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Mount Wilson Climber's Log

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FlexN Slopes Jul/04  Sucess!


A Fun solo up Mt Wilson followed by an even better solo of the ridge to El Diente followed by an even better glissade down El Diente!
Posted Jan 21, 2007 10:29 pm

weeds19Solo trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2001


I drove up to the Silver Pick TH (when it used to be open) after work on Friday night and completed a long day's trip to Mt Wilson, along the ridge and to El Diente. I was too busy picking a route to realize I was on the 4th class section of Wilson. When I looked up the summit was just a few feet away.
Posted Jan 18, 2007 4:22 am

shknbkefrom Wilson Pk  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2006


Did Mt Wilson after Wilson Pk. Stayed high in the basin at 13200', but probably should have dropped down as boulder hop was annoying. Found the cairned route to the notch. Avoided exposed 4th class ridge as it was wet to climbers left as there was a gully that was less exposed. No travserse to El Diente was thunder began to rumble on summit.
Posted Sep 15, 2006 6:37 pm

JCantu1044Route: