Mount Thomson Climber's Log

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skook

skook - Aug 31, 2023 10:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2023

Thomson East Ridge  Sucess!

A lot more elevation gain than expected. Wish I would have done this one when I was younger. One long day, but a great summit to be on with a clear view.

climberj510

climberj510 - Oct 16, 2022 8:41 am Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2022

West Ridge  Sucess!

West Ridge was not as expected from Route Descriptions. I read it was 5th class at hardest point so I left the climbing shoes at home and decided my Lone Peak 6's would do the job. To my surprise there were several moves escpecially on the first and second pitch that were probably 5.7
The climb from Basin to Basin including the descent on the East Ridge was 6 hours.
The starting point of the climb was easy to find, scamble up and over the 2 little spires that are between the first notch and the west ridge. The first move on pitch 1 is a big step left onto the north face of the W ridge. The rock was solid and took gear really well. I did not place anything larger than 2 inches, cams from .5 to 2 and a rack of stoppers is all that is needed. Most pitches only took 3 - 4 placements so 6 alpine draws was plenty for us.

kronshage3

kronshage3 - Oct 19, 2018 8:03 pm Date Climbed: Oct 19, 2018

Via East Ridge  Sucess!

Absolutely fantastic weather! Temps in the 50s on the summit! No wind, lots of sun, no snow or ice. Utilized the first shortcut, it was in great shape. The second shortcut looks like a disaster waiting to happen. Trail from PCT to Bumble Bee Pass is pretty easy to spot. The class 4 section had some fun exposure. Free climbed it then rappelled down. Huge thanks to whoever placed the rappel rings. Also spotted a mountain goat just above the notch!

Jake Robinson

Jake Robinson - Sep 15, 2016 11:24 pm Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2016

East ridge scramble  Sucess!

Approached via the Commonwealth Basin trail shortcut, but even so it felt like it took a while to get out to this peak. It's a nice area though. There's not much scrambling to speak of on this route, mostly just hiking scree and dirt until the last 100 feet. From there it's some scrambling and a few slabby moves of class 4 (if you do your routefinding correctly!!) up to the awesome airy summit. The class 4 felt tame but I hauled my rope all the way up there, so I rappelled it. A 30m is plenty, but if you're at all confident on rock downclimbing wouldn't be an issue.

Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Sep 17, 2013 5:00 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2013

West Ridge...  Sucess!

Got It...!

awilsondc

awilsondc - Oct 7, 2012 2:38 pm Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2012

Route Climbed: East Ridge Solo  Sucess!

One of my favorite summits of 2012. I love Mount Thomson. I found Josh's lost water bottle at the base of the south face cliffs. Trip report here.

Josh Lewis

Josh Lewis - Sep 5, 2012 1:53 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2012

Fun Scramble  Sucess!

Did this one with Gimpilator. Sad to say I lost one of my water bottles on this one. This is certainly one of the better I-90 peaks.

gimpilator

gimpilator - Aug 15, 2012 12:52 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2012

East Ridge  Sucess!

I've wanted to try this peak for a long time. We went to the summit of Kendal Peak to have a look at Thomson on the way. Josh and I scrambled the east ridge to the summit and then we did a rappel past the short Class 4 spot.

RangerMark

RangerMark - Aug 12, 2011 9:43 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2009

Fun climb!  Sucess!

Great climb after camping at Ridge Lake, nice to bag a summit without having to break out the climbing gear.

ExcitableBoy

ExcitableBoy - Dec 28, 2010 9:32 am

West Ridge  Sucess!

Long hike to climb a dirty version of The Tooth.

joepa

joepa - Aug 22, 2008 10:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2005

West Ridge  Sucess!

Fun climb. Never even broke out the rope.

agreenstreet

agreenstreet - Sep 13, 2007 4:02 am

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: 9-11-2007  Sucess!

with supermarmot, below. nice weather, fun climb. didn't make it to work that night; oops.

supermarmot

supermarmot - Sep 12, 2007 1:13 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2007

west ridge  Sucess!

awesome day for it! perfect weather and no crowds (had the mountain to ourselves.)

osatrik

osatrik - Sep 6, 2006 3:43 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 1998

OSAT 1998 - Scramble Route  Sucess!

We were able to find a couple nice tent spots in the basin east of the mountain. Climbed the talus and scramble route Sunday morning -- a couple of our summiters were glad we brought the short rope and one harness to rap the 20 feet of class 4 near the summit.

hkutuk

hkutuk - Jul 24, 2006 3:38 am Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

Thomson, W. Ridge  Sucess!

I had attempted to climb this peak last year but the weather never cleared and I turned back at Bumblebee Pass. Knowing the long approach, we were relying on finding the super secret shortcut but the forest road has been blocked and is no longer drivable. So we drove back to PCT but missed the exit and by the time we got to the trail head it was 9:30 and we knew we were in for a long day. Armed with the SP description of two shortcuts we started hiking. The first shortcut follows Commonwealth trail and is nice but the second one is a complete bushwhack and not recommended. This shortcut not only did not save any time it also wasted us. Pretty dissapointed with our progress we continued up to Bumblebee Pass. After a short lunch break at the pass we climbed the nasty scree to the notch and started the technical climbing at 2:30pm and summited at 4:45pm after 5 pitches. We spend hardly any time on the summit. In hopes of saving time we downclimbed the sometimes gravelly slabs and steep sections, more scree and loose rocks followed until we got into the basin and up the pass. We cruised down the PCT despite sore feet and made it back to the car at 9:30pm. We left Portland at 5am and were back at 2am next day, I call this "good use" of the day. Nice climb, great effort Jim.

ren

ren - Jan 12, 2006 8:55 am

Route Climbed: Scramble route Date Climbed: 8/21/04  Sucess!

The right gully was easy choss and scree leading to the east ridge. Great views at the top with my first peek at Iceburg Lake. Got off route on the way down and had a little trouble in the cliff bands.

Dan Winter

Dan Winter - Mar 18, 2005 3:26 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: 6/15/04-6/16/04  Sucess!

Fun climb.

scot'teryx

scot'teryx - Aug 26, 2003 2:01 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 12, 2003  Sucess!

One day ascent via secret approach, only 13 miles RT

Perfect weather and noone else encountered on route

Trip Report, Images, and a movie at : http://www.nwog.org/reports/071203thompson.htm



Fun route, much better alternative to Das Toof!

rpc

rpc - Aug 18, 2003 11:17 am

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 17, 2003  Sucess!

Fun route!

After being rained off on our NE Ridge of Triumph attempt on Saturday, Shirley and I decided to head south to Snoqualmie Pass to try Thomson (got rained out off of this one one month prior). Having done the hike in before, we thought that an early start was not needed. Well, we did not realize how popular this route gets - at least 3 or 4 parties jamming up the route when we got there. The climbing is easy - mostly low 5th with a few 5.6 moves (one somewhere on pitch two involves pulling over a bulge on moving handholds). After all was said and done, we summitted by 5:30pm and after some hairy downclimbs down the East Ridge we got back to the TH at 11:15pm. Not a fun drive back to Portland knowing that we have to get up for work at 7.

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