ylamurto - Jun 15, 2009 12:52 pm Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2009
SE Saddle
Summited alone in rain and hail when everybody else had turned around.
gjonbelay - Mar 14, 2009 4:28 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 1999
SE Saddle September 27 1999
George Sinclair led me up this peak during a 3 day trip that included Mt. Clark. After climbing Clark we moved our camp below Starr King. This late in the season we were lucky to find a small creek close to the route that we could camp next to.
lefty - Aug 20, 2008 12:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008
SE Saddle
My first multi-pitch in the Sierra.
catullus - Nov 20, 2007 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Nov 19, 2007
first lead!
Climbed SE Saddle with Jessie Liu. Pretty runout. The crux moves are a long way away from any crack systems. Took four raps to get down with a 60m rope. Augmented one of the rap stations with some new webbing and biners. First entry in the summit log since late october! Some entries date back to the 1980s. Cool!
tb00957 - Aug 3, 2007 12:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
SE saddle
RJ gives it 5.0, I would rate the 1st pitch about 5.5, a bit runout but fun.
Bill Kish - May 20, 2007 10:27 pm Date Climbed: May 19, 2007
SE Saddle
SE Saddle from Mono Meadow with Seth. First summit register entry of 2007! On rappel we found one of the fixed pitons to be very loose, so we traversed to climbers right to an alternate rappel station. Afterwards we camped on the middle summit enjoying perfect summer-like weather. 2X June 10, 2012, BAMM Summit Bivy!
Route Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: October 8, 2005
We climbed as two parties of 2; I climbed with Juan Carlos Marvizon and ming21 climbed with Dave Van Selow. I found the lower section of the class 3+ friction gully to have some spicy moves since I was wearing regular tennis shoes with non-sticky rubber soles. The SE Saddle climb itself was straightforward; we descended the same class 3+ friction gully; I wore my climbing shoes for this descent. All in all, great company on a great setting.
Route Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: May 21, 2005
What Rob said below. Cool scramble up to the saddle, and a fun climb to the summit from there too. I'll have to go back to climb the northeast side some time.
Route Climbed: SE saddle Date Climbed: 21-May-2005
Climbed with Matthew Holliman. Started from Happy Isles trailhead in Yosemite Valley. Got soaked by the spray from Vernal Falls on the way up. Streams were running down the trail on the way up from Nevada Falls. Approach to the base of the 3rd class friction took us about 4 hours, with some , ah, wonderful bushwhacking (according to NG Topo it was about 7 miles / 4000'). No significant snow remained on the trail.
The 750' friction climb to the saddle seemed like class 3+; I decided to get my rock shoes out for this, but Matthew did it in approach shoes. There was some snow at the base of the slabs, but it was not a problem.
Matthew led the route from the saddle in two pitches with a 50m rope as per the route page. Rapped down three times; replaced and / or augmented the slings we found. The last rap from the pitons kind of spooked me, since it traversed right, with the potential for some pendulum action over steeper ground. Kicking myself - should have brought a 60m rope for this.
The weather was pretty much perfect, with excellent views. Snow remained on the north-facing slopes. We descended the class 2 route over the middle dome.
btw Misha & Etsuko's entries in the summit log were the most recent.
Route Climbed: Somewhere on the SE Face Date Climbed: October 10, 2004
Etsuko and I climbed this awesome peak from Mono Meadows on a beautiful fall day. It was weird going through the pine tree and manzanita forest completely devastated by the recent fire. Some of the trees were still smoking. We hiked up to the saddle on the right side of the "central peak", went over the "central peak" to the SE saddle and since we had no route beta with us, just climbed what looked doable on the SE face. It felt like 5.5-5.6 in places, with a couple of runouts on the 2nd pitch.
Route Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: July, 11, 2004
This was an epic one day trip with Joe Hanssen. 25 hours on the move door to door from the SF Bay. I had some altitude issues with going up all in one day, but it was well worth the trip! The climb was easy but a nice warm up to the summer.
