Car to Car via the Cascade Couloir in a day. The couloir itself was a lot easier than I thought. There wasn't nearly as much loose rock and scree as I was expecting, although a helmet would be recommended still. Still snow above 8,500' to the false summit, but didn't need to go on any snow from the false summit to the true summit. Went too far east on our descent and ended up in the wrong gully (followed a climber's trail down, beware!) Could have been done in hiking/trail running shoes with some microspikes with an ice axe. Great day!
MattDurkee - Jun 8, 2014 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2012
Cascadian Couloir
Left car at ~3:30 AM, back to car at ~8:00 PM. Fought off a mtn. goat with my ice ax. Took left scramble around false summit and then up. Came back down standard route off false summit. Glissaded down from false summit. River running high.
Arkitekt - Sep 26, 2013 1:44 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2013
Cascadian Colour
One Day Climb. Camped at the trailhead and Started at 7am. Hiked up and over and finished the hike at 6pm. Very tough hike about 13 miles RT by my GPS.
After crossing Ingalls Cre
ek on the way up we went Right (SE) along the Ingalls Creek Trail for about .25 miles to a cairn leading up the colour. The brush was a bit rough at first but it worked. On the way down we bypassed that by finding some other route. Couldn't explain it if I tried. It fizzled out and we walked straight through the brush downhill to the trail. Ending up just about 100 feet from the intersection of the trail going back. I don't think I would pick to try the more direct route up even if I could find it. It was a bit steep and the slopes were vegetated.
bedellympian - Sep 15, 2013 1:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2013
CNR
Complete North Ridge w/ Gendarme (V 5.9 28 pitches). Cloud cover resulting in low vis and some rain and snow on route led to unplanned bivy on ledge above Gendarme. A great route, long with a mix of wandery low 5th and sustained 5.8/9 climbing.
2016-08-14 via Complete North Ridge with Gendarme. Soloed entire upper ridge except Gendarme pitches with Sam
08/27/13 via Complete North Ridge with Gendarme bypass because to started raining just before getting to it.
WHAT a route!! When no opportunities opened up with friends, finally found a willing & able partner.
Camped near Ingalls Lake by meadows (would have just gone for the climb as a day climb in retrospect- additional hike back to camp after ascent SUCKED!), which provided stunning views of SW face of Stuart (& far too many obnoxious nocturnal goats).
Started from camp @ 5.20. Still a ways to go before reaching start of route (including a few sketchy snowfield crossings). Off & climbing finally @ 10.05. Belayed first 4 or so pitches of lower ridge before simul'ing to notch. P2 hardest of lower buttress. Simul'ed to Great Gendarme (seems like a misnomer- instead of climbing around the thing, you go straight up it). Successful roshambo meant I got the lead- phenomenal pitch (best of climb, in my opinion)!!! Linked strenuous lieback w/ "off-width" (actually a fist crack for normal-sized folks), then climbed ~50' above that to a 'bivy'/belay ledge. Dropped my brand new camera from notch above the gendarme, which SUCKED :( Made haste after that, as time growing nigh(t)- finally summited @ 20.05. LONG & fatigueing descent down Cascadian Couloir ensued (shitty-non-existent trails to Stuart Pass, then back to camp added to frustrations).
Finally back @ camp @ 3.06- WHAT a day, mountain, climb!!! Thanks, Mark!
droot - Sep 16, 2012 6:11 am Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012
Cascadian
Climbed via the Cascadian Couloir. Nothing major until the summit ridge is reached, and then some fun class 3 to the summit.
Fires were burning everywhere at the time, and we could see lots of smoke from the summit.
Came down the same way, making our way quickly digging into the soft sand.
kevinsa - Sep 15, 2012 9:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
Mt. Stuart
Got off route a little bit, but managed to salvage it. Would like to come back when there are a few less clouds.
JoelSkok - Sep 13, 2012 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 1977
West Ridge route
Loved the experience with my old Boy Scout leader Jack Kinney, Eddie Bolton and his girlfriend. Route finding was an issue but we at last prevailed. Some T-storms in the two days we were on the mountain but we found overhangs to stave off the hard rains. Pace was easy for me, didn't feel challenged.
