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sprossedaRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: August 13, 2003  Sucess!


Left car at 9am, setup bivi at top of couloir at 7,600 ft. and 2pm, summitted at 6pm, back to bivi at 8pm. Wonderful, quiet, calm and warm night under full moon! Summit is very high with a fun, slabby, dorsal fin tip. Views down to West Horn and North Ridge are awesome. Summit-false summit traverse is enjoyable class 3 scrambling (a few more difficult moves too) but otherwise the couloir is trash. It's fast going down on all the sand though.
Posted Sep 10, 2003 11:26 am

brandonRoute Climbed: West Ridge with Direct Summit Pyramid Variation Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2003  Sucess!


Car to car from Long Pass Trailhead 14 hours. Exciting vertical pitch up behind Long John Tower. 5 or 6 pitches up to about 5.6 on the summit pyramid. Longest scree and talus descent I've ever experienced down the Cascadian Couloir. At least that trail back up over Long Pass is a straight shot. Woohoo..
Posted Sep 2, 2003 4:33 pm

leejamsRoute Climbed: North ridge Date Climbed: July 5th 2003  Sucess!


Awesome climb. Views are just Okay but the deal is the fantastic granite . 4 stars for this one.
Posted Jul 7, 2003 12:44 am

MikeBRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July, 2001  Sucess!


Attempted route car to car in a day, but summited at dusk. Survived unpleasant and unplanned bivouac (no bivy gear) on summit.

Did not climb the Great Gendarme section, but instead rapped to climb the 5.7 traverse/slab pitch. Pitch was very icy and unprotectable, but proved to be very enjoyable lead - well worth the trip. Possibly off route on scramble to summit - finished by soloing loose, overhanging 5.10 blocks.

Fun ridge route to climb in boots - mostly high quality granite.
Posted Dec 26, 2002 2:17 pm

HammerRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 15, 2002  Sucess!


After a nice and muggy hike over Long's pass into our camp on Ingall's Creek we were dismayed at seeing a huge crowd of tents and bivis at our desired campsite. However, the camp was empty hopefully signifying that everyone was climbing that day. The next day we headed out just before daybreak and headed up the Cascadian Couloir making great time for a large group of 11. We proclaimed ourselves lucky to have the mountain or at least this route essentially to ourselves. We did get passed up by a fast group of two that we later encountered at the base of the small snowfield. After some exciting and fun 3rd class scrambling we found ourselves atop the summit beating out the incoming weather front. We descended with some speed in hopes of beating the weather back to camp but instead felt the heat. As we returned to camp we were surprised to see that we were the only ones left at our once busy campsite. We settled down and discussed our climb. That night it rained pretty good causing my bivi sack to float atop my tarp. It was liking sleeping on a waterbed. The rained stopped as we got out of bed the next morning and kept us cool on our hike out.
Posted Sep 23, 2002 10:02 pm

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: Summer '95; Summer '96; Summer '97  Sucess!

Joe Hanssen

Summer '95 reached the top in strong winds and thick cloud cover.

Summer '96 was clear and sunny.

Summer '97 shared the summit block with three mountain goats. Solo
Posted Jul 29, 2002 9:23 am

climbitRoute Climbed: Icecliff Glacier Date Climbed: 5/26/02  Sucess!


Great route! Started at 3:30 am from 5400ft basin and went over lower terminal moraine and then straight for the 17th century moraine in the throat of the glacier between the lower North Ridge and the north spur of the East Ridge. Followed route description in this web site. LOTS of icefall and rockfall on the right (west) side of the glacier. Temperatures were on the warm side, so this was to be expected. Snow conditions were crusty and less than styrofoam with a hard layer about 6-8 inches under the crust.

The icecliff was in gentle form so we soloed until above it and then roped up for the 'schrund crossings and couloir/cornice. The crux for us was the cornice pitch. Attempted (and succeeded) in the direct rock and snow pitch into the cornice. Should have tried the right side snow benches. Took us two hours and two different attempts to defeat the pitch, my partner Matt finally succeeding in dry tooling the thing and then chopping the cornice down enough to beach himself on the other side.

Descent began at 1pm or so and was down a very loose Sherpa Glacier. Lots of small slides on the glacier and icefall/rockfall off the ridges and hanging ice in the valley, mostly off the west side. The east side of the glacier had less overall debris but larger blocks. 12 hours camp to camp on the climb.
Posted May 31, 2002 10:44 am

Bob BoltonRoute Climbed: Cascadian Couloir Date Climbed: September 2, 1990  Sucess!

Bob Bolton

Three dads took three 11- and 12-year-old sons to the summit of Stuart from a camp near Ingalls Lake. This is not the approach of choice, as climbing was somewhat of an afterthought to a Labor Day weekend backpack trip to Ingalls Lake. From our camp we had to descend deep into the Ingalls Creek valley south of the mountain. The route begins at the 4800-foot level, making it a 4600 ft+ ascent on mostly rather loose rock. Everyone was ready to quit walking when we returned to the base of the mountain, but we still had the long climb out of the canyon facing us. When we finally dragged into camp, I had no energy for anything including cooking, so forced a few morsels down and hit the sack. It was the most wasted I have ever been in my life.
Posted Apr 17, 2001 9:42 pm

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