Route Climbed: Northeast Side (ascent) / Southeast Saddle (descent) Date Climbed: Feb 8, 2003
Started at 5:15a from Curry Village, up the JMT to Nevada Falls, then cross-country over snow to the north side of the summit. Used crampons and ski poles to ascend the 40 degree snow-covered slope, arriving at 10:30a. Changed to rock shoes to descend to the Southeast Saddle. Headed west towards Illilouette Creek, then climbed to Glacier Point, arriving at 3:15p. I then went down the snow-filled chute just west of Glacier Point to take the quick descent back to the Valley. Used crampons for about half the descent, before I could boulder-hop and slide down the loose slopes to Curry Village. Back to the car at 5:45p. Long day, but great fun! Trip Report
Route Climbed: from SE Saddle Date Climbed: August 3, 2002
Our first-ever multipitch route. We camped at the large saddle between the south and central summits--great spot, if a bit hard to reach with a heavy pack. Although the climbing was easy, the rappels turned into quite an extravaganza. Thanks to a gutsy downlead by Kim from an intermediate anchor, we were able to descend the route in "2.5" rappels with a 60-meter rope. We met the (infamous?) Yosemite climbing ranger, Mark Fincher, on the hike out, and felt less bad about our near-epic when he called the rappel "terrifying". Very fun climb!
I think "5.0" is a bit of a sandbag. The toughest moves on the first pitch seemed 5.4ish, and had some decent runouts. However, most of the rest of the route is probably class 4.
The oldest register book dates from 1985! We saw signatures from Greg Daggett ("Greg D") and Bob Burd ("snwburd").
Route Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: Sept 11, 1999 / June 23, 2000
Monty and I took my brother Tom out for his first technical climb ever - he'd never even used a harness. It was a gas, even if it didn't seem like Monty and I knew what the hell we were doing (novices ourselves). It took us all day primarily because we spent so many hours messing with the rope.
The second time I climbed with Michael on our way to Mt. Clark, and we did it more efficiently, cleaner, and faster. But it wasn't as much fun as the first time! :)
ylamurto - Jun 15, 2009 12:52 pm Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2009
SE SaddleSummited alone in rain and hail when everybody else had turned around.
gjonbelay - Mar 14, 2009 4:28 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 1999
SE Saddle September 27 1999George Sinclair led me up this peak during a 3 day trip that included Mt. Clark. After climbing Clark we moved our camp below Starr King. This late in the season we were lucky to find a small creek close to the route that we could camp next to.
Trip Report
lefty - Aug 20, 2008 12:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008
SE SaddleMy first multi-pitch in the Sierra.
catullus - Nov 20, 2007 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Nov 19, 2007
first lead!Climbed SE Saddle with Jessie Liu. Pretty runout. The crux moves are a long way away from any crack systems. Took four raps to get down with a 60m rope. Augmented one of the rap stations with some new webbing and biners. First entry in the summit log since late october! Some entries date back to the 1980s. Cool!
tb00957 - Aug 3, 2007 12:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
SE saddleRJ gives it 5.0, I would rate the 1st pitch about 5.5, a bit runout but fun.
Bill Kish - May 20, 2007 10:27 pm Date Climbed: May 19, 2007
SE SaddleSE Saddle from Mono Meadow with Seth. First summit register entry of 2007! On rappel we found one of the fixed pitons to be very loose, so we traversed to climbers right to an alternate rappel station. Afterwards we camped on the middle summit enjoying perfect summer-like weather. 2X June 10, 2012, BAMM Summit Bivy!
mountainmatt - Mar 18, 2006 6:32 am
SE SaddleLed the run-out first pitch on a Starr King run with a buddy and his girl EARLY spring '05
Antonio Genissimo - Feb 28, 2006 9:24 pm Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2003
A climbing dayMyself, wife and friends, Mark & Gail Schelnker climbed the 5.4 (?) route. Lovely climb, nice weather, but we had a sort of sketchy descent.
Robt - Dec 13, 2005 1:23 pm
Route Climbed: 5.2 Date Climbed: July 2, 2005Led by Bob Suzuki and Jim Ramaker. To Mt. Clark the next day.
forjan - Oct 11, 2005 3:32 pm
Route Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: October 8, 2005We climbed as two parties of 2; I climbed with Juan Carlos Marvizon and ming21 climbed with Dave Van Selow. I found the lower section of the class 3+ friction gully to have some spicy moves since I was wearing regular tennis shoes with non-sticky rubber soles. The SE Saddle climb itself was straightforward; we descended the same class 3+ friction gully; I wore my climbing shoes for this descent. All in all, great company on a great setting.
Matthew Holliman - Jul 8, 2005 1:14 am
Route Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: May 21, 2005What Rob said below. Cool scramble up to the saddle, and a fun climb to the summit from there too. I'll have to go back to climb the northeast side some time.
rhyang - May 22, 2005 3:54 pm
Route Climbed: SE saddle Date Climbed: 21-May-2005Climbed with Matthew Holliman. Started from Happy Isles trailhead in Yosemite Valley. Got soaked by the spray from Vernal Falls on the way up. Streams were running down the trail on the way up from Nevada Falls. Approach to the base of the 3rd class friction took us about 4 hours, with some , ah, wonderful bushwhacking (according to NG Topo it was about 7 miles / 4000'). No significant snow remained on the trail.