Vitaliy M. - Aug 19, 2012 3:06 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012
Full North Ridge
Car to Car full north ridge with the gendarme. Out from Stuart Lake TH.
ClimberCrabs - Jul 18, 2012 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2011
Cascadian Couloir in the heat
Climbed Stuart via the Cascadian Couloir on a very hot weekend. Route was easy enough until we hit the snowfield below the false summit which was snowier than usual and quite slick. Made it up and over to the actual summit and enjoyed a nice nap. Navigating down the snowfield was dicey and one member of our party slipped but was able to arrest before the rocks. Had an awesome campsite in the meadow, probably the best part of the whole trip!
sgiles - Apr 12, 2012 12:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2010
Upper North Ridge
Classic climb, amazing exposure and views. We came in from the Ingalls Lake trailhead and went up and over goat pass. bivyed above the glacier and started climbing the next day. A storm rolled in while we were climbing and we ended up bivying on a ledge above the gendarme for 2 nights waiting for it to pass. When it passes, it was gorgeous. Views to the Olympic mountains and a great story
belowfellow - Feb 10, 2012 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2011
CC
early season, via CC. fun day.
Josh Lewis - Oct 2, 2011 12:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2011
A decent hike
This was a decent hike although the CC would have been nicer if there was snow in it. Oh well, at least had some nice views before the clouds came in when we summited.
Catching up on logs I should've signed years ago. This mountain is an icon, visible from most places in the North Cascades. Great, solid rock on most routes.
Kresser - Jul 21, 2014 12:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2014
Cascade CouloirCar to Car via the Cascade Couloir in a day. The couloir itself was a lot easier than I thought. There wasn't nearly as much loose rock and scree as I was expecting, although a helmet would be recommended still. Still snow above 8,500' to the false summit, but didn't need to go on any snow from the false summit to the true summit. Went too far east on our descent and ended up in the wrong gully (followed a climber's trail down, beware!) Could have been done in hiking/trail running shoes with some microspikes with an ice axe. Great day!
MattDurkee - Jun 8, 2014 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2012
Cascadian CouloirLeft car at ~3:30 AM, back to car at ~8:00 PM. Fought off a mtn. goat with my ice ax. Took left scramble around false summit and then up. Came back down standard route off false summit. Glissaded down from false summit. River running high.
Arkitekt - Sep 26, 2013 1:44 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2013
Cascadian ColourOne Day Climb. Camped at the trailhead and Started at 7am. Hiked up and over and finished the hike at 6pm. Very tough hike about 13 miles RT by my GPS.
After crossing Ingalls Cre
ek on the way up we went Right (SE) along the Ingalls Creek Trail for about .25 miles to a cairn leading up the colour. The brush was a bit rough at first but it worked. On the way down we bypassed that by finding some other route. Couldn't explain it if I tried. It fizzled out and we walked straight through the brush downhill to the trail. Ending up just about 100 feet from the intersection of the trail going back. I don't think I would pick to try the more direct route up even if I could find it. It was a bit steep and the slopes were vegetated.
bedellympian - Sep 15, 2013 1:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2013
CNRComplete North Ridge w/ Gendarme (V 5.9 28 pitches). Cloud cover resulting in low vis and some rain and snow on route led to unplanned bivy on ledge above Gendarme. A great route, long with a mix of wandery low 5th and sustained 5.8/9 climbing.
Mooner - Sep 1, 2013 11:29 am
Up I Go2016-08-14 via Complete North Ridge with Gendarme. Soloed entire upper ridge except Gendarme pitches with Sam
08/27/13 via Complete North Ridge with Gendarme bypass because to started raining just before getting to it.
Dundeel - Jul 22, 2013 10:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2013
CascadianTwo night camp on Ingalls Creek. Wonderful mountain with good weather.
