Route Climbed: NE ridge Date Climbed: June 26, 2005
This route is for machines only. I am pretty good shape myself and got seriously owned. Climbed with poorboy44 - not only did he have bronchitis during our ascent (probably the first ascent of Williamson with bronchitis, even more amazing was it was the NE ridge noless) but I was trailing him the whole way. This route has many sections of class 4/5 with serious exposure. My highlight was climbing into a little "bind" which I could not back-climb out of. poorboy44 was 200 ft above me and not about to come down and help me out. I was above a snow chute by about 40 feet. I dropped my pack (which fell ~300 ft down the chute), down climbed 10-15 feet, and then took a leap of faith down into the snow chute. It was the most air I have ever gotten in my life. Anyway, climbed and signed the West horn and then the East horn before making the summit. Great climb and ready to go back to get Tyndall. hat's off to the two men who did this route as a day trip - true machines if I ever heard of any.
Route Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: June 26, 2005
Great long route! We brought a 7mm rap line but did not use it. Followed the SP description and found it to be excellent. Descended the West Face, still a lot of snow but we managed with tennis shoes and axes. Hats off to those who do this climb car-to-car in a day!
Route Climbed: West Face Route Date Climbed: June 25, 2005
Reached the summit of Mt. Williamson via the West Face Route at 11:00 AM from a camp at Shepherd's Pass. There is snow in the chute above the black stains to within 100' of the 3rd class chimney that leads to the summit plateau. Plan to use your ice axe & crampons. Several parties trying to summit from Anvil Camp were turned back - there is a lot of snow on the trail above Anvil and it is hard to find in the dark - advise a camp above Shepherd's Pass. Yes, it's a long, hard hike! Plan to leave the 6,200' trailhead EARLY to avoid heat and make the pass. Stream crossings are tricky, but doable.
Route Climbed: North Fork Bairs Creek Date Climbed: May, 2005
Incredible weather - warm all the way to the summit. Skied from the summit to snowline - around 8600' solo. First few thousand feet is tortuous, sandy especially carrying skis, but all of it above snowline is wonderful.
Route Climbed: George Creek Date Climbed: 14 May 05
Great climb -- perfect day. Friend opted not to go to the top but met Jeff from Long Beach (city next to mine) -- small world. George Creek is truly the classic bushwack -- had to be done once (although maybe next year to climb Barnard). Didn't see soslaw (below) & Jim at the top but saw them crossing Williamson basin on the way back to Shepherd
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: May 14, 2005
Climbed with Jim under the finest Sierra blue bird skies. Snow in the Williamson bowl and the west face coulior made for ideal conditions. Literally a snow ramp to the base of the chimney. A lttle over 3 hours round trip from the bowl. Summit register buried in snow. Spent an half hour on the summit enjoying a 100 mile panarama of snow laden peaks, valleys and bowls.
Route Climbed: George Creek and Bairs Creek Date Climbed: April 2005
It's such a heavy snow year, had to climb both brush-heavy routes while snow smashed down my nemesis. Heavy snow made it possible to dayhike each of the routes using only daylight hours. I love snow!
Route Climbed: West face Date Climbed: July 4, 1982
With my brother , Fritz, via Shepherd Pass, and base camp between Williamson and Tyndall. Met some guys on the peak we had met on Mt. Langley previous labor day. Unfortunately, they knocked down a rock that went zooming down the middle of the chute while we were descending. They yelled and I got out of the way just in time to see it zipping by, then I had to yell down at my brother 3-4 times before he heard me, since he was so far ahead of me. Whew! This was a really memorable mountain.
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 15, 2004
Arnie Coleman and I summited on July 15th via the usual slog across Williamson Bowl from the upper lake above Shepherd Pass, our friend Chip made it up to the chimney at the top of the chute. The chute was much more unstable than expected, and we mostly stuck to climbing on the better rock on the right side of the chute. The chimney, while posing no real problems, got the heart racing at 14,000 ft (are you guys sure that's not Class 4, one slip and you're . . . ). Both Arnie and I squeezed under the chockstone with day-packs on.
We looked for the summit register, even though it had been previously noted that it was missing. It appears that people have been taking out their frustration on the USGS Summit Marker, because the thing is really beat up. The climb down was uneventful, but makes your quads scream the next morning.
We tried Mt. Tyndall the next day, but only got half way up due to apathy and closing weather. We're going to have to go back up Shepherd Pass, damn. Also, how anyone could camp at Anvil Camp with all those mosquitos is beyond me (we camped above the Pothole . . . nice).
We hiked out on Saturday, July 17th, just ahead of a huge super-cell thunder storm that enveloped the eastern sierra from Cottonwood Lakes to the Palisades and knocked the power out in Lone Pine.
