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laurelWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2009


Camped at Ingalls Pass, which turned out to be a bit far from the West Ridge (we aren't the earliest risers or fastest hikers), especially since we did the full West Ridge instead of the second gully. Got to the summit at 6. Bivied in the trees at 7000 ft in the Cascadian Couloir.
Posted Jul 2, 2009 7:54 pm

gcapWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2009


Still a lot of snow on approach and on route. Climbed with Denny - some 5.6 variations. Great day, great weather, horrible descent via the cascadian. Ascent gully to summit in 7 hours.
Posted Jun 29, 2009 12:11 pm

live2climb90Cascadian Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2009


Camped at Longs Pass, left at 5 in the morning for a hard day. Finally reached the summit at about 1:30 to nice skies and good weather, and about an hour into the descent a thunderstorm rolled in really quick. I was at the top of the couloir when the false summit was struck by lightning, and I booked it down to Ingalls Creek as fast as I could. From there I waited out the thunderstorm for about 2 hours until returning to my camp at Longs pass. It was a hard day, the snow was soft which was slow going. The final summit ridge had some incredible views, but be careful to stay away from the old cornices and away from the north side as much as possible... its a long way down there. I would recommend bringing someone else along because it is really steep and rocky, and it would have been nice to have a little extra security.
Posted Jun 14, 2009 3:12 pm

Tom FralichIce Cliff Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2009

Tom Fralich

Bill Ayers and I climbed this route from a camp at 5,200 ft. The conditions on the route were perfect. We did a few pitches on steep ice through the ice cliff, then negotiated some crevasses and the bergschrund, and simul-climbed the couloir to the ridge. We slogged up the ridge in soft snow to the summit and then descended the Sherpa Glacier. The snow on the descent was soft, but we made quick progress downclimbing. Very interesting route and descent. Terrible approach.
Posted Jun 9, 2009 8:24 pm

Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2008


This was my first attempt at mountainiering. We made it to the false summit via the Cascadian before I ran out of talent, time and courage. I have now overcome my fear of heights and the true summit is only a trailhead access away.
Posted Feb 6, 2009 10:55 pm

TRPComplete North Ridge  Sucess!


My wife and I climbed the complete North ridge and the gendarme. Doing the Complete ridge is much longer than going up the gully, but it has some of the best climbing. We climbed the Gendarme as well, well worth it. We did have a mini epic though, as we descended the Ulrich coulior in the dark. Don't do this! The descent ended up taking as much time as the climb.
Posted Dec 4, 2008 11:45 am

BKWLate Season CC
Date Climbed: Oct 11, 2008


We waited a bit too long to climb this one. The snow level was around 8,000 feet. The summit ridge was caked in ice and there wasn't enough snow to fill in the cracks. We turned back about five steps after the false summit. The crappy conditions on the ridge were offset by the gold larches and other fall colors. The weather was perfect.
Posted Oct 13, 2008 12:57 pm

BuckarooComplete N Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2001


Climbed complete N ridge with James L. Approach Teannaway, alti read 6660 at toe. Bivy at notch, did gendarme and down Cascadian. Death march to car. Used Guide 10's whole way, nice.
Posted Oct 4, 2008 11:05 am

BuckarooIce Cliff Glacier Solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 13, 1994


3 hard days, bivied in snow cave at base of route. Deep unconsolidated snow on entire North approach and 1/2 way up route, trouble getting across schrunds and crevasses. Huge overhanging cornice at top of couloir. Did 5.7 30' rock on right, dry tool, very gripped. Descend Sherpa.
Posted Oct 4, 2008 11:02 am

BuckarooNW Ridge Solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 1992


Done in 3 easy days from Teannaway, intended to do the W ridge but mistakenly started at Goat pass instead, bivied just above pass and on summit, down Cascadian. Fun route. Rats and Picas at bivies.
Posted Oct 4, 2008 10:56 am

mybackyardWest Ridge Solo  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2008


Perfect weather and fantastic granite. The descent down Cascadian Couloir is the most physically demanding and time consuming portion of the climb. Overall a fine day.
Posted Sep 30, 2008 10:55 am

seanoCascadian Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006


Great peak, but lots of loose slogging.
Posted Sep 5, 2008 2:46 pm

pkrebsCascadian Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2008


Took a variation of the Cascadian Couloir route. Route snow-free at this point. Careful of extremely loose rocks below the false summit. This was a physically challenging trip but very rewarding.
Posted Aug 11, 2008 2:34 pm

nigelmccNo blisters this time  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2008


Excellent snow coverage, with minimal route finding problems (although we had to stop and think a few times). Despite the lack of technical challenge, the route proved to fun and demanding. I look forward to returning via Stuart Glacier Couloir or West Ridge next year.

p.s. Kyle keep on your exercise regimen!
Posted Jun 30, 2008 6:25 pm

Kyle BissellThe never ending couloir
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2008

Kyle Bissell

Woke up around 3AM and were headed for the Cascadian Couloir by 4. The weather was unusually crappy for this time of the year and was very cold on the ascent. By the time I reached the false summit I was exhausted and not in shape to ascend the final, steeper snowfield to the true summit so I stayed at the false summit while my friends ascended the final part. The weather got sunny while I was waiting and I finally got warm, which made the opportunity to nap with a mountain goat a pretty cool one
Posted Jun 20, 2008 4:39 pm

Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2007


It was 90 degrees at Longs Pass, which made my feet sweat in my mountaineering boots (WHY DIDN'T I BRING APPROACH SHOES??). My feet were completely raw and blistered by the time we had approached the couloir. My feet barely recovered in time for Rainier. We hope to attempt again in October '07
Posted Sep 24, 2007 12:46 am

PantilatWest Ridge Speed Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2007


8 hours roundtrip for Mount Stuart's West Ridge route (descending Cascadian Couloir). I enjoyed this route and the clear and crisp mid-September weather.
Posted Sep 23, 2007 2:31 am

RomaKCascadian Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2007


Nice two day climb with 6 other people. Camped by the creek half a mile or less from the start of the trail up the couloir. Incredible views on from the higher slopes of the mountain. Recommend a quick digression to go to a little pass that becomes visible after the top of the couloir. Only about 100 ft off to the right from the main path, and the view of Sherpa Peak is amazing. We were lured there by a mountain goat and its child, who were hanging around. Snowfield below false summit had all but melted out, with two steep patches remaining. Rather sketchy and extremely loose getting up to the false summit. Fun scramble to the true summit from there though.
Posted Sep 18, 2007 5:34 am

jordansahlsWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007


Long climb on mixed rock, sometimes solid, sometimes crappy, fun all around climb.
Posted Sep 12, 2007 12:35 pm

bacrossmanWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007


It was hot, and heat exhaustion sucks... Good climb though.
Posted Sep 10, 2007 1:38 pm

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