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Mount Sneffels Climber's Log

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eckdoerryRoute Climbed: Standard Route Date Climbed: multiple  Sucess!

eckdoerry

I've climbed this several times, always by the standard route. It's not super-exciting, but is a great workout --- and the surrounding Yankee Boy Basin is very scenic. Makes you want to bust out with the theme from Sounds of Music or something...

The first time I did it, I mtn biked from Ouray up to 12k in Yankee boy, then cruised up. The end was sketchy, with a loose scrabbly couloir. The second time up I figured out I'd done the WRONG ending. Be patient: don't take the FIRST chimney you see, go all the way to the saddle and take the scond chimney. Much mellower...
Posted Nov 28, 2003 11:52 am

jomalRoute Climbed: Yankee Boy Basin Date Climbed: July 03  Sucess!

jomal

Camped around 12,000 the night before in Yankee Boy, wish I had had more time to explore that area...

Encountered a mountain lion on our hike up to 12,000 (around 10 at night) which scared the crap out of me and my two friends.

My first fourteener, and it was absolutely beautiful!

I'm hooked!
Posted Nov 21, 2003 2:27 am

big_gRoute Climbed: South Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2003

big_g

Wow what a blast! Not only was the route fun but I was treated to full frontal nudity by a group of college coeds on a freshman orientation hike/climb. Climbing just got a whole lot more fun. Nobody will ever believe me because of their no cameras rule, but I swear it happened.
Posted Sep 29, 2003 3:45 pm

msnelsonRoute Climbed: Yankee Boy Basin Date Climbed: August 9, 2003  Sucess!
We started out at 8:30am. It was a beautiful day. We thought that some of it (the scree fields) were harder than a class 2. Trekking poles would have been good for the descent. All in all, it was worth it--fantastic views!!
Posted Sep 14, 2003 6:10 pm

ScottRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 3 2001  Sucess!

Scott

Crowded on a holiday weekend. Very easy peak. Nice view.
Posted Aug 21, 2003 12:31 pm

miztflipRoute Climbed: South Slopes/Lavender Col Date Climbed: July 17, 2003  Sucess!

miztflip

Intended to do the SW ridge but my wife didn't feel well. I left her and did the standard South Slope, WHAT A MISTAKE. I'm not sure were Gerry Roach gets his Classic rating for this route. I agree with Dafreshman, stay with the SW ridge and avoid the choss pile.



Made the summit for sunrise over the San Juans and soon forgot about the scree, what a treat. Fast climb from the restroom in Lower Yankee Boy Basin.
Posted Jul 17, 2003 5:12 pm

ctruscotRoute Climbed: Yankee Boy Basin Date Climbed: July 11  Sucess!
Man what a treat - this was my 5th climb in the last week. Drove all the way to end of road. From there the summit was only 1.5 hours. I was back in town for breaksfast. What a treat !!!
Posted Jul 14, 2003 7:47 pm

DaFreshmanRoute Climbed: SW Ridge (3rd class route) Date Climbed: 5 July, 2003  Sucess!
What a phenomenal climb! Route finding problems are somewhat interesting, but not nearly as complicated as many of the other 3rd/4th class routes in Colorado. Some rotten rock is found leading up to the prominent notch in the ridge, but above the notch the rock is suprisingly very solid. Final stretch to the summit finds some exciting exposure on a neat ridgeline that narrows to as little as 12 inches in places. Don't let the class 3 rating scare you off of this route - the standard route is one big long choss pile and no where NEAR as fun (IMHO) as this ridge. DO THIS ROUTE!
Posted Jul 7, 2003 8:11 am

nickdRoute Climbed: lavender col Date Climbed: 6-12-03  Sucess!

nickd

climbed sneffels standard route 6-12-03. road dry to 11,400', south basin mostly melted out. east gully in good shape. the pic below shows the east gully (upper part of standard route). this shows the south basin, and this one is a cool view from sneffels toward the telluride area.



by way of crowds - there was no one else in the basin, and no-one but my party of two on the mountain that particular thursday.
Posted Jun 15, 2003 9:35 pm

Alan EllisRoute Climbed: Standard Route/Lavender Col Date Climbed: July 4, 2002  Sucess!

Alan Ellis

Summited in quarter-size snow with my wife and 14 yr old son. Too many 4WDs and other vehicles in Yankee Boy basin though. Otherwise......good fun!
Posted Jun 5, 2003 8:16 pm

DigglerRoute Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: 27 August, 2000  Sucess!

Diggler

Having turned back the previous day due to threatening thunderclouds (some naïve guy from Holland had kept going without any worries), I got an alpine start to give me a better probability of escaping bad weather, leaving my car in the dark at 5.22. I parked well below the standard 2WD parking lot at 5.5 mi past the turnoff from highway 550, where my map-deciphering placed me a good, solid 4,000 ft below the summit. Hiking through the sunrise, I was amazed by the beauty of Yankee Boy Basin and the enormity of the peaks of the area- I didn't know which mountain was the right one until I was on its lower slopes! Hiking on a weak and sore ankle, I still almost caught up to the 'Swank bro's (one of the guys had done 34 14ers, the other 30),' whom I'd first spotted at the saddle, on the class 3/4 ridge variation taken (fun climbing!). Summited at 9.15, hanging out to talk to the other guys on top and enjoy the beauty of the surroundings, before leaving @ 9.35 (clouds already starting to build). Took the standard scree slog route down, reaching the car @ 12.35.
Posted Mar 21, 2003 12:06 pm

dsnellRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: June 1995, July 1996  Sucess!

dsnell

Climbed with James Harrison in 1995 and Chris Snell in 1996, both times up the South Ridge. The South Ridge is an excellent choice and much more interesting than the standard route up Scree Col. Although the route at times looks impassible, one should never encounter climbing harder than hard 3rd class with proper route finding. Highly recommended.