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 4, 2004
Very LONG approach! Was a tough one for me. Got sick due to altitude, but somehow suffered through the headache. Chimney near top was the most fun part. Very little snow on the entire route. Mountaineer's route on Mt. Sill (did it last year) was more fun I thought - start at about 6000ft, 8 mile hike in to camp at 12K feet, then a class 3-4 route to the summit, some glissading on the way down.
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 14, 2004
Wow, what an epic workout. Today I climbed Mt. Williamson in a day trip. My GPS said that Shepherd Pass trail (from trailhead to entry to Sequoia National Park) is 10.29 miles.
Just below Shepherd Pass is some snow to cross in a steep shoot. There are foot steps dug in and I crossed without crampons or poles.
Nearer the summit, there is snow in a shoot about .2 below the class 3. Rocks on the right of the snow may be used to go around it. I imagine the snow is there year around.
Facing the class 3 "cliff", I took the steep class 3 "crack" on the left (without a rope, the way to the right seemed unsafe). I pulled up on rocks in the cracks and slipped under the rock near the top. Although it seemed pretty scary as I started, it turned out to be done in a few minutes with no fear. I also came down the same way and there was no problem-just one step at a time.. wedging with hands, arms, shoulders and hips and gripping and there were no problems.
See my very detailed Trip Report for this climb:
"West Face of Mt. Williamson in a day trip from Shepherd Pass Trailhead"
Route Climbed: West face Date Climbed: July 12, 2004
Got as far as the black water marks on the 11th before turning around with some very angry feet, just missing out on my Tyndall-Barnard-Trojan-Williamson in a day traverse from the pass. Came back the next morning and made the top in 2:50 from Shepherds pass. Still no register to be found.
Route Climbed: III 5.4 North Arete (Long Twisting Rib) Date Climbed: July 10, 2004
Climbed this route with Martin Rolph. Descended the West Face and back to our Bivy in Williamson Bowl in 12.5 hours. This route is rated 5.4, but as Martin stated below, mostly class 3/4 with a few Class 5 moves along the way.
I found the arete wanted to keep leading me to easier terrain on it's east side. However, I tried to stay true to the arete whenever possible for a more challenging climb.
When first arriving at the West Horn and looking at the descent, I had to overcome the urge to wet myself. But after a short down climb and one rapel, Martin and myself found that R. J. Secor's descent beta is very accurate and that the descent off the West Horn is relativly safe.
Route Climbed: North Arete (Long Twisting Rib) Date Climbed: July 10-11, 2004
Wow!! After choosing the start incorrectly and climbing / retreating a couple of pitches on the North face, Etsuko and I finally found the route and climbed it solo until we reached the notch between East and West Horns barely alive and completely exhausted. Fortunately we were able to find a small ledge on the North Arete, about 100' below the notch, where we spent the night. After a super cold night (our space blankets ripped and we did not have sleeping bags), we finished the route up West Horn and then traversed the NE ridge to the summit plateau. Summited at 2pm on Sunday and retreated via West Face back into Williamson Bowl. Packed out and went back to the trailhead the same day. Arrived to the parking lot at 1am completely wasted. What a climb!!
Route Climbed: Long Twisting Rib Date Climbed: July 10, 2004
Climbed the Long Twisting Rib on a 3 day trip with Sam Mills, Misha, & Etsuko. We hauled rock climbing gear all the way but never felt the need to pull it out of the pack. The climbing was mostly class 4 with maybe a few short 5.easy moves. Great trip!
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 4, 2004
Climbed the West Face route on the 4th of July. Weather was great. Route was tedious. The Williamson bowl didn't seem as bad as I expected (at least on the way in). The chimney turned out to be easier than I expected and was the funnest part of the climb. I kinda wish the chimney was longer because it only took about 10 minutes to climb. It's a bit of a surprise when you reach the top of the steep chimney and step out onto the huge plateau. About a dozen climbers were gathered at the summit. I believe everyone who attempted the climb made it. Oh, and there's still no summit register.
Scott Pierce - Jul 5, 2005 12:44 am
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: July 2-3, 2005With Kris and Pavel. Secor got this one right: "...one hell of a hard climb."
physics - Jun 27, 2005 6:14 pm
Route Climbed: NE ridge Date Climbed: June 26, 2005This route is for machines only. I am pretty good shape myself and got seriously owned. Climbed with poorboy44 - not only did he have bronchitis during our ascent (probably the first ascent of Williamson with bronchitis, even more amazing was it was the NE ridge noless) but I was trailing him the whole way. This route has many sections of class 4/5 with serious exposure. My highlight was climbing into a little "bind" which I could not back-climb out of. poorboy44 was 200 ft above me and not about to come down and help me out. I was above a snow chute by about 40 feet. I dropped my pack (which fell ~300 ft down the chute), down climbed 10-15 feet, and then took a leap of faith down into the snow chute. It was the most air I have ever gotten in my life. Anyway, climbed and signed the West horn and then the East horn before making the summit. Great climb and ready to go back to get Tyndall. hat's off to the two men who did this route as a day trip - true machines if I ever heard of any.