The 750' friction climb to the saddle seemed like class 3+; I decided to get my rock shoes out for this, but Matthew did it in approach shoes. There was some snow at the base of the slabs, but it was not a problem.
Matthew led the route from the saddle in two pitches with a 50m rope as per the route page. Rapped down three times; replaced and / or augmented the slings we found. The last rap from the pitons kind of spooked me, since it traversed right, with the potential for some pendulum action over steeper ground. Kicking myself - should have brought a 60m rope for this.
The weather was pretty much perfect, with excellent views. Snow remained on the north-facing slopes. We descended the class 2 route over the middle dome.
btw Misha & Etsuko's entries in the summit log were the most recent.
Misha - Oct 12, 2004 12:11 pm
Route Climbed: Somewhere on the SE Face Date Climbed: October 10, 2004Etsuko and I climbed this awesome peak from Mono Meadows on a beautiful fall day. It was weird going through the pine tree and manzanita forest completely devastated by the recent fire. Some of the trees were still smoking. We hiked up to the saddle on the right side of the "central peak", went over the "central peak" to the SE saddle and since we had no route beta with us, just climbed what looked doable on the SE face. It felt like 5.5-5.6 in places, with a couple of runouts on the 2nd pitch.
danbknox - Sep 12, 2004 10:33 am
Route Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: July, 11, 2004This was an epic one day trip with Joe Hanssen. 25 hours on the move door to door from the SF Bay. I had some altitude issues with going up all in one day, but it was well worth the trip! The climb was easy but a nice warm up to the summer.
ncfitton - Jun 28, 2004 11:01 am
Route Climbed: Southeast saddle Date Climbed: June 26th 2004Fun solo with an overnight bivy at the base of the gully, see trip report for details.
Bob Burd - Feb 9, 2003 9:16 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Side (ascent) / Southeast Saddle (descent) Date Climbed: Feb 8, 2003Started at 5:15a from Curry Village, up the JMT to Nevada Falls, then cross-country over snow to the north side of the summit. Used crampons and ski poles to ascend the 40 degree snow-covered slope, arriving at 10:30a. Changed to rock shoes to descend to the Southeast Saddle. Headed west towards Illilouette Creek, then climbed to Glacier Point, arriving at 3:15p. I then went down the snow-filled chute just west of Glacier Point to take the quick descent back to the Valley. Used crampons for about half the descent, before I could boulder-hop and slide down the loose slopes to Curry Village. Back to the car at 5:45p. Long day, but great fun! Trip Report
scottyb - Aug 26, 2002 11:08 pm
Route Climbed: SW Saddle Date Climbed: August 16, 2002Great solo day hike from mono meadows
mpbro - Aug 6, 2002 5:12 pm
Route Climbed: from SE Saddle Date Climbed: August 3, 2002Our first-ever multipitch route. We camped at the large saddle between the south and central summits--great spot, if a bit hard to reach with a heavy pack. Although the climbing was easy, the rappels turned into quite an extravaganza. Thanks to a gutsy downlead by Kim from an intermediate anchor, we were able to descend the route in "2.5" rappels with a 60-meter rope. We met the (infamous?) Yosemite climbing ranger, Mark Fincher, on the hike out, and felt less bad about our near-epic when he called the rappel "terrifying". Very fun climb!
I think "5.0" is a bit of a sandbag. The toughest moves on the first pitch seemed 5.4ish, and had some decent runouts. However, most of the rest of the route is probably class 4.
The oldest register book dates from 1985! We saw signatures from Greg Daggett ("Greg D") and Bob Burd ("snwburd").
Bob Burd - Aug 29, 2001 8:34 pm
Route Climbed: SE Saddle Date Climbed: Sept 11, 1999 / June 23, 2000Monty and I took my brother Tom out for his first technical climb ever - he'd never even used a harness. It was a gas, even if it didn't seem like Monty and I knew what the hell we were doing (novices ourselves). It took us all day primarily because we spent so many hours messing with the rope.
The second time I climbed with Michael on our way to Mt. Clark, and we did it more efficiently, cleaner, and faster. But it wasn't as much fun as the first time! :)