Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: June 26, 2005
For me it was a great achievement to be once again [after 16 years, this time with my son] at the top of this awesome mountain ! Our guide from Sierra Mountaineering, Inc made all the difference for us. First, Neil found a very nice camping spot by Thor Lake, sheltered from the elements and without any snow on the ground. It was located a few hundred feet lower than Iceberg Lake which was still frozen and its usual camp sites all snow covered.
At daybreak we continued on our trek thru fields of snow cups and neve and did not encounter a single mountaineer the entire day. We began the rock climb below the Tower Traverse at about 7.30AM. It took us about 7.5 hours to reach the summit. It was Neil's expert guidance that facilitated our success at the usual critical technical spots [my crux of the climb was the dihedral at the top of the Grand Staircase]. The exposure and views during the climb were awesome and the technical aspects were definitely harder than anything I had encountered at the Hornli Ridge of the Matterhorn.Our descent via the Mountaineers Route was greatly facilitated by glissading in the snow-covered chutes.
I highly recommend the latter part of June as a great time to climb this spectacular route in total solitude and opting to camp lower to avoid snow and cold nights!
Route Climbed: Mt. Whitney Trail Date Climbed: June 26th, 2005
My first time up a fourteener! It was probably the hardest thing I have done in my life, but extremely rewarding. The climb from trail camp to trail crest was made much easier by the switchbacks being about 80% clear. Cables still under snow but passable. Crampons and ice axe very handy and probably necesary. Steep snow crossing at the top for about 150 feet to the Crest made me uneasy but very doable. One of the most beautiful places I have hiked in the world. Excellent trip!
Route Climbed: Main Route Date Climbed: 23 Jun 2005
Made it up to about 13,000ft on the snow chute before turning back. Had ice axe and instep crampons and felt fit and acclimatised but the snow and ice conditions were too challenging for me. The switchbacks were still blocked at the cable section. I have a photo report at:
Route Climbed: Niorth Face Date Climbed: May 29, 2005
Went up the North slope with Pavel and Roman after decending Mt. Russell. I found this route quite easy with the snow cover, less steep than the last section of Mountaineer's Route. I estimate it to be comparable in steepness to Avalanche Gulch on Shasta in the steepest sections. Our 2nd summit that day.
Route Climbed: Mountaineer's Route Date Climbed: March 2005
It was a great climb, but it was saddened by the fatal incident of a solo climber on our summit day. Please take great care on the last 300 yards to the summit!
Did the East Face in '85 with Julie Lazar. Soloed the East Butt three times since then. The descent to the Mountaineers route gulley is always thought provoking.
Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: June 11th, 2005
What Rob said :-)
Actually a great climb. Planned on going for the East Face but the Washboard and right below the alcove still had snow on it. And early start is definately a must on this climb during this time of the year. Very soft snow.
Route Climbed: Mountaineer's Date Climbed: 11-June-2005
Started from Upper Boy Scout Lake around 6:30 with group organized by Johnhl94563, temps were around freezing; great snow for cramponing up to Iceberg Lake. By the time we entered the main gully around 9ish, things got softer, but firmed up as we ascended. The last 100-200' of the gully was melted out and very loose - use caution to avoid pelting rocks on parties climbing below.
At the notch, we had a choice of going up the first steep chute, or a gentler but long and somewhat exposed traverse on the north face to the west slope. Three of the group ascended the traverse. I climbed the chute, which had a class 3 rock scramble near the bottom, and maybe 45-50 degree hard snow up to the summit plateau. An enjoyable fix for this ice junkie.
The day was a bit windy and cool, good for keeping the snow firm above 14000'. We had excellent views, and a marmot & various birds thronged for snack handouts (don't leave packs unattended on the summit).
We descended via the traverse back to the notch, downclimbed the main gully about 2/3 of the way, glissaded back to Iceberg Lake in soft conditions, then plunge-stepped back to UBSL.
Route Climbed: "Whitney Trail" Date Climbed: May 22, 2005
Climbed Whitney with a failed attempt on Mount Muir due to a lack of desire for actual climbing (or perhaps taking the wrong route), only used the actual trail for the first 2 miles, with snow the rest of the way. Some exposure near Mount Muir and fairly steep snow instead of the 99 switchbacks. Much more of an adventure than the summer!