I attempted the Snake Couloir in September of 1993, but we turned back just below the turn. Lightning was striking nearby peaks causing massive rockfall. We got the heck out of there.
Posted Dec 18, 2002 3:22 pm

markmayRoute Climbed: South Ridge & 4th Class Col Date Climbed: June 10 2002  Sucess!

markmay

Great Hike! I want to come back for the North lakes route.
Posted Dec 8, 2002 9:27 am

mtnhiker13Route Climbed: Class 3 Route Date Climbed: July 29, 2002  Sucess!

mtnhiker13

I had the pleasure of climbing this mountain this summer after hearing so much about it for a long time. We took the Class 3 route which was incredibly invigorating and spectacular. The view of the Blue Lakes from the Class 3 route was great. Weather conditions were very nice as we were able to take our time and enjoy the incredible view from the summit. One of, if not the best view from a 14er. I would definitely climb this mountain many more times. We descended the standard route. It was fun climbing this mountain with someone who had only climbed one other 14er (Sherman). The look on his face was priceless.
Posted Nov 19, 2002 4:20 pm

cruzitRoute Climbed: Lavender Col Date Climbed: July 4, 2002  Sucess!

cruzit

The snow was beautiful and the company even better. Summitted with my husband, mtntrail2 and my son.
Posted Nov 16, 2002 7:08 pm

lemushratfouRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: September 15,2002  Sucess!
Nice fun route with some good scrambling on a beautiful sunny day.Reminded me of the Cuillin mountains over here in Scotland.

Alex :o)
Posted Oct 9, 2002 2:34 pm

rmjwintersRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: August 27  Sucess!

rmjwinters

Great route. I'm glad we opted for this route instead of the hundreds of people on the other route. Who would drive all the way to the end of the road? Why even climb the peak? As roach says, "this climb is a lark if you choose to drive all the way up into Yankee Boy Basin."
Posted Oct 6, 2002 1:41 pm

mountrobsonRoute Climbed: Lavender Col Date Climbed: 02-20-00  Sucess!

mountrobson

"Finally - a winter ascent of a 14'er!! One of the most beautiful peaks I've ever climbed. Never would have made it without my good friend and primo-partner, Rain Sussman. Also, my first approach using skis instead of snowshoes -- WOW, am I ever sold on 'em!!
Posted Sep 26, 2002 4:55 am

Rich HussRoute Climbed: Mt Sneffles-N. Face route from Blue Lakes Pass Date Climbed: August 89  Sucess!

Rich Huss

We parked at the standard route trailhead, reaching Blue Lakes Pass early and began our traverse around to the north. In a little over an hour into the traverse we’d gained a few hundred feet to cross the man eating scree field immediately below the cliff band and dropped several hundred feet to cross a large scree bowl to come within sight of the couloir. It turned out to be cool and inviting, narrow tall walled, steep, mostly good footing, relatively good rock and gradually curving up out of sight. After an hour or so on, we were at the DogLeg looking down a thousand feet of ice into Blaine basin. Looking up to 500 feet of ice in the couloir above and an inviting ledge system on the right shoulder of the couloir above. We followed the ledge system to the ridge, joining the standard route and on 300 feet to the summit. Later returning via the standard route.

The traverse is mostly 2nd class and the couloirs are mostly 3rd class with a few moves of 4th class. The upper couloir especially has several sections of loose rock wall. We were continually aware not to pull a refrigerator size rock down on ourselves-literally!! The trip from car to summit is probably about 4 to 5 hours. We took a couple hours longer as we were enjoying the sights and had not actually planned to summit. The weather was excellent and everything seemed to invite us on.

More info in trip report. I do not know of anyone else trying this route and as we had a wonderful time would love to hear you experiences.
Posted Aug 11, 2002 10:50 am

screehopperRoute Climbed: Southeast face via Yankee Boy Basin. Date Climbed: July,3,2002  Sucess!

screehopper

Climbed Sneffels during the dry season. Even though, we encountered lighting on the way down and hiked back to Yankee Boy in the rain. It is best to start early and get down before noon. Not having 4-Wheel drive made the trip much longer. It is possibe to start from the 12,000 foot level with 4-wheel drive in the summer. The notch at the top of the couloir could be considered minor rock climbing, but once past the notch the summit pitch was rather easy. It is the opinion of this climber that the pitch to Lavender Col was the hardest part of the route. Mostly due to the lack of footing the loose scree provides. By the way an article in the Denver Post revealed that Sneffels is actually 14,153'. A recent Geological survey set the mark three feet higher. So now your t-shirt is obsolete!
Posted Jul 9, 2002 8:08 pm

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