Mount Stuart Climber's Log
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|sprosseda||Route Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: August 13, 2003|
|Left car at 9am, setup bivi at top of couloir at 7,600 ft. and 2pm, summitted at 6pm, back to bivi at 8pm. Wonderful, quiet, calm and warm night under full moon! Summit is very high with a fun, slabby, dorsal fin tip. Views down to West Horn and North Ridge are awesome. Summit-false summit traverse is enjoyable class 3 scrambling (a few more difficult moves too) but otherwise the couloir is trash. It's fast going down on all the sand though.|
|Posted Sep 10, 2003 11:26 am|
|brandon||Route Climbed: West Ridge with Direct Summit Pyramid Variation Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2003|
|Car to car from Long Pass Trailhead 14 hours. Exciting vertical pitch up behind Long John Tower. 5 or 6 pitches up to about 5.6 on the summit pyramid. Longest scree and talus descent I've ever experienced down the Cascadian Couloir. At least that trail back up over Long Pass is a straight shot. Woohoo..|
|Posted Sep 2, 2003 4:33 pm|
|leejams||Route Climbed: North ridge Date Climbed: July 5th 2003|
|Awesome climb. Views are just Okay but the deal is the fantastic granite . 4 stars for this one.|
|Posted Jul 7, 2003 12:44 am|
|Sean-Scott Ingersoll||Route Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: June 28, 2003|
|We had great weather on summit day, a strong party (10 on the summit, I believe), good rock scrambling and some moderately steep snow slopes...all in all, a fine climb. I will never understand, however, how nine other Mazamas can climb the same route I can and appear no worse for the wear, while I come home looking like I was beaten with sticks, stoned (in the Biblical sense), and eaten alive by mosquitos...|
At least I didn't break anything this time...
|Posted Jul 1, 2003 3:43 pm|
|MikeB||Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July, 2001|
|Attempted route car to car in a day, but summited at dusk. Survived unpleasant and unplanned bivouac (no bivy gear) on summit. |
Did not climb the Great Gendarme section, but instead rapped to climb the 5.7 traverse/slab pitch. Pitch was very icy and unprotectable, but proved to be very enjoyable lead - well worth the trip. Possibly off route on scramble to summit - finished by soloing loose, overhanging 5.10 blocks.
Fun ridge route to climb in boots - mostly high quality granite.
|Posted Dec 26, 2002 2:17 pm|
|Hammer||Route Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 15, 2002|
|After a nice and muggy hike over Long's pass into our camp on Ingall's Creek we were dismayed at seeing a huge crowd of tents and bivis at our desired campsite. However, the camp was empty hopefully signifying that everyone was climbing that day. The next day we headed out just before daybreak and headed up the Cascadian Couloir making great time for a large group of 11. We proclaimed ourselves lucky to have the mountain or at least this route essentially to ourselves. We did get passed up by a fast group of two that we later encountered at the base of the small snowfield. After some exciting and fun 3rd class scrambling we found ourselves atop the summit beating out the incoming weather front. We descended with some speed in hopes of beating the weather back to camp but instead felt the heat. As we returned to camp we were surprised to see that we were the only ones left at our once busy campsite. We settled down and discussed our climb. That night it rained pretty good causing my bivi sack to float atop my tarp. It was liking sleeping on a waterbed. The rained stopped as we got out of bed the next morning and kept us cool on our hike out.|
|Posted Sep 23, 2002 10:02 pm|
|Joe Hanssen||Route Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: Summer '95; Summer '96; Summer '97|
|Summer '95 reached the top in strong winds and thick cloud cover.|
Summer '96 was clear and sunny.
Summer '97 shared the summit block with three mountain goats. Solo
|Posted Jul 29, 2002 9:23 am|
|Fred Spicker||Route Climbed: See below Date Climbed: 1 Feb 1976, 17 July 1976, 31 July 1977, 19 July 1978, & 13 May 1979|
|Feb 1976 via Ice Cliff Glacier with Rick Johnson|
July 1976 via N Ridge with David Coughlin
1977 via N Ridge with Rick Johnson
1978 via Sherpa Glacier with Monica Spicker
1979 via W Ridge with Monica Spicker
The only climb with any irritating difficulties was the winter climb of Ice Cliff Glacier - it took a long time to get through the cornice at the top. I sympathize with "climbit".
