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Mount Thielsen Climber's Log

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uap304Thunderous Thielsen


A weekend to remember. One of the last trips before heading off to college. Took off for a weekend at Diamond Lake with a side-trip summit of Thielsen in the works. Not long after we made it past the tree line, ominous clouds gathered and let loose with the loudest, closest cloudburst I've ever witnessed. NOT a good time to be on the "lightning rod of the Cascades..." We sprint/screed down for cover in the trees until the hail passed. Upon returning to camp we found a small creek running through our site and mounds of hail piled up against our tent. You may have won this round, Thielsen, but I will be back to claim you some day.
Posted Apr 4, 2006 6:40 pm

cdogwinter ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2005


great winter route, can be easily done in a day by competent group:

trip report

Posted Feb 25, 2006 2:27 am

Aaron SmithRoute Climbed: southern Date Climbed: September 17, 2005  Sucess!
My first.
Posted Jan 23, 2006 2:52 pm

markmayRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: June 25 2005  Sucess!


Cool Summit pitch
Posted Dec 8, 2005 9:07 pm

2skinnersRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 25, 2005 (Unsuccessful)


This was my first "climb" of any of the mountains I have tried to summit. I am relatively new to scrambling up the side of a mountain using all four extremities. I made it up to chicken point and called it good, as I wasn't completely comfortable climbing the rest of the way without ropes or more class 4 experience. I will try this one again next year after I have climbed a few others and feel a little more comfortable. It was a great day though for climbing and there were only about 7 others that my friend and I saw on the trail that day. I need to add that he made it to the top.
Posted Oct 4, 2005 1:45 pm

Rick KentRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2005  Sucess!

Rick Kent

Great peak! The short section of class 4 on top was very fun (but too short!). Carried only a very light hydration pack. Roundtrip time was about 5 hrs. Talked briefly with Peter and his wife (or some couple anyway) on my way down. Use solid rock wherever possible to avoid the loose stuff. The loose stuff was more of a problem on the way down. Weather was excellent.
Posted Aug 17, 2005 8:25 pm

PeterOrthRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 12 2005  Sucess!
Fun climb! No skeeters this time around. Made it to the last 80ft, and climbed up with the wife. Not too scary if you can find the correct route. Hint for new climbers: about halfway up, look right/south around a boulder for the easy way up.

Rapped off the top, and the wife did great! The descent is made much easier if you stay on the ridge. We saw too many people too far to the south, on the sketchy scree. Trekking poles help.

Kudos to Brian Jenkins for some good beta on the climb via email. I love that about SP--you can email the experts for advice.


Posted Aug 16, 2005 9:59 am

artgRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 6, 2005  Sucess!


Camped out near trailhead on Tuesday night after a long drive from Portland; the mosquitoes where buzzing around the tent all night! Woke up early the next day and headed for the summit under dense clouds. Looking down while climbing the summit pinnacle made my sphincter tighten at times but reached the summit without much difficulty. The early morning clouds dispersed allowing a great view of Diamond Lake. Overall, an enjoyable climb.
Posted Aug 3, 2005 11:14 pm

Dave KRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 16, 2005  Sucess!

Dave K

I thoroughly enjoyed this climb. The scree wasn't nearly as bad as I imagined. A use trail cuts through it. Stick to the west ridge use trails for as long as possible.

The summit block was a lot of fun!
Posted Jul 17, 2005 11:53 pm

leftfieldRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: May 30, 2005  Sucess!


Had always climbed it late season so snow most of the way was a treat. Peerlessly sunny day. GPSed our way right to the ridge. My climbing partner had plastic boots he'd brought along for Shasta and slick tennis shoes so.......he climbed the pinnacle barefoot. Fourth time up.
Posted Jun 11, 2005 6:55 pm

Dow WilliamsRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: March, 2005  Sucess!

Dow Williams

We (wife and dog ascended to the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) intersection

for a family picnic) hiked in 4 miles to the PCT. With snow on the ground, you can lose the

trail. But you are basically ascending due east gaining a north-south ridge perpendicular to the

southwest summit ridge. You intersect the PCT at this point. I skinned up in back country

skis until the rock exposed final 1000' (top right). The scree was frozen making for an easy

steep hike at this point until the last 200' which was an exposed scramble that some will require

rope for.

I don't necessary recommend skies. For a faster round trip, with snow conditions I was faced with, I would just take crampons (in case there is ice towards the summit). I had snowshoes, skis, skins, TV, kitchen sink....kind of felt like I was on an expedition, but hey, the Cascades are not my back yard, so I did not know what to expect. On to Shasta!