poorboy44 - Jun 27, 2005 1:45 pm
Route Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: June 26, 2005Great long route! We brought a 7mm rap line but did not use it. Followed the SP description and found it to be excellent. Descended the West Face, still a lot of snow but we managed with tennis shoes and axes. Hats off to those who do this climb car-to-car in a day!
ghoulwe2 - Jun 27, 2005 1:15 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Route Date Climbed: June 25, 2005Reached the summit of Mt. Williamson via the West Face Route at 11:00 AM from a camp at Shepherd's Pass. There is snow in the chute above the black stains to within 100' of the 3rd class chimney that leads to the summit plateau. Plan to use your ice axe & crampons. Several parties trying to summit from Anvil Camp were turned back - there is a lot of snow on the trail above Anvil and it is hard to find in the dark - advise a camp above Shepherd's Pass. Yes, it's a long, hard hike! Plan to leave the 6,200' trailhead EARLY to avoid heat and make the pass. Stream crossings are tricky, but doable.
rdesota - May 28, 2005 12:25 pm
Route Climbed: North Fork Bairs Creek Date Climbed: May, 2005Incredible weather - warm all the way to the summit. Skied from the summit to snowline - around 8600' solo. First few thousand feet is tortuous, sandy especially carrying skis, but all of it above snowline is wonderful.
bechtt - May 22, 2005 10:21 pm
Route Climbed: George Creek Date Climbed: 14 May 05Great climb -- perfect day. Friend opted not to go to the top but met Jeff from Long Beach (city next to mine) -- small world. George Creek is truly the classic bushwack -- had to be done once (although maybe next year to climb Barnard). Didn't see soslaw (below) & Jim at the top but saw them crossing Williamson basin on the way back to Shepherd
soslaw - May 17, 2005 4:30 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: May 14, 2005Climbed with Jim under the finest Sierra blue bird skies. Snow in the Williamson bowl and the west face coulior made for ideal conditions. Literally a snow ramp to the base of the chimney. A lttle over 3 hours round trip from the bowl. Summit register buried in snow. Spent an half hour on the summit enjoying a 100 mile panarama of snow laden peaks, valleys and bowls.
marmoting - Apr 28, 2005 11:28 pm
Route Climbed: George Creek and Bairs Creek Date Climbed: April 2005It's such a heavy snow year, had to climb both brush-heavy routes while snow smashed down my nemesis. Heavy snow made it possible to dayhike each of the routes using only daylight hours. I love snow!
mattashman - Mar 30, 2005 10:06 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: 4 July 2004Great route. Don't try to glissade the chute in late summer though folks!
RSN473 - Dec 22, 2004 11:10 am
Route Climbed: W Face Date Climbed: 5-27-01Climbed solo from Shepard's Pass - very good climb.
Langenbacher - Oct 18, 2004 7:56 pm
Route Climbed: West face Date Climbed: July 4, 1982With my brother , Fritz, via Shepherd Pass, and base camp between Williamson and Tyndall. Met some guys on the peak we had met on Mt. Langley previous labor day. Unfortunately, they knocked down a rock that went zooming down the middle of the chute while we were descending. They yelled and I got out of the way just in time to see it zipping by, then I had to yell down at my brother 3-4 times before he heard me, since he was so far ahead of me. Whew! This was a really memorable mountain.
sierramtngoat - Sep 1, 2004 4:14 am
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 4, 2004Fun chimney; we got an early start to avoid the unsettled weather; summitted with Balaji, Tom, Sundhi, and K-Balls.
Ed Dorsey - Jul 20, 2004 9:13 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 15, 2004Arnie Coleman and I summited on July 15th via the usual slog across Williamson Bowl from the upper lake above Shepherd Pass, our friend Chip made it up to the chimney at the top of the chute. The chute was much more unstable than expected, and we mostly stuck to climbing on the better rock on the right side of the chute. The chimney, while posing no real problems, got the heart racing at 14,000 ft (are you guys sure that's not Class 4, one slip and you're . . . ). Both Arnie and I squeezed under the chockstone with day-packs on.
We looked for the summit register, even though it had been previously noted that it was missing. It appears that people have been taking out their frustration on the USGS Summit Marker, because the thing is really beat up. The climb down was uneventful, but makes your quads scream the next morning.
