Mount Stuart Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|Fred Spicker||Route Climbed: See below Date Climbed: 1 Feb 1976, 17 July 1976, 31 July 1977, 19 July 1978, & 13 May 1979|
|Feb 1976 via Ice Cliff Glacier with Rick Johnson|
July 1976 via N Ridge with David Coughlin
1977 via N Ridge with Rick Johnson
1978 via Sherpa Glacier with Monica Spicker
1979 via W Ridge with Monica Spicker
The only climb with any irritating difficulties was the winter climb of Ice Cliff Glacier - it took a long time to get through the cornice at the top. I sympathize with "climbit".
|Posted Jul 25, 2002 9:53 pm|
|climbit||Route Climbed: Icecliff Glacier Date Climbed: 5/26/02|
|Great route! Started at 3:30 am from 5400ft basin and went over lower terminal moraine and then straight for the 17th century moraine in the throat of the glacier between the lower North Ridge and the north spur of the East Ridge. Followed route description in this web site. LOTS of icefall and rockfall on the right (west) side of the glacier. Temperatures were on the warm side, so this was to be expected. Snow conditions were crusty and less than styrofoam with a hard layer about 6-8 inches under the crust.|
The icecliff was in gentle form so we soloed until above it and then roped up for the 'schrund crossings and couloir/cornice. The crux for us was the cornice pitch. Attempted (and succeeded) in the direct rock and snow pitch into the cornice. Should have tried the right side snow benches. Took us two hours and two different attempts to defeat the pitch, my partner Matt finally succeeding in dry tooling the thing and then chopping the cornice down enough to beach himself on the other side.
Descent began at 1pm or so and was down a very loose Sherpa Glacier. Lots of small slides on the glacier and icefall/rockfall off the ridges and hanging ice in the valley, mostly off the west side. The east side of the glacier had less overall debris but larger blocks. 12 hours camp to camp on the climb.
|Posted May 31, 2002 10:44 am|
|Toro138||Route Climbed: Ulrichs Date Climbed: Oct or Nov ? 2002|
|Tom Rockwood - I hope you read this! :) We thought we'd go up it in a day, and we did. We also thought the sun wouldn't set until around 6 PM, but it went down at 4:30! It was a long day to say the least - but a fun one! Make sure you bring plenty of webbing for repels and plenty of H20 :) Also, stay way west of the cascadia (I think 3 couloirs at least) to avoid any dead ends unless you are looking for some walls. Longs pass is the way to go if you come in from the Teannaway.|
|Posted Mar 8, 2002 4:02 am|
|scottv||Route Climbed: North Ridge (from/to Teanaway River trailhead) Date Climbed: 8/5-6/01|
|Overly optimistic, Alan and I left the car at 4am with the grand aspiration of being back by midnight. Hah! Stuart tantalized us as we crested Ingalls Pass at dawn, lured us up to Goat Pass, and then inspired us to do the whole ridge (classic lower east start variation). The weather was holding, we filled up on Stuart glacier water 100m from the start at 10am, and 2 climbers (with apparent prior route experience) were just a pitch ahead of us. Beckey was our guide. We couldn't fail.|
The length of the lower ridge was astounding. We spent some time cursing Beckey; his "4th/5th" annotations metamorphosed into endless 5.6-5.7 route finding. We were sure we had made it to the half way mark at least 3 separate times. The rope drag was exhausting. At 9pm we admitted our delusions, and bivied uncomfortably 2 pitches below the gendarme. 1 liter water and 3 bars left after a meager dinner. Thank Buddha/Allah/God/Zeus it didn't rain that night. Mist and fatigue in the dawn light sent us over the edge, rapping in fear from the Gendarme into a wet but tractable traverse into the 4th/5th/3rd class up to the summit (1pm, day2).
The mist cleared just in time for the grueling descent of Cascadia Couloir. This is where Stuart, clearly experienced in the psychological destruction of off-the-couch climbers, took great pleasure in debasing us. Only the two mountain goats heading up the Couloir looked hotter in their mottled fur coats than we felt. Dehydration soon reduced us to stumbling gaits and a Bataan demeanor.
After 4000' down, the creek was absolute bliss. The biting flies hurried us up the easily found Longs Pass trail. We were back at the car at 8:30pm, merely some 20 hours late. Oh, the lessons we learn. Ah, the convincing methods of the mountain teacher.
|Posted Aug 8, 2001 9:52 am|
|Bob Bolton||Route Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 2, 1990|
|Three dads took three 11- and 12-year-old sons to the summit of Stuart from a camp near Ingalls Lake. This is not the approach of choice, as climbing was somewhat of an afterthought to a Labor Day weekend backpack trip to Ingalls Lake. From our camp we had to descend deep into the Ingalls Creek valley south of the mountain. The route begins at the 4800-foot level, making it a 4600 ft+ ascent on mostly rather loose rock. Everyone was ready to quit walking when we returned to the base of the mountain, but we still had the long climb out of the canyon facing us. When we finally dragged into camp, I had no energy for anything including cooking, so forced a few morsels down and hit the sack. It was the most wasted I have ever been in my life.|
|Posted Apr 17, 2001 9:42 pm|