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Mount Thielsen Climber's Log

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bmwboarder7Epic Adventure


We snowshoed into treeline in the dead of winter, and dug a snow cave for the night. In the morning we headed for the summit. We ended up ditching our snowboards because of avalanche danger. Then we had to ditch our snowshoes for crampons towards the end as it got steep. Finally we were ice climbing towards the top when we realized it was getting dark, and clouds were moving in. We climbed down (were within 30 ft of the summit) but too slowly, we were caught in a storm. After hours of searching for our stuff, we ended up plowing down towards the treeline for protection. We couldn't find our snowshoes, or our snowcave with our bags. Luckily we had a shovel, so we dug a new cave which we still froze inside (15F). We survived with minor frostbite on one of my toes, and luckily it was sunny the next day so I was able to go back up and find our gear and head home.
Posted Jul 20, 2007 11:31 pm

thundercloudWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2002


Fun scramble on top.
Posted May 25, 2007 5:27 pm

ibndalightWest Ridge Winter Ascent
Date Climbed: Jan 30, 2006


Had a great time the route is amazing on the west ridge. Was sick with a chest cold and decied to turn around on the ridge. Stars just went aligned right.
Posted Feb 1, 2007 9:29 pm

highicewinter  Sucess!
nice 5 th class route with some rock fall. climbed in white-out, but cleared in time for a great view!
Posted Feb 1, 2007 8:04 pm

Matthew HollimanWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006

Matthew Holliman

Short hike with a fun scramble up the summit block--much better rock than I was expecting, especially after the loose choss on Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Washington. With Bob and Rick, the last peak of a tour of the OR Cascades.
Posted Dec 1, 2006 3:23 am

AndinistalocoStandard route I suppose  Sucess!


Good hike with a fun little scramble at the end. Check out the lightning marks on the summit!
Posted Oct 17, 2006 10:47 pm

calebEOCCulmination of a summer  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2006


The Oregon mountain that most caught my eye when I first started browsing this website several years ago was Mt Thielsen. All summer I put off climbing this one, somewhat intimidated by the climb at the top, after asking Dean and Larry (cascadetraveler) what they thought of the spire I decided to give 'er a shot (thanks for the advice guys!).

The first 3.5 miles went quick, not much elevation gain; the trail was well groomed and easy to follow. The next mile and a half up the ridgeline was a lot of fun. Some places it was so steep I was down on all fours doing all I could to not slide down the mountainside. At the base of the pinnacle I ran into a group of awesome UO instructors who graciously offered me the use of their rope which I declined. The climb up and down the pinnacle was a breeze, much, much easier than I built it up to be over a summer of planning on doing this. I am ecstatic to have finally climbed Thielsen, what a great year of hiking this has been.

09/25/2010: Climbed with my brother who hadnt been up here before. Still a fun climb, easier than I remembered!
Posted Oct 2, 2006 1:01 am

Bob BurdWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006

Bob Burd

Climbed with Rick Kent and Matthew Holliman, the last of nine days we spent climbing the Oregon volcanoes. Trip Report
Posted Sep 20, 2006 9:58 pm

eric9262First timer
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2005


My first foray into climbing was a very good experience. Just a few hundred feet below chicken point my awesome little sister said I'm ready to go down. It seemed like a great idea to me since we needed a break and the wind was howling and cold. I'd like to try again but the logistics of getting there from Georgia are not simple. I'm hooked on climbing now-thanks Oregon.
Posted Sep 10, 2006 3:48 am

physicsRoute Climbed: West Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2006


went up this with my little sister's ex-boyfriend. great day with nice views from up top. climbed the summit mass from the notch north of the summit - this is class 4/5 but solid rock.
Posted Aug 25, 2006 3:14 am

SawtoothSeanNice Finish  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2006


On a visit to Crater Lake I stopped and trail ran the approach and scrambled the summit. The crumbly approach was pretty bad, but best if you stay on the ridge. For the summit I choose a solid Class 4 section to go up and down climb (no rope). Class 3+ could probably be accomplished, but I preferred the most solid looking rock, even though it was slightly more exposed. The Summit views are great and the look down the north side is breathtaking. All in all I was able to get up and back to the car in 2.5 hours.
Posted Aug 8, 2006 3:13 am