Route Climbed: Whitney Trail Date Climbed: July 17, 1998
We hiked it in a day. We started in the dark and made it to trail camp in the morning. It had been a snowy year and the 99 switchbacks were covered in snow. We cramponed up the long couloir all the way to trail crest. Hiking along the ridge was slow going as the altitude really got to us. I got to the summit and fell asleep. The view was great. We glissaded all the way down to trail camp and hiked out.
Re: Route Climbed: Whitney Trail Date Climbed: July 17, 1998
I followed this very same route in September, 1965, while driving from Salt Lake City to Berkeley, California, where I started graduate school in geography. The trail to the top was crowded with hikers and I felt no exclusiveness from reaching the slatey summit except to realize that I had reached to highest point in the lower forty-eight.
Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: March 2005
Dayhiked on snowshoes from road closure. Very good snow conditions on upper mountain. Up first chute from notch, traversed north face on way down. North Fork easy snow hike with 0 brush. Easier to climb this time of year than summer.
JanG - Jul 4, 2005 3:06 pm
Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: June 26, 2005For me it was a great achievement to be once again [after 16 years, this time with my son] at the top of this awesome mountain ! Our guide from Sierra Mountaineering, Inc made all the difference for us. First, Neil found a very nice camping spot by Thor Lake, sheltered from the elements and without any snow on the ground. It was located a few hundred feet lower than Iceberg Lake which was still frozen and its usual camp sites all snow covered.
At daybreak we continued on our trek thru fields of snow cups and neve and did not encounter a single mountaineer the entire day. We began the rock climb below the Tower Traverse at about 7.30AM. It took us about 7.5 hours to reach the summit. It was Neil's expert guidance that facilitated our success at the usual critical technical spots [my crux of the climb was the dihedral at the top of the Grand Staircase]. The exposure and views during the climb were awesome and the technical aspects were definitely harder than anything I had encountered at the Hornli Ridge of the Matterhorn.Our descent via the Mountaineers Route was greatly facilitated by glissading in the snow-covered chutes.
I highly recommend the latter part of June as a great time to climb this spectacular route in total solitude and opting to camp lower to avoid snow and cold nights!
SkydiveKen - Jul 4, 2005 1:41 am
Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: August 20 2004Perfect weather perfect climb great fun.
SkydiveKen - Jul 4, 2005 1:36 am
Route Climbed: Main trail Date Climbed: October 22/23 2004Easy going very little snow from trail crest.
jwhitaker - Jul 1, 2005 5:45 pm
Route Climbed: Mt. Whitney Trail Date Climbed: June 26th, 2005My first time up a fourteener! It was probably the hardest thing I have done in my life, but extremely rewarding. The climb from trail camp to trail crest was made much easier by the switchbacks being about 80% clear. Cables still under snow but passable. Crampons and ice axe very handy and probably necesary. Steep snow crossing at the top for about 150 feet to the Crest made me uneasy but very doable. One of the most beautiful places I have hiked in the world. Excellent trip!
edog2005 - Jun 30, 2005 5:30 am
Route Climbed: Main Route Date Climbed: 23 Jun 2005Made it up to about 13,000ft on the snow chute before turning back. Had ice axe and instep crampons and felt fit and acclimatised but the snow and ice conditions were too challenging for me. The switchbacks were still blocked at the cable section. I have a photo report at:
http://www.edwardboyle.com/photos41.html
Zzyzx - Jun 25, 2005 10:30 pm
Route Climbed: Niorth Face Date Climbed: May 29, 2005Went up the North slope with Pavel and Roman after decending Mt. Russell. I found this route quite easy with the snow cover, less steep than the last section of Mountaineer's Route. I estimate it to be comparable in steepness to Avalanche Gulch on Shasta in the steepest sections. Our 2nd summit that day.
MarieP - Jun 17, 2005 1:41 am
Route Climbed: Mountaineer's Route Date Climbed: March 2005It was a great climb, but it was saddened by the fatal incident of a solo climber on our summit day. Please take great care on the last 300 yards to the summit!
ksolem - Jun 16, 2005 5:19 pm
Route Climbed: Various Date Climbed: 1984-2005Did the East Face in '85 with Julie Lazar. Soloed the East Butt three times since then. The descent to the Mountaineers route gulley is always thought provoking.
