6 hours from Palisade basin via Potluck Pass.
Posted Oct 5, 2002 12:36 am

Craig PeerRoute Climbed: Via the V Notch ice gully Date Climbed: August 1999  Sucess!

Craig Peer

We ( Tim Winiarski, Kevin jellison and I ) climbed Sill via the V Notch ice gully under full water ice conditions and a traverse from Polmonium Peak. And videotaped this little epic!
Posted Sep 23, 2002 1:10 pm

vlaninRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 5, 2002  Sucess!
Via South Fork trail
Posted Sep 10, 2002 12:22 pm

ScottySRoute Climbed: Traverse from Polemonium Date Climbed: August 17,2002  Sucess!


Traversed from Thunderbolt to Starlight to N.Pal to Polemonium to Sill with bearbnz. We freeclimbed most of the route, with three rappels and three belayed (probably unneccesary) pitches total. Heavy packs and little route knowledge (Secor's book only) made for slow time --- OK, maybe lack of fitness contributed! Left the car around 530, summited Thunderbolt around 1100, summited Sill around 2100. Waited for daylight to decend an east couloir of Sill and walk down to the S. Fork Trail. Got to the car at 1330 on Aug. 18 and drove home to get some sleep.
Posted Aug 18, 2002 9:31 pm

GuiltyRoute Climbed: Traverse from ThunderBolt. Date Climbed: July 6, 02  Sucess!


Me & Ian traverse from Thunderbolt peak, along the Palisade ridge, hitting all the peaks on the way. Left and return from Ranger hut.
Posted Jul 9, 2002 11:07 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: Ridge to Apex peak, then 5.easy headwall Date Climbed: July 6, 2002  Sucess!


I hiked up the North Fork of Big Pine Creek not really knowing what I was going to climb. I thought about the Moon Goddess Arete on Temple Crag, but that looked like a hassle. Then I considered bagging Mount Gayley, but I asked myself "Why?" As I neared the Palisade Glacier, I decided to do the Swiss Arete on Mount Sill. I hiked up some easy snowfields to the saddle between Sill and Gayley, then for some reason I started up toward "Apex Peak" (that's the little knob along the ridge). I cruised to the top of that on Class 4 rock. From the top of that bump, I saw what appeared to be good climbing on a "headwall" right below the summit. There were some very easy ways up, but I decided to take some 5.8ish splitter cracks. Those were very fun. Along the way, I liberated two stoppers, a tri-cam, and 4 carabiners from the mountain. I got to the top about 3:45 after I left my car. I could only find one writing utensil in the register box, and it was non-functional. After a couple minutes on the summit, I decided to traverse south a bit on the Palisade Crest. After an hour or so of Class 4/5 climbing, I got bored and did some fairly serious downclimbing to get off the Ridge. I then descended the horrendous South Fork of Big Pine to my car. Today was a "deprivation training" -- that meant no food and 1 liter of water. That was only partially intentional.
Posted Jul 6, 2002 8:10 pm

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