Posted May 10, 2005 12:04 am

jdavies212Route Climbed: Four-mile trail to summit Date Climbed: 20 April 1972  Sucess!


Month and year correct, but actual day is approx. Myself and five other college senior guys. More full account in "trip reports."
Posted Apr 23, 2005 7:52 am

Dennis PoulinRoute Climbed: Standard route Date Climbed: 5 July 1999  Sucess!

Dennis Poulin

One of my first climbs. There was still snow below the ridgeline, so it was crosscountry through the forest up to the ridgeline. I was the only one on the summit this day.
Posted Mar 26, 2005 8:04 pm

Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: March 13, 2005  Sucess!

Brian Jenkins

With Mr. Kantola. Spindrift on the ridge. 50 mph winds on the summit. I think the summit pinnacle was swaying. Off route and separated on the descent. Other than that, perfect! My fifth Cascade volcano winter attempt and second summit.
Posted Mar 14, 2005 1:15 am

dkantolaRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: March 13, 2005  Sucess!


Posted Mar 14, 2005 12:10 am

onandupwardsRoute Climbed: West ridge Date Climbed: 7/21/03  Sucess!


Nice climb - 4.5 hrs up, 3.5 hours down.

Was the summit spire moving back and forth ? On top I got a little woozy with just the 3-5 boulders underneath. Hot Springs at Toktee erased the memory of all the scree on the way down.
Posted Jan 22, 2005 11:25 pm

onandupwardsRoute Climbed: West ridge Date Climbed: 7/21/03  Sucess!


Nice climb - 4.5 hrs up, 3.5 hours down.

Was the summit spire moving back and forth ? On top I got a little woozy with just the 3-5 boulders underneath. Hot Springs at Toktee erased the memory of all the scree on the way down.
Posted Jan 22, 2005 11:24 pm

PawkalaRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: September 27, 2004  Sucess!


Great climb on a beutiful day. Only saw 3 other people and had very little wind at the top. The class 3-4 climb was really fun. It was pretty easy, and that is coming from a guy who has little rock climbing background. We did have a little experience with falling rock, caused by our party. We had one of the larger boulders near the summit go crashing down when we were testing for rappel anchor points. Pretty amazing experince, although not one I would like to relive. Just be careful of those huge rocks that look like they are stationary.
Posted Sep 29, 2004 4:21 pm

birdheadRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: 08/15/04  Sucess!


Uneventful climb except for making the mistake of trying to climb the west ridge proper for the last 80ft or so. Lot's of exposure and more like 5.5 or so. After climbing up 30ft I was faced with an exposed move and decided I had better downclimb and accept defeat. Before heading down though I decided to check out the other side of the summit block and was pleased to find the class 3/4 route that is typically mentioned. Climbed this to the summit without incident.
Posted Aug 26, 2004 1:04 am

Don NelsenRoute Climbed: west ridge Date Climbed: July 20, 2004  Sucess!

Don Nelsen

I had business in the little town of Glide and finished up at four and headed for my next meeting in Klamath Falls so made a last minute decision to give Thielsen a try. Five or six years ago I hiked up to the PCT junction but was stopped by deep snow (not to mention the formidable appearance of this mountain!). Tuesday, 7/20 was a great day with a large high pressure system moving in and clearing skies so the conditions couldn't have been better. I didn't really think I'd make the summit since I didn't get started 'til quarter past five but the trail is in great shape with a very even grade so the first four miles to the PCT junction took less than an hour. The trail above the PCT is pretty good too until you get to the scree. This mountain looks very formidable from the west side but is really not that bad and I was surprised to find it fairly easy going as I approached the summit pinnacle. That last 80 feet has some exposure but the holds are great. There was little wind and the summit temperature was in the 50's. I lost my GPS at the summit when it fell out of my fanny pack and didn't discover it was gone until I had descended about 500 vertical feet so I got to climb the top twice! Unfortunately, I did not locate the GPS, which had evidently fallen down between some of those big rocks at the summit. No time for a thorough search as I was rapidly losing daylight. Time for a new GPS anyway! Total time up about 2:10 and 1:15 down. Adding the time at the top and the time to re-climb the top made it 4:10 total. I highly recommend this hike/climb. The views are fantastic from the summit and you can even see a bit of the surface of Crater Lake from the top. Oh yeah, if you find my GPS before it gets zapped by lightning I'll give you a reward to get it back to me - please drop me a line! Thanks - dn.

Posted Jul 26, 2004 11:42 pm

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