2skinnersRe: Nice Finish
Congrats Sean!!
2.5 hours. Boy we really would have slowed you down. Either that or you would have summited 3 times before we were done. Glad you enjoyed it.
Posted Aug 9, 2006 1:00 am

LeviWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006


We camped at Diamond Lake on the 13th. Next day we started the hike at 6am. We couldn't stop the first 4 miles because of mosquitoes and we forgot the repellent. It was windy going up the ridge, but luckily not to bad at the summit. Then we summitted at 11am. We had rope but we did not use it. Back to the car at 3pm. Great hike, Perfect weather and everything was goood except those mosquitoes.
Posted Jul 16, 2006 2:18 am

grandwazooWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006


Flew into Medford around 10:00 pm Saturday night for work the following week, but as always I had to mix a short hike into the work schedule.
Hit the trail at 8:30 am and followed the trail until the snow took over. Followed tracks that eventually lead me to a large group, continued on to the ridge and finally sight of the peak, (mosquitos were a real bitch). Followed the west ridge, can’t miss the well beaten path, to the saddle below the summit block. Left my pack and scrambled to the summit, I would recommend bringing a 60 meter rope and rap off the summit. Quickly grabbed a few photos and made my way back down. Made the trail head by 12:30pm and then had a joyous ride to Coos Bay.
Posted Jun 22, 2006 12:45 pm

millsb40Great Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2006


We lucked out and had great weather. This would make for an easy 1 day hike, but coupled with the long drive from the Portland area, we decided to camp (7200'). Lost the trail because of snow somewhere around 6500' and headed cross country for the West / Northwest ridge. Because of the route we took, an ice ax was essential and crampons advised, it had froze and the snow was really hard and icy, with another route some of this could have been avoided. The top is pretty easy with only 1 or 2 spots that really have any difficulty, however a mistake there could be costly.
Posted Jun 19, 2006 5:36 pm

Karl HelserGreat climb...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006

Karl Helser

Climbed this one as part of a twelve-person Mazama climb. Only saw three other people all day. Mostly sunny by the time we got out of the trees. Thunder & lightning over Crater Lake by the time we were descending the summit block (time to get off this rod!). Great day...
Posted Jun 14, 2006 12:25 pm

cascadetravelerSharin the summit with towns folk.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2003


A beautiful august morning dawned upon us as we awoke at the Mt thielson trailhead. Seven of us headed up the climbers trail with ropes and a pro rack. We stopped awhile at the p.c.t junction to enjoy a west face view of our objective. As we hiked above treeline the trail became a faint boot track with steep switch backs. we climbed out and above Thielsons hand and onto the dinnerplate scree. The slab scree is probably the most dangerous part of this climb. Awhile later after a tedious scramble we arrive at chicken point. The point bieng the staging area for the summit pinnacle. There was a group of Mazamas already present setting up a fixed line. As we waited we became aquainted with The mazamas. Mean while other climbers arrived and many were choosing to summit solo (certainly faster). Oddly enough but not completly hard to believe,a group shows up looking like they were ready for a trip to the movie theater not a mountain climb. I do believe there downclimb provided the dose of reality of what they got themselves into. We get are turn and swiftly set up the fixed line and start going up one at a time. The view is outstanding,the sheer drops on three sides of the pinnacle are just radical. The fulgarite crystals were all over the summit reminding us of just how dangerous this summit is in an electrical storm. A rappel is set up and we all make are way down from the pinnacle. We down climb the saddle and scree ski down to the P.c.t a great day on a fun mountain.
Posted May 20, 2006 8:57 pm

uap304Thunderous Thielsen


A weekend to remember. One of the last trips before heading off to college. Took off for a weekend at Diamond Lake with a side-trip summit of Thielsen in the works. Not long after we made it past the tree line, ominous clouds gathered and let loose with the loudest, closest cloudburst I've ever witnessed. NOT a good time to be on the "lightning rod of the Cascades..." We sprint/screed down for cover in the trees until the hail passed. Upon returning to camp we found a small creek running through our site and mounds of hail piled up against our tent. You may have won this round, Thielsen, but I will be back to claim you some day.
Posted Apr 4, 2006 6:40 pm

cdogwinter ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2005


great winter route, can be easily done in a day by competent group:

trip report

Posted Feb 25, 2006 2:27 am

Aaron SmithRoute Climbed: southern Date Climbed: September 17, 2005  Sucess!
My first.
Posted Jan 23, 2006 2:52 pm

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