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setrentRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir, North Ridge Gendarm Variation Date Climbed: July, 1997/29 July, 2004  Sucess!
The North Ridge's classic reputation is fairly earned. The position and rock make this is one of the best climbs I have done.

Posted Dec 26, 2005 10:15 pm

younkinRoute Climbed: Sherpa Glacier Solo Mark Weigilt and Jay Osseander Date Climbed: March 1971

younkin

We snowshoed into Stuart Lake then climbed up the main Gully to Stuart Glacier. Jay and Mark were trying to climb the North Ridge so I went off to climb Sherpa Glacier by myself. We waited out a storm in a snow cave and I started out on the 4th day, I got to the top of Sherpa Glacier and stayed in a small snow cave. The next morning the Mountain was socked in and I was out of matches, I retreated from the top of the Glacier. On the way back down the Gully above Stuart lake we were in an avalanche, we all survived. Later that year Mark was killed while climbing Ice Cliff Glacier by a Rock Slide. Jay went on to climb the North Ridge in Winter a few years later.
Posted Nov 5, 2005 4:20 am

younkinRoute Climbed: North Ridge with Laurie Fink, Larry Weis and Russ Truman Date Climbed: summer 1970  Sucess!

younkin

We hiked in early from the parking lot to Mountianeer Creek Basin, we climbed the North Ridge and were on top by nightfall, we slept (sort of) on the ledges below the summit and descended via Sherpa Glacier. The Glissade below the Crevasse was Great. Russ and Larry got a little wet on the descent due to bad route finding.
Posted Nov 5, 2005 4:10 am

younkinRoute Climbed: Sherpa Glacier with Peter Hauch, Randy Asplund and Gerd the wonder dog. Date Climbed: Summer 1970  Sucess!

younkin

We camped in Mountianeer Creek Basin, we all climbed the Sherpa Glacier Route, Gerd The Wonder Dog only got to the False Summit, he was eyeballed by a Eagle. Gerd stole some cheese from Peter during a rest stop on the way out.
Posted Nov 5, 2005 3:46 am

younkinRoute Climbed: Sherpa Glacier with Bill Lingley Date Climbed: summer 1969

younkin

This was my first time on the mountain, we hiked in the night before to Stuart Lake slept there then climbed up a rock slide and dropped into Mountaineer Creek Basin. We got to the top of Sherpa Glacier but it got late and we decided against a night on the Mountain.
Posted Nov 5, 2005 3:41 am

jmhickmanRoute Climbed: Cascade Couloir Date Climbed: August 2005  Sucess!
GREAT climb! Two day trip with a party of three climbers. Afternoon hike into bas camp in the valley just below the couloir. Deer fearlessly walked through our camp and a hot meal prepped us for an 6:15AM departure.



Climbing up the entrance to the couloir was easy once we identified the forest trail. Once out of the skree it was an enjoyable scramble up to the false summit. We stayed left of the snowfield and crossed above with a short belay for safety. Spectacular views over the false summit to the true summit. The ridge between the two was clear of snow and we scrambled across, just below the ridgeline. Final pitch up to the summit overlooked Stuart Lake for a beautiful view. The local mountain goat approached in an attempt to bum some trail mix, but settled for some tasty lichen instead.



The return trip was brutal. Down to base camp for a quick pack -up and a long painful trudge back to the cars. Fianl arrival at 10:30PM and a drive back to Seattle! I would recommend a second night or an earlier departure on summit day.



GREAT CLIMB. Amazing Views! Very few climbers! ENJOY!
Posted Nov 2, 2005 9:34 pm

POWERJLRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: August, 2000  Sucess!
2 days, camped in Ingalls Creek basin. 2nd time on-top. Snow patches near the top of the Couloir.



Jeff Power

Dave Hart

Weiss-Young

Posted Aug 18, 2005 12:07 pm

RoadsteadRoute Climbed: North Ridge, not just half Date Climbed: July 17 2005  Sucess!

Roadstead

Tried to do a one day car to car. Started at the Stuart Lake trail head (after leaving a car at Long's Pass trail head ) at 3:00 am, reached summit at 8:30 pm. Spent the night in the open at about 8,000 feet. It was a 32 hours car to car.
Posted Aug 2, 2005 9:47 am

rpcRoute Climbed: North Ridge (upper with Gendarme) Date Climbed: July 30, 2005  Sucess!

rpc

Nice route. Did it over a 3-day weekend (camp to camp below Ingalls Lake). Started from camp at 1:30 am. Napped under space blanked before Stuart Glacier for an hour. Stuart Glacier crossing was kinda sketchy with the lightweight approach shoes and light crampons. Got to notch at 7am. Topped out at 1:30pm. Knife-edge traverse was the best part of the climb (pitch 1 of Gendarme was also very good; pitch 2 OW was harder). Only one other party on route. Descent down CC took a long time and sucked (hard on the knees)! Were back in tent at 7pm. Hiked out Sunday morning.

PS Running water available from snowfield just below summit on descent. No other running water was encountered (snow patches just below bivy sites at the notch though).

