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millsb40North Ridge (Nightmare)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2010


I had read (almost) everything I could on Mt. Washington before my trip (except this page). The weather was nice, but clouds moved in as we hit the summit block (it was windy and cold when the clouds moved in). Anyway, I didn't read enough and poor visibility didn't help, but went the first (wrong) left leaning ramp. Don't take the ramp that takes off from just right of the saddle (unless you like poor protection and dangerous exposure). This leads to a bulge that you must go over with questionable protection. The first protection was a double sling clove hitched on a fairly decent horn. There was no other possible protection. Would have had to climb rotten stuff up and over with no more pro, or move left for a second, much more questionable horn, which I slung with a girth hitch. This sent you up a scree/rubble/rock shoot with 1500' exposure to the rappel rock. As mentioned below NOT recommended. Of course weather cleared on summit and it became pretty obvious we had taken the hard way. I would avoid this route like the plague.
Posted Jun 30, 2010 1:24 pm

kraymesNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2007


Solo up and rapped down. Good times.
Posted May 20, 2010 1:10 pm

SnowsloggerAnother good one  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 1992


Climbed this with Sally and a bunch of my original Oregon climbing buddies. Went up a second time a couple years later. A fun mtn.
Posted Dec 28, 2009 12:38 am

alpinedonNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2008


Finally getting around to entering all my old summits...did this one over a year ago, fun climb with my climbing partner Scott C. Very windy day, but overall lots of fun. Didn't use the rope, but would use a 1/2 rope for the rappel next time.
Posted Nov 21, 2009 7:35 pm

rmick25Great fun!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2009


What a beautiful day hike. Everything went perfect on way up. Nice and cool for Aug. Then on descent after rappelling main summit block my buddy peeled of a huge chunk of rock and took quite a spill. Fortunately he was wearing a helmet and the big chunks of rock missed him and he didn't tumble down the next cliff band. I then took a smaller spill and bashed myself up all over. Gotta love Cascade rock!
Posted Sep 4, 2009 4:12 pm

dirth"First" "Technical" Summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2009


I have done a good amount of semi technical climbing although mostly on snow, this was my first "technical" rock peak. Didn't turn out to be technical for me, free climbed the fifth class pitches and setup top-rope belays for the other person I was with who was less comfortable. Good experience, fun mountain.
Posted Aug 6, 2009 1:30 am

PallandoNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009


Got the flu saturday, but during the night I thought my fever broke. Woke at 5:00 at Big Lake feeling much better.
Large group, but after going around the wrong trail near some lakes (Hutch's?) lost an hour and a half with no distance gained. Most of the party bailed and went back to camp for some sailing, a friend and my dad bushwacked to the PCT.
Due to illness, very slow going on the climber's trail. Summited at 11:25 from the chimney a little to the west. Roped up for a pitch after the chimney this time, and rapped down the same part. Saw Moni and Fred in the log book, and someone with my dad's name (Jim Prichard, anyone?).
Exhausted as we got sight of Big Lake at 2:45. Flagged down our friends and sailed back to camp.
Posted Jul 26, 2009 11:14 pm

JGHarrisonNightmare variation of the North Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2009


Headed East around all the pillars on the North ridge to a horribly sketchy loose gully that comes up facing southwest into the main North face...dislodged a giant rock that cut my rope almost in half, and just missed my partner. Do Not recommend this route, definitely stay west of the pillars...good adventure though, but damn...close one.
Posted Jul 12, 2009 12:58 pm

Bob BoltonNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2008

Bob Bolton

Finally climbed this one after all these years, with Moni and Fred Spicker.
Posted Mar 26, 2009 12:36 am

oregonmtnmanNorth Ridge Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2004


Made summit with Chemeketans out of Salem, Oregon. Great climb. This mountain is so beautiful. Great views.
Posted Dec 11, 2008 12:23 am

PallandoQuick Day Trip from Sisters  Sucess!


I'd been up to the summit block when I was much younger – and no further.
So when my friends said they wanted to climb Washington that day (from Sisters, it's a quick trip) I was a little skeptical.
We made it to the block late (4:30) and were advised to not go further, since roping up makes the trip much longer. We heeded the advice, but decided to do a little free climbing anyway. Much to our surprise, we got quite far up the gulley with no real need for roping up, so we set a 30 minute ultimatum and decided to go as far as we could manage. I stayed behind with the dog (I would not have brought a dog, and definitely not this far) while my friends summited in 8 minutes. We had time for me and a friend to go up and we all made it down before our 30 minute restriction.

Surprised, but next time I'll bring rope.
Posted Sep 18, 2008 1:22 am

Fred SpickerNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2008

Fred Spicker

Climbed with Moni and Bob Bolton. Great weather - great day out.
Posted Sep 15, 2008 8:07 am

MoniVery fun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2008


With Bob Bolton and Fred. Fine views and fun climb.
Posted Sep 11, 2008 7:21 pm

bc44caesarNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2008


Did the North Ridge solo. Cold, cloudy, windy day. Lots of loose rock on this peak, but not too hard to find "solid" stuff. No rope, so had to downclimb, but it wasn't any harder than going up. NOT a great climb by any standard, unless you like crumbling choss piles. 2.5 hrs to the summit.
Posted Aug 20, 2008 12:19 am

Scott DusekNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2008

Scott Dusek

Nice little climb with fun finish. Went cross-country much of the time, thank god for GPS.

Posted Jul 13, 2008 9:21 pm

Steve RydinNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2003

Steve Rydin

This was a great climb with a little element of technical thrown in. The weather was perfect, but I could have done without the swarms of flying ants at the summit. The repel was a little tricky due to some high winds, but overall it was a great trip!
Posted Jul 8, 2008 12:06 pm

KMMLost cell phone on N. Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 3, 2007


If anyone finds a back and silver Motorola cell on the N.Ridge route please contact me. Most likely it is above the first pitch on the easier scrambling sections. If found you can leave a voice mail at 503-560-2749. I'll pay for shipping and handling plus a 20$ reward. Thanks. Great climb!
Posted Nov 4, 2007 11:44 am

KMMWest Ridge Post 936!  Sucess!


Did the west ridge. I think we did the first pitch that is "not recommended" lots of lose vertical stacked stuff. Tim the man didn't place a single piece on the upper half.
Posted Oct 7, 2007 1:51 am

YEMNorth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2006


Mazama climb. After 3FJ the day before, this mountain was a welcome relief. The rock was much more reliable and the Sisters were a lot closer.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 6:11 pm

Karl HelserPucker up!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2007

Karl Helser

Fun climb. Looks like there could be several routes at the summit block. Long day (large group). Climbed with a fixed line and a prusik, Down climbed with a prusik half way then rappeled the rest of the way.
Posted Jul 26, 2007 9:00 am

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