Mount Williamson Climber's Log
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|ghoulwe2||Route Climbed: West Face Route Date Climbed: June 25, 2005|
|Reached the summit of Mt. Williamson via the West Face Route at 11:00 AM from a camp at Shepherd's Pass. There is snow in the chute above the black stains to within 100' of the 3rd class chimney that leads to the summit plateau. Plan to use your ice axe & crampons. Several parties trying to summit from Anvil Camp were turned back - there is a lot of snow on the trail above Anvil and it is hard to find in the dark - advise a camp above Shepherd's Pass. Yes, it's a long, hard hike! Plan to leave the 6,200' trailhead EARLY to avoid heat and make the pass. Stream crossings are tricky, but doable.|
|Posted Jun 27, 2005 1:15 pm|
|rdesota||Route Climbed: North Fork Bairs Creek Date Climbed: May, 2005|
|Incredible weather - warm all the way to the summit. Skied from the summit to snowline - around 8600' solo. First few thousand feet is tortuous, sandy especially carrying skis, but all of it above snowline is wonderful.|
|Posted May 28, 2005 12:25 pm|
|bechtt||Route Climbed: George Creek Date Climbed: 14 May 05|
|Great climb -- perfect day. Friend opted not to go to the top but met Jeff from Long Beach (city next to mine) -- small world. George Creek is truly the classic bushwack -- had to be done once (although maybe next year to climb Barnard). Didn't see soslaw (below) & Jim at the top but saw them crossing Williamson basin on the way back to Shepherd|
|Posted May 22, 2005 10:21 pm|
|soslaw||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: May 14, 2005|
|Climbed with Jim under the finest Sierra blue bird skies. Snow in the Williamson bowl and the west face coulior made for ideal conditions. Literally a snow ramp to the base of the chimney. A lttle over 3 hours round trip from the bowl. Summit register buried in snow. Spent an half hour on the summit enjoying a 100 mile panarama of snow laden peaks, valleys and bowls.|
|Posted May 17, 2005 4:30 pm|
|marmoting||Route Climbed: George Creek and Bairs Creek Date Climbed: April 2005|
|It's such a heavy snow year, had to climb both brush-heavy routes while snow smashed down my nemesis. Heavy snow made it possible to dayhike each of the routes using only daylight hours. I love snow!|
|Posted Apr 28, 2005 11:28 pm|
|mattashman||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: 4 July 2004|
|Great route. Don't try to glissade the chute in late summer though folks!|
|Posted Mar 30, 2005 10:06 pm|
|RSN473||Route Climbed: W Face Date Climbed: 5-27-01|
|Climbed solo from Shepard's Pass - very good climb.|
|Posted Dec 22, 2004 11:10 am|
|Langenbacher||Route Climbed: West face Date Climbed: July 4, 1982|
|With my brother , Fritz, via Shepherd Pass, and base camp between Williamson and Tyndall. Met some guys on the peak we had met on Mt. Langley previous labor day. Unfortunately, they knocked down a rock that went zooming down the middle of the chute while we were descending. They yelled and I got out of the way just in time to see it zipping by, then I had to yell down at my brother 3-4 times before he heard me, since he was so far ahead of me. Whew! This was a really memorable mountain.|
|Posted Oct 18, 2004 7:56 pm|
|sierramtngoat||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 4, 2004|
|Fun chimney; we got an early start to avoid the unsettled weather; summitted with Balaji, Tom, Sundhi, and K-Balls.|
|Posted Sep 1, 2004 4:14 am|
|Ed Dorsey||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 15, 2004|
|Arnie Coleman and I summited on July 15th via the usual slog across Williamson Bowl from the upper lake above Shepherd Pass, our friend Chip made it up to the chimney at the top of the chute. The chute was much more unstable than expected, and we mostly stuck to climbing on the better rock on the right side of the chute. The chimney, while posing no real problems, got the heart racing at 14,000 ft (are you guys sure that's not Class 4, one slip and you're . . . ). Both Arnie and I squeezed under the chockstone with day-packs on. |
We looked for the summit register, even though it had been previously noted that it was missing. It appears that people have been taking out their frustration on the USGS Summit Marker, because the thing is really beat up. The climb down was uneventful, but makes your quads scream the next morning.
We tried Mt. Tyndall the next day, but only got half way up due to apathy and closing weather. We're going to have to go back up Shepherd Pass, damn. Also, how anyone could camp at Anvil Camp with all those mosquitos is beyond me (we camped above the Pothole . . . nice).
We hiked out on Saturday, July 17th, just ahead of a huge super-cell thunder storm that enveloped the eastern sierra from Cottonwood Lakes to the Palisades and knocked the power out in Lone Pine.