|Posted Jul 25, 2002 9:53 pm|
|climbit||Route Climbed: Icecliff Glacier Date Climbed: 5/26/02|
|Great route! Started at 3:30 am from 5400ft basin and went over lower terminal moraine and then straight for the 17th century moraine in the throat of the glacier between the lower North Ridge and the north spur of the East Ridge. Followed route description in this web site. LOTS of icefall and rockfall on the right (west) side of the glacier. Temperatures were on the warm side, so this was to be expected. Snow conditions were crusty and less than styrofoam with a hard layer about 6-8 inches under the crust.|
The icecliff was in gentle form so we soloed until above it and then roped up for the 'schrund crossings and couloir/cornice. The crux for us was the cornice pitch. Attempted (and succeeded) in the direct rock and snow pitch into the cornice. Should have tried the right side snow benches. Took us two hours and two different attempts to defeat the pitch, my partner Matt finally succeeding in dry tooling the thing and then chopping the cornice down enough to beach himself on the other side.
Descent began at 1pm or so and was down a very loose Sherpa Glacier. Lots of small slides on the glacier and icefall/rockfall off the ridges and hanging ice in the valley, mostly off the west side. The east side of the glacier had less overall debris but larger blocks. 12 hours camp to camp on the climb.
|Posted May 31, 2002 10:44 am|
|Toro138||Route Climbed: Ulrichs Date Climbed: Oct or Nov ? 2002|
|Tom Rockwood - I hope you read this! :) We thought we'd go up it in a day, and we did. We also thought the sun wouldn't set until around 6 PM, but it went down at 4:30! It was a long day to say the least - but a fun one! Make sure you bring plenty of webbing for repels and plenty of H20 :) Also, stay way west of the cascadia (I think 3 couloirs at least) to avoid any dead ends unless you are looking for some walls. Longs pass is the way to go if you come in from the Teannaway.|
|Posted Mar 8, 2002 4:02 am|
|scottv||Route Climbed: North Ridge (from/to Teanaway River trailhead) Date Climbed: 8/5-6/01|
|Overly optimistic, Alan and I left the car at 4am with the grand aspiration of being back by midnight. Hah! Stuart tantalized us as we crested Ingalls Pass at dawn, lured us up to Goat Pass, and then inspired us to do the whole ridge (classic lower east start variation). The weather was holding, we filled up on Stuart glacier water 100m from the start at 10am, and 2 climbers (with apparent prior route experience) were just a pitch ahead of us. Beckey was our guide. We couldn't fail.|
The length of the lower ridge was astounding. We spent some time cursing Beckey; his "4th/5th" annotations metamorphosed into endless 5.6-5.7 route finding. We were sure we had made it to the half way mark at least 3 separate times. The rope drag was exhausting. At 9pm we admitted our delusions, and bivied uncomfortably 2 pitches below the gendarme. 1 liter water and 3 bars left after a meager dinner. Thank Buddha/Allah/God/Zeus it didn't rain that night. Mist and fatigue in the dawn light sent us over the edge, rapping in fear from the Gendarme into a wet but tractable traverse into the 4th/5th/3rd class up to the summit (1pm, day2).
The mist cleared just in time for the grueling descent of Cascadia Couloir. This is where Stuart, clearly experienced in the psychological destruction of off-the-couch climbers, took great pleasure in debasing us. Only the two mountain goats heading up the Couloir looked hotter in their mottled fur coats than we felt. Dehydration soon reduced us to stumbling gaits and a Bataan demeanor.
After 4000' down, the creek was absolute bliss. The biting flies hurried us up the easily found Longs Pass trail. We were back at the car at 8:30pm, merely some 20 hours late. Oh, the lessons we learn. Ah, the convincing methods of the mountain teacher.
|Posted Aug 8, 2001 9:52 am|
|Bob Bolton||Route Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 2, 1990|
|Three dads took three 11- and 12-year-old sons to the summit of Stuart from a camp near Ingalls Lake. This is not the approach of choice, as climbing was somewhat of an afterthought to a Labor Day weekend backpack trip to Ingalls Lake. From our camp we had to descend deep into the Ingalls Creek valley south of the mountain. The route begins at the 4800-foot level, making it a 4600 ft+ ascent on mostly rather loose rock. Everyone was ready to quit walking when we returned to the base of the mountain, but we still had the long climb out of the canyon facing us. When we finally dragged into camp, I had no energy for anything including cooking, so forced a few morsels down and hit the sack. It was the most wasted I have ever been in my life.|
|Posted Apr 17, 2001 9:42 pm|