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TurboRoute Climbed: North Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2006


After summiting Three Fingered Jack the day before, our group reached the top of this beautiful mountain. My last peak climbed for the summer. A great climb and one of my favorite panoramic views of any of the Oregon Cascades.
Posted Aug 14, 2006 2:07 am

markmayNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2006


Real nice climb....still smoky from the Black Crater fire.
Posted Aug 7, 2006 12:06 am

PeterOrthNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006
Good stuff. Sketchy scramble to the notch. Took the 2nd ramp, then up to the first rap station. Not too bad from there. Bring a 60 meter rope for some cool raps on the way down. Forget downclimbing--that did not look like fun.
Posted Jul 24, 2006 4:09 pm

Bob BurdNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2006

Bob Burd

Tried three days earlier but turned back due to crappy weather. Second time was successful in gorgeous weather. Climbed with Matthew and Rick as part of a 9 day Cascade tour. Trip Report
Posted Jul 22, 2006 2:23 pm

olsennNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2006


route was essentially snow-free. Lots of mosquitos until the ridge.
Posted Jul 10, 2006 8:56 pm

splattskiN ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2002


I made it all the way to the top... you call this rock?
We were amazed by swarms of butterflies in another sunny day.
Posted Apr 13, 2006 6:30 pm

cascadetravelerRoute Climbed: north ridge Date Climbed: August 1st 2004.  Sucess!


It was the second mountain in as many days. Three fingered jack bieng the first. I would say we started out relunctantly bieng we were all pretty tired from the 13 hours on the trail the day before. We quickly broke into stride gathering yet more momentum for a long scree slog up the ridge to the mountain saddle. The mountain is awsome but very loose. Thje first pitch is quite exposed you can really feel your butt hangin in the wind. The summit erea is quite a bit larger than you might think when gazing up at it. The views are tremendous and the lightening storm was approaching time to bail.
Posted Jan 20, 2006 9:47 pm

mandrakeRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2003  Sucess!


Loose & crumbly. Three raps off the summit block back to the notch -- glad to not do any downclimbing!
Posted Oct 31, 2005 7:41 pm

jamminjmanRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: 7/24/05  Sucess!


Beautiful day, no clouds, wasn't too hot either. Too many ATVs at Big Lake though. From the notch there are 3 horns slung with rap rings to protect/rap the more difficult sections. Great climb with great views!
Posted Jul 28, 2005 7:10 pm

DagiTigRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July 19, 2003  Sucess!


This was my first technical climb and it was great! The weather was perfect, but I could have done without the swarms of flying ants at the summit. The repel was a little tricky due to some high winds, but overall it was a great trip!
Posted Jun 8, 2005 2:11 pm

Pawel KrolRoute Climbed: Lion's Head Date Climbed: 29 Dec 2004  Sucess!

Pawel Krol

Bad Weather, cold and total witheout
Posted Mar 3, 2005 12:47 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: October 2, 2004  Sucess!


Lots of waiting due to 15 people ahead of us on the route. We scrambled up to a big horn at the top of the second ramp this time and belayed a very short pitch. The crux comes right out of the belay and then unprotected third class leads to the top of "the nose". I just used one large hex and a long sling for pro. From there we scrambled up to the summit and back down to the rap station unroped. I recommend taking the second ramp over the first ramp because rope drag isn't as horrendous and the climbing is shorter on more "solid" rock.
Posted Oct 5, 2004 1:57 am

Gail JRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July 12, 1998  Sucess!

Gail J

A long but easy approach with a short 5.4 summit. A nice, moderate day.
Posted Aug 15, 2004 1:15 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: August 10, 2004  Sucess!


Climbed a looser variation on the first pitch and then some more solid variations on the second and third pitches. Flying ants were swarming at the summit this time.
Posted Aug 11, 2004 12:25 pm

e.acarRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 8,04  Sucess!
Climbed with Chemetakans in the leadership of Steve Dougherty. Beautiful day, clear skies.

Posted Aug 10, 2004 9:48 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July 27, 2004  Sucess!


See Cornvallis's entry below. There's definitely more than one way to climb "the nose" just above the notch. I'm not sure that a standard route exists. First ramp or second ramp? Just gives me a reason to try the second ramp sometime. I placed a new register book in the summit ammo can.
Posted Aug 2, 2004 10:59 pm

CornvallisRoute Climbed: North Ridge Variation Date Climbed: July 27, 2004  Sucess!


Another early start for dkantola and myself. Left Salem by 3:00 AM and were on the trail by 5:30. Took the first ramp. Wow, just a bit of exposure as you climb the first chimney and find yourself hanging over the east face. No worries, David led the route well and placed solid pro (as solid as you could on this heap). Would not recommend climbing this variation unroped! Free climbed the next two pitches to the summit. Flies were overwhelming on the true summit, but 50 ft. to the north they left you alone.....king of the hill eh? Rapped the first pitch back to the notch. Don't believe the hype about the great rock on Washington, are holds supposed to move?
Posted Aug 2, 2004 12:32 am

dkantolaRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July 24, 2004  Sucess!


I found the rock not to be as solid as advertised. Many flies swarming at the summit rocks. The summit register needs a new book.
Posted Jul 25, 2004 6:58 pm

PawkalaRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: Multiple  Sucess!


Have climbed it 3 times now. Was the first mountian I climbed....was in 2000. Scared me climbing the pinnicle the first time since it was just before sun set and the winds were high. Slept on top that trip. Second time set out to sleep on top again in early June 2002 but missed the trail up the North Ridge and ended up going up the NW Ridge and traversing to the saddle. We ran into high winds again and this time ran out of daylight. Had to bivouc down from the saddle and tie into the only tree we could find due to the steep slope. Hairy night sleep listening to the rock fall all night and not being able to see outside the clouds. Did not summit the next day due to time crunch. Thrid time summited no problem and back down in a day in late June of 2003. Glad to get to the trees by the time the lightning started. Awesome mountian. Love the adventure.
Posted Jul 1, 2004 11:47 pm

eckdoerryRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July, 1998  Sucess!


A fine summer climb --- but don't forget the DEET. We would have been dead of anemia had it not been for a friendly camper!

Washington is the best (only) volcano around that has climbable rock. Zoomed up the west ridge to a small saddle below the summit. There we broke out the rope and led about half a pitch --- that's all that was sketchy, with a nasty drop to the left. Purely positional belay since the pro was mostly weak. Nice summit --- until a storm came out of nowhere. We rapped the pinnacle, then plunge-stepped (ran?) down a NW snowface with lightning coming down all around. Exciting...
Posted Nov 28, 2003 1:12 pm

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