OwenT - Apr 2, 2013 1:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2012
Big MountainMy first of hopefully many major Cascade peaks.
kylefrowe - Jan 3, 2013 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2010
SuccessAwesome views steep scree and snow
juneauhiker - Nov 9, 2012 11:16 am
CascadianA great hike in a beautiful place.
tcingrum - Sep 19, 2012 10:56 pm
StuartCascadian route. Lots of loose rock and dirt.
Diggler - Sep 16, 2012 7:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012
complete N ridge- finally!!!WHAT a route!! When no opportunities opened up with friends, finally found a willing & able partner.
Camped near Ingalls Lake by meadows (would have just gone for the climb as a day climb in retrospect- additional hike back to camp after ascent SUCKED!), which provided stunning views of SW face of Stuart (& far too many obnoxious nocturnal goats).
Started from camp @ 5.20. Still a ways to go before reaching start of route (including a few sketchy snowfield crossings). Off & climbing finally @ 10.05. Belayed first 4 or so pitches of lower ridge before simul'ing to notch. P2 hardest of lower buttress. Simul'ed to Great Gendarme (seems like a misnomer- instead of climbing around the thing, you go straight up it). Successful roshambo meant I got the lead- phenomenal pitch (best of climb, in my opinion)!!! Linked strenuous lieback w/ "off-width" (actually a fist crack for normal-sized folks), then climbed ~50' above that to a 'bivy'/belay ledge. Dropped my brand new camera from notch above the gendarme, which SUCKED :( Made haste after that, as time growing nigh(t)- finally summited @ 20.05. LONG & fatigueing descent down Cascadian Couloir ensued (shitty-non-existent trails to Stuart Pass, then back to camp added to frustrations).
Finally back @ camp @ 3.06- WHAT a day, mountain, climb!!! Thanks, Mark!
droot - Sep 16, 2012 6:11 am Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012
CascadianClimbed via the Cascadian Couloir. Nothing major until the summit ridge is reached, and then some fun class 3 to the summit.
Fires were burning everywhere at the time, and we could see lots of smoke from the summit.
Came down the same way, making our way quickly digging into the soft sand.
kevinsa - Sep 15, 2012 9:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009
Mt. StuartGot off route a little bit, but managed to salvage it. Would like to come back when there are a few less clouds.
JoelSkok - Sep 13, 2012 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 1977
West Ridge routeLoved the experience with my old Boy Scout leader Jack Kinney, Eddie Bolton and his girlfriend. Route finding was an issue but we at last prevailed. Some T-storms in the two days we were on the mountain but we found overhangs to stave off the hard rains. Pace was easy for me, didn't feel challenged.
Vitaliy M. - Aug 19, 2012 3:06 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012
Full North RidgeCar to Car full north ridge with the gendarme. Out from Stuart Lake TH.
ClimberCrabs - Jul 18, 2012 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2011
Cascadian Couloir in the heatClimbed Stuart via the Cascadian Couloir on a very hot weekend. Route was easy enough until we hit the snowfield below the false summit which was snowier than usual and quite slick. Made it up and over to the actual summit and enjoyed a nice nap. Navigating down the snowfield was dicey and one member of our party slipped but was able to arrest before the rocks. Had an awesome campsite in the meadow, probably the best part of the whole trip!
sgiles - Apr 12, 2012 12:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2010
Upper North RidgeClassic climb, amazing exposure and views. We came in from the Ingalls Lake trailhead and went up and over goat pass. bivyed above the glacier and started climbing the next day. A storm rolled in while we were climbing and we ended up bivying on a ledge above the gendarme for 2 nights waiting for it to pass. When it passes, it was gorgeous. Views to the Olympic mountains and a great story
belowfellow - Feb 10, 2012 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2011
CCearly season, via CC. fun day.
Josh Lewis - Oct 2, 2011 12:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2011
A decent hikeThis was a decent hike although the CC would have been nicer if there was snow in it. Oh well, at least had some nice views before the clouds came in when we summited.
relic - Sep 18, 2011 11:06 am
Years agoCatching up on logs I should've signed years ago. This mountain is an icon, visible from most places in the North Cascades. Great, solid rock on most routes.