Johnhl94563 - Jun 13, 2005 11:59 am
Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: June 11th, 2005What Rob said :-)
Actually a great climb. Planned on going for the East Face but the Washboard and right below the alcove still had snow on it. And early start is definately a must on this climb during this time of the year. Very soft snow.
rhyang - Jun 13, 2005 2:18 am
Route Climbed: Mountaineer's Date Climbed: 11-June-2005Started from Upper Boy Scout Lake around 6:30 with group organized by Johnhl94563, temps were around freezing; great snow for cramponing up to Iceberg Lake. By the time we entered the main gully around 9ish, things got softer, but firmed up as we ascended. The last 100-200' of the gully was melted out and very loose - use caution to avoid pelting rocks on parties climbing below.
At the notch, we had a choice of going up the first steep chute, or a gentler but long and somewhat exposed traverse on the north face to the west slope. Three of the group ascended the traverse. I climbed the chute, which had a class 3 rock scramble near the bottom, and maybe 45-50 degree hard snow up to the summit plateau. An enjoyable fix for this ice junkie.
The day was a bit windy and cool, good for keeping the snow firm above 14000'. We had excellent views, and a marmot & various birds thronged for snack handouts (don't leave packs unattended on the summit).
We descended via the traverse back to the notch, downclimbed the main gully about 2/3 of the way, glissaded back to Iceberg Lake in soft conditions, then plunge-stepped back to UBSL.
Tom Waggoner - Jun 7, 2005 3:59 pm
Route Climbed: Main Trail Date Climbed: June 6th, 2003I will never forget standing on top of the Continential United States.
stevewarmerdam - Jun 6, 2005 3:23 pm
Route Climbed: Main Trail Date Climbed: June 4, 2005Camped at Trail Camp, summited second day. Snow and altitude made this a hard, hard climb for newcomers like me. First 14k peak!
kovarpa - Jun 1, 2005 2:13 am
Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: May 29, 2005Enjoyable snow climb from Whitney-Russell col after descending from Russell. Second of the three 14ers that day.
Brian Kalet - May 31, 2005 8:40 pm
Route Climbed: Whitney Trail Date Climbed: May 28, 2005Summited Muir and skied from North Crest. Trip Report
mjtimber - May 24, 2005 6:13 pm
Route Climbed: "Whitney Trail" Date Climbed: May 22, 2005Climbed Whitney with a failed attempt on Mount Muir due to a lack of desire for actual climbing (or perhaps taking the wrong route), only used the actual trail for the first 2 miles, with snow the rest of the way. Some exposure near Mount Muir and fairly steep snow instead of the 99 switchbacks. Much more of an adventure than the summer!
wingedfeet - May 20, 2005 1:09 pm
Route Climbed: Withney Trail Date Climbed: 1997Whitney Trail Round Trip in 1 day. Very nice.
Mike N - May 13, 2005 7:21 pm
Route Climbed: MR Date Climbed: May 1, 2005Camp at UBSL. Go when there is snow in the upper chute above the notch. Careful on the descent. Traverse looks sketchy, depending on snow.
mountaingazelle - May 1, 2005 10:08 pm
Route Climbed: Whitney Trail Date Climbed: July 17, 1998We hiked it in a day. We started in the dark and made it to trail camp in the morning. It had been a snowy year and the 99 switchbacks were covered in snow. We cramponed up the long couloir all the way to trail crest. Hiking along the ridge was slow going as the altitude really got to us. I got to the summit and fell asleep. The view was great. We glissaded all the way down to trail camp and hiked out.
Nyle Walton - Jan 30, 2008 10:46 am
Re: Route Climbed: Whitney Trail Date Climbed: July 17, 1998I followed this very same route in September, 1965, while driving from Salt Lake City to Berkeley, California, where I started graduate school in geography. The trail to the top was crowded with hikers and I felt no exclusiveness from reaching the slatey summit except to realize that I had reached to highest point in the lower forty-eight.
marmoting - Apr 28, 2005 11:08 pm
Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: March 2005Dayhiked on snowshoes from road closure. Very good snow conditions on upper mountain. Up first chute from notch, traversed north face on way down. North Fork easy snow hike with 0 brush. Easier to climb this time of year than summer.