PPS Putting things in perspective: here. Impressive!!!
Posted Aug 1, 2005 8:50 pm

Martin CashRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July 3, 2005  Sucess!

Martin Cash

Attempted complete NR, but completed only the upper ridge. An excellent alpine ridge climb. The hand traverse sections are really spectacular. Trip Report Here
Posted Jul 12, 2005 11:50 am

mntnrmichaelRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: May 22, 2005  Sucess!

mntnrmichael

A long climb, rain, snow, and moderate wind made for an interesting day. My friend and I were strong.



A great mountain.
Posted May 22, 2005 6:27 pm

John PaulRoute Climbed: Stuart Glacier Couloir Date Climbed: May 8th 2004  Sucess!
Awesome route. Not much ice...
Posted Oct 6, 2004 4:23 pm

John PaulRoute Climbed: Girth Pillar: rock fall variation Date Climbed: July 3 2004  Sucess!
Climbed crack system to the climber's left of Nelson's original line. Pure granite pornography.

Posted Oct 6, 2004 4:21 pm

tloganRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 2 2004

tlogan

Got about 1/2 of the way up the couloir before the foot of fresh snow and the unending storm forced us to turn around... will return to summit this peak in the near future.
Posted Sep 3, 2004 9:12 pm

jtostenrRoute Climbed: Ulrich's/Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: August 21, 2004  Sucess!

jtostenr

We left the trailhead at 6PM Friday and headed over Longs Pass. Got to campsite next to creek at 9PM and went to bed early. We hit the trail at 6AM and went looking for the Cascadian Couloir. None of us had ever climbed Mt Stuart before and had a little trouble finding the correct couloir. We ended up ascending Ulrich's Couloir and crossing over to the Cascadian Couloir about 3/4 the way up. Summit ridge was mostly Class 3 with a couple Class 4 spots. Summited about noon and descended the Cascadian Couloir. Very rocky and dusty, but a good trip nonetheless.
Posted Aug 22, 2004 4:34 am

Derek FranzenRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July 4/5 1981  Sucess!

Derek Franzen

With E Sandbo & T Rashko. Drove over to TH Friday after work. Hiked in to flat spot in trail in dark and slept next to small creek. Up at 4am and hiked over Ingalls, Goat and Stuart Passes. Crossed glacier and climbed gully to ridge. Refilled water bottles from snowmelt. Ridge climbing good 4th and easy 5th class to Gendarme. Avoided Gendarme with rappel to slabs to the W. Couple of 5th class moves up slabs then scramble to summit. Bivy on summit, low on water but not on food. Tim had backpack full of peanutbutter & margerine sandwiches, Eric had plenty of dried bananas, I had peanut M&Ms and cheese. I climbed into bivy sack and started to dine while buddies threw rocks at Snafflehounds. One Snafflehound wanted to share M&Ms and jumped on my chest where food was, Snafflehound was launched into orbit. Descent of Cascade Couloir long and dry, no water. Halfway down talus balanced boulder, no longer balanced when I climbed on it, trundled over me, split back of scalp and boulder rolled over booted foot. Bandaged head but decided not to take boot off. Finally reached Ingalls Creek must of drank 2 quarts of water. Day turned extremely hot on climb up Longs Pass, thankfully we ran out of water but not peanutbutter & margerine sandwiches.
Posted Aug 15, 2004 9:19 am

esugiRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 22, 2003  Sucess!

esugi

What a long slog! Left the trailhead around 4 am reaching the base of Cascadian Couloir at around 6 am. Long slog up the couloir. Obviously no snow this late in the season. Just plenty of rock, scree, dirt, sand, etc. Summitted at 11 am.



Pretty fun towards the top with class 3 (I'd say some class 4) rock to the summit.



Descent was uneventful and made it back to the car at 6pm. See my photo submissions.



Posted Mar 1, 2004 1:04 pm

MoniRoute Climbed: West Ridge/ Sherpa Glacier Date Climbed: Jul 19, 1978 & May 13, 1979  Sucess!

Moni

With Fred both times. Need to go back and do the North Ridge.
Posted Nov 15, 2003 8:57 am

jasonconnellRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 20th 2003  Sucess!

jasonconnell

Climbed with a group of 7 from Starbucks.

Great trip,

Left the trailhead at 4:45am, reached the summit after 7 hours.

After over an hour on the summit we headed down.

Great weather, over all the climb is a big slog until you are near the top.
Posted Sep 24, 2003 9:41 pm

sprossedaRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: August 13, 2003  Sucess!

sprosseda

Left car at 9am, setup bivi at top of couloir at 7,600 ft. and 2pm, summitted at 6pm, back to bivi at 8pm. Wonderful, quiet, calm and warm night under full moon! Summit is very high with a fun, slabby, dorsal fin tip. Views down to West Horn and North Ridge are awesome. Summit-false summit traverse is enjoyable class 3 scrambling (a few more difficult moves too) but otherwise the couloir is trash. It's fast going down on all the sand though.
Posted Sep 10, 2003 11:26 am

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