We tried Mt. Tyndall the next day, but only got half way up due to apathy and closing weather. We're going to have to go back up Shepherd Pass, damn. Also, how anyone could camp at Anvil Camp with all those mosquitos is beyond me (we camped above the Pothole . . . nice).
We hiked out on Saturday, July 17th, just ahead of a huge super-cell thunder storm that enveloped the eastern sierra from Cottonwood Lakes to the Palisades and knocked the power out in Lone Pine.
I hope grandpa made it out OK.
mt_daydream - Jul 15, 2004 4:36 am
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 4, 2004Very LONG approach! Was a tough one for me. Got sick due to altitude, but somehow suffered through the headache. Chimney near top was the most fun part. Very little snow on the entire route. Mountaineer's route on Mt. Sill (did it last year) was more fun I thought - start at about 6000ft, 8 mile hike in to camp at 12K feet, then a class 3-4 route to the summit, some glissading on the way down.
RobertCharlesAltman - Jul 15, 2004 2:50 am
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 14, 2004Wow, what an epic workout. Today I climbed Mt. Williamson in a day trip. My GPS said that Shepherd Pass trail (from trailhead to entry to Sequoia National Park) is 10.29 miles.
Just below Shepherd Pass is some snow to cross in a steep shoot. There are foot steps dug in and I crossed without crampons or poles.
Nearer the summit, there is snow in a shoot about .2 below the class 3. Rocks on the right of the snow may be used to go around it. I imagine the snow is there year around.
Facing the class 3 "cliff", I took the steep class 3 "crack" on the left (without a rope, the way to the right seemed unsafe). I pulled up on rocks in the cracks and slipped under the rock near the top. Although it seemed pretty scary as I started, it turned out to be done in a few minutes with no fear. I also came down the same way and there was no problem-just one step at a time.. wedging with hands, arms, shoulders and hips and gripping and there were no problems.
See my very detailed Trip Report for this climb:
"West Face of Mt. Williamson in a day trip from Shepherd Pass Trailhead"
Completebum - Jul 14, 2004 1:14 pm
Route Climbed: West face Date Climbed: July 12, 2004Got as far as the black water marks on the 11th before turning around with some very angry feet, just missing out on my Tyndall-Barnard-Trojan-Williamson in a day traverse from the pass. Came back the next morning and made the top in 2:50 from Shepherds pass. Still no register to be found.
Sam Mills - Jul 13, 2004 2:59 pm
Route Climbed: III 5.4 North Arete (Long Twisting Rib) Date Climbed: July 10, 2004Climbed this route with Martin Rolph. Descended the West Face and back to our Bivy in Williamson Bowl in 12.5 hours. This route is rated 5.4, but as Martin stated below, mostly class 3/4 with a few Class 5 moves along the way.
I found the arete wanted to keep leading me to easier terrain on it's east side. However, I tried to stay true to the arete whenever possible for a more challenging climb.
When first arriving at the West Horn and looking at the descent, I had to overcome the urge to wet myself. But after a short down climb and one rapel, Martin and myself found that R. J. Secor's descent beta is very accurate and that the descent off the West Horn is relativly safe.
Misha - Jul 12, 2004 11:54 pm
Route Climbed: North Arete (Long Twisting Rib) Date Climbed: July 10-11, 2004Wow!! After choosing the start incorrectly and climbing / retreating a couple of pitches on the North face, Etsuko and I finally found the route and climbed it solo until we reached the notch between East and West Horns barely alive and completely exhausted. Fortunately we were able to find a small ledge on the North Arete, about 100' below the notch, where we spent the night. After a super cold night (our space blankets ripped and we did not have sleeping bags), we finished the route up West Horn and then traversed the NE ridge to the summit plateau. Summited at 2pm on Sunday and retreated via West Face back into Williamson Bowl. Packed out and went back to the trailhead the same day. Arrived to the parking lot at 1am completely wasted. What a climb!!
mrolph - Jul 12, 2004 10:44 am
Route Climbed: Long Twisting Rib Date Climbed: July 10, 2004Climbed the Long Twisting Rib on a 3 day trip with Sam Mills, Misha, & Etsuko. We hauled rock climbing gear all the way but never felt the need to pull it out of the pack. The climbing was mostly class 4 with maybe a few short 5.easy moves. Great trip!
Rick Kent - Jul 7, 2004 12:15 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 4, 2004Climbed the West Face route on the 4th of July. Weather was great. Route was tedious. The Williamson bowl didn't seem as bad as I expected (at least on the way in). The chimney turned out to be easier than I expected and was the funnest part of the climb. I kinda wish the chimney was longer because it only took about 10 minutes to climb. It's a bit of a surprise when you reach the top of the steep chimney and step out onto the huge plateau. About a dozen climbers were gathered at the summit. I believe everyone who attempted the climb made it. Oh, and there's still no summit register.