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edog2005Route Climbed: Main Route Date Climbed: 23 Jun 2005

edog2005

Made it up to about 13,000ft on the snow chute before turning back. Had ice axe and instep crampons and felt fit and acclimatised but the snow and ice conditions were too challenging for me. The switchbacks were still blocked at the cable section. I have a photo report at:

http://www.edwardboyle.com/photos41.html
Posted Jun 30, 2005 5:30 am

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: Niorth Face Date Climbed: May 29, 2005  Sucess!
Went up the North slope with Pavel and Roman after decending Mt. Russell. I found this route quite easy with the snow cover, less steep than the last section of Mountaineer's Route. I estimate it to be comparable in steepness to Avalanche Gulch on Shasta in the steepest sections. Our 2nd summit that day.
Posted Jun 25, 2005 10:30 pm

MariePRoute Climbed: Mountaineer's Route Date Climbed: March 2005  Sucess!

MarieP

It was a great climb, but it was saddened by the fatal incident of a solo climber on our summit day. Please take great care on the last 300 yards to the summit!
Posted Jun 17, 2005 1:41 am

ksolemRoute Climbed: Various Date Climbed: 1984-2005  Sucess!

ksolem

Did the East Face in '85 with Julie Lazar. Soloed the East Butt three times since then. The descent to the Mountaineers route gulley is always thought provoking.
Posted Jun 16, 2005 5:19 pm

Johnhl94563Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: June 11th, 2005  Sucess!

Johnhl94563

What Rob said :-)



Actually a great climb. Planned on going for the East Face but the Washboard and right below the alcove still had snow on it. And early start is definately a must on this climb during this time of the year. Very soft snow.
Posted Jun 13, 2005 11:59 am

rhyangRoute Climbed: Mountaineer's Date Climbed: 11-June-2005  Sucess!

rhyang

Started from Upper Boy Scout Lake around 6:30 with group organized by Johnhl94563, temps were around freezing; great snow for cramponing up to Iceberg Lake. By the time we entered the main gully around 9ish, things got softer, but firmed up as we ascended. The last 100-200' of the gully was melted out and very loose - use caution to avoid pelting rocks on parties climbing below.



At the notch, we had a choice of going up the first steep chute, or a gentler but long and somewhat exposed traverse on the north face to the west slope. Three of the group ascended the traverse. I climbed the chute, which had a class 3 rock scramble near the bottom, and maybe 45-50 degree hard snow up to the summit plateau. An enjoyable fix for this ice junkie.



The day was a bit windy and cool, good for keeping the snow firm above 14000'. We had excellent views, and a marmot & various birds thronged for snack handouts (don't leave packs unattended on the summit).



We descended via the traverse back to the notch, downclimbed the main gully about 2/3 of the way, glissaded back to Iceberg Lake in soft conditions, then plunge-stepped back to UBSL.

Posted Jun 13, 2005 2:18 am

Tom WaggonerRoute Climbed: Main Trail Date Climbed: June 6th, 2003  Sucess!

Tom Waggoner

I will never forget standing on top of the Continential United States.
Posted Jun 7, 2005 3:59 pm

stevewarmerdamRoute Climbed: Main Trail Date Climbed: June 4, 2005  Sucess!
Camped at Trail Camp, summited second day. Snow and altitude made this a hard, hard climb for newcomers like me. First 14k peak!
Posted Jun 6, 2005 3:23 pm

kovarpaRoute Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: May 29, 2005  Sucess!

kovarpa

Enjoyable snow climb from Whitney-Russell col after descending from Russell. Second of the three 14ers that day.
Posted Jun 1, 2005 2:13 am

Brian KaletRoute Climbed: Whitney Trail Date Climbed: May 28, 2005  Sucess!