I hope grandpa made it out OK.
|Posted Jul 20, 2004 9:13 pm|
|mt_daydream||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 4, 2004|
|Very LONG approach! Was a tough one for me. Got sick due to altitude, but somehow suffered through the headache. Chimney near top was the most fun part. Very little snow on the entire route. Mountaineer's route on Mt. Sill (did it last year) was more fun I thought - start at about 6000ft, 8 mile hike in to camp at 12K feet, then a class 3-4 route to the summit, some glissading on the way down.|
|Posted Jul 15, 2004 4:36 am|
|RobertCharlesAltman||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 14, 2004|
|Wow, what an epic workout. Today I climbed Mt. Williamson in a day trip. My GPS said that Shepherd Pass trail (from trailhead to entry to Sequoia National Park) is 10.29 miles. |
Just below Shepherd Pass is some snow to cross in a steep shoot. There are foot steps dug in and I crossed without crampons or poles.
Nearer the summit, there is snow in a shoot about .2 below the class 3. Rocks on the right of the snow may be used to go around it. I imagine the snow is there year around.
Facing the class 3 "cliff", I took the steep class 3 "crack" on the left (without a rope, the way to the right seemed unsafe). I pulled up on rocks in the cracks and slipped under the rock near the top. Although it seemed pretty scary as I started, it turned out to be done in a few minutes with no fear. I also came down the same way and there was no problem-just one step at a time.. wedging with hands, arms, shoulders and hips and gripping and there were no problems.
See my very detailed Trip Report for this climb:
"West Face of Mt. Williamson in a day trip from Shepherd Pass Trailhead"
|Posted Jul 15, 2004 2:50 am|
|Completebum||Route Climbed: West face Date Climbed: July 12, 2004|
|Got as far as the black water marks on the 11th before turning around with some very angry feet, just missing out on my Tyndall-Barnard-Trojan-Williamson in a day traverse from the pass. Came back the next morning and made the top in 2:50 from Shepherds pass. Still no register to be found.|
|Posted Jul 14, 2004 1:14 pm|
|Sam Mills||Route Climbed: III 5.4 North Arete (Long Twisting Rib) Date Climbed: July 10, 2004|
|Climbed this route with Martin Rolph. Descended the West Face and back to our Bivy in Williamson Bowl in 12.5 hours. This route is rated 5.4, but as Martin stated below, mostly class 3/4 with a few Class 5 moves along the way.|
I found the arete wanted to keep leading me to easier terrain on it's east side. However, I tried to stay true to the arete whenever possible for a more challenging climb.
When first arriving at the West Horn and looking at the descent, I had to overcome the urge to wet myself. But after a short down climb and one rapel, Martin and myself found that R. J. Secor's descent beta is very accurate and that the descent off the West Horn is relativly safe.
|Posted Jul 13, 2004 2:59 pm|
|Misha||Route Climbed: North Arete (Long Twisting Rib) Date Climbed: July 10-11, 2004|
|Wow!! After choosing the start incorrectly and climbing / retreating a couple of pitches on the North face, Etsuko and I finally found the route and climbed it solo until we reached the notch between East and West Horns barely alive and completely exhausted. Fortunately we were able to find a small ledge on the North Arete, about 100' below the notch, where we spent the night. After a super cold night (our space blankets ripped and we did not have sleeping bags), we finished the route up West Horn and then traversed the NE ridge to the summit plateau. Summited at 2pm on Sunday and retreated via West Face back into Williamson Bowl. Packed out and went back to the trailhead the same day. Arrived to the parking lot at 1am completely wasted. What a climb!!|
|Posted Jul 12, 2004 11:54 pm|
|mrolph||Route Climbed: Long Twisting Rib Date Climbed: July 10, 2004|
|Climbed the Long Twisting Rib on a 3 day trip with Sam Mills, Misha, & Etsuko. We hauled rock climbing gear all the way but never felt the need to pull it out of the pack. The climbing was mostly class 4 with maybe a few short 5.easy moves. Great trip!|
|Posted Jul 12, 2004 10:44 am|
|Rick Kent||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: July 4, 2004|
|Climbed the West Face route on the 4th of July. Weather was great. Route was tedious. The Williamson bowl didn't seem as bad as I expected (at least on the way in). The chimney turned out to be easier than I expected and was the funnest part of the climb. I kinda wish the chimney was longer because it only took about 10 minutes to climb. It's a bit of a surprise when you reach the top of the steep chimney and step out onto the huge plateau. About a dozen climbers were gathered at the summit. I believe everyone who attempted the climb made it. Oh, and there's still no summit register.|
|Posted Jul 7, 2004 12:15 pm|
|dankras||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: June 2002|
|Endless scree and then some snow - not the best of routes, but a beautiful view from the summit.|
|Posted Jun 6, 2004 6:22 pm|
|PellucidWombat||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: May 22nd, 2004|
|The snow was pretty scarce, but it did cover the important areas such as most of Williamson Bowl and most of the crappy scree in the West Face Chute. The 3rd class at the top was straightforward and free of snow, although there was a lot of ice in the bottom chimney that allowed some fun crampon front-pointing while I used my hands to steady myself.|
Sadly I couldn't find the summit register! :-(
Only 3 more CA 14ers to go!
|Posted May 27, 2004 9:28 pm|
|mtnfoto||Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: 1976, 1977 & 1995|
|In 1976 the register was a stout book from the late 1920's. Lots of Norman Clyde entries!|
|Posted Jan 27, 2004 11:02 am|