Brian Kalet

Summited Muir and skied from North Crest. Trip Report
Posted May 31, 2005 8:40 pm

mjtimberRoute Climbed: "Whitney Trail" Date Climbed: May 22, 2005  Sucess!
Climbed Whitney with a failed attempt on Mount Muir due to a lack of desire for actual climbing (or perhaps taking the wrong route), only used the actual trail for the first 2 miles, with snow the rest of the way. Some exposure near Mount Muir and fairly steep snow instead of the 99 switchbacks. Much more of an adventure than the summer!
Posted May 24, 2005 6:13 pm

wingedfeetRoute Climbed: Withney Trail Date Climbed: 1997  Sucess!

wingedfeet

Whitney Trail Round Trip in 1 day. Very nice.
Posted May 20, 2005 1:09 pm

Mike NRoute Climbed: MR Date Climbed: May 1, 2005  Sucess!

Mike N

Camp at UBSL. Go when there is snow in the upper chute above the notch. Careful on the descent. Traverse looks sketchy, depending on snow.
Posted May 13, 2005 7:21 pm

mountaingazelleRoute Climbed: Whitney Trail Date Climbed: July 17, 1998  Sucess!

mountaingazelle

We hiked it in a day. We started in the dark and made it to trail camp in the morning. It had been a snowy year and the 99 switchbacks were covered in snow. We cramponed up the long couloir all the way to trail crest. Hiking along the ridge was slow going as the altitude really got to us. I got to the summit and fell asleep. The view was great. We glissaded all the way down to trail camp and hiked out.
Posted May 1, 2005 10:08 pm

Nyle WaltonRe: Route Climbed: Whitney Trail Date Climbed: July 17, 1998

Nyle Walton

I followed this very same route in September, 1965, while driving from Salt Lake City to Berkeley, California, where I started graduate school in geography. The trail to the top was crowded with hikers and I felt no exclusiveness from reaching the slatey summit except to realize that I had reached to highest point in the lower forty-eight.
Posted Jan 30, 2008 10:46 am

marmotingRoute Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: March 2005  Sucess!
Dayhiked on snowshoes from road closure. Very good snow conditions on upper mountain. Up first chute from notch, traversed north face on way down. North Fork easy snow hike with 0 brush. Easier to climb this time of year than summer.
Posted Apr 28, 2005 11:08 pm

LangenbacherRoute Climbed: from portal, from Arc Pass, from Whitney Russel Pass-North Slope Date Climbed: 1968, 1970, 1979, 1980  Sucess!

Langenbacher

'68 with Mark, from portal

'70 with Fritz (spent the night on top) from portal

1979 with Paul via Arc pass from Langley

1980 solo after losing Fritz and Markle while bushwacking at night, via North Fork Lone Pine Creek, Whitney-Russel pass and north slope (spent the night on top).
Posted Apr 19, 2005 6:34 pm

brusyRoute Climbed: Mountaineer's Route Date Climbed: December 1

brusy

Due to the snow conditions we only reached the Lower Boy Scout camp the first day and in very deep powder snowshoed to Upper Boyscout the next, knowing we wont make the summit. When the storm rolled in the 2nd nite, we surrendered and head back. Nice trip though!!
Posted Apr 18, 2005 7:38 pm

mattashmanRoute Climbed: Mountaineer's Route Date Climbed: 16 April 2005  Sucess!

mattashman

A lovely climb in a party of 3. The final chute was in good condition, although the runout and party above kicking down ice blocks made it the scariest part of the route. The main couloir was super icy so the way down was a grinding exercise in steep crampon descent.
Posted Apr 18, 2005 3:23 pm

soslawRoute Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: November 5, 2000  Sucess!

soslaw

Climbed with Andre. An epic. Late October storm dumped a couple of feet of unconsolidated snow. Left LBSL at 7 a.m and reached base of Mountaineer's rte at 5 p.m. as sun was going down. Slog up a knee deep sugar snow filled coulior with strong gusting winds and spindrift made for a numbing climb to the notch where a mini epic was in the making as Andre had lost one of his crampons in the couloir. The climb up the first chute to the right of the notch over snow covered rock and now howling winds over an unknown rte added a little spice. Reached the summit at 2 a.m. in a raging wind. Made it to the hut to find 2 other climbers who had come up the Portal rte. Larry Amkraut was a life saver as he prepared food and water for us. Descended the portal as with only one crampon a descent of the Mountaineers rte was too sketchy for Andre and probably not recommended in any case. Had to hike back to LBSL to retrieve tent and gear.
Posted Apr 18, 2005 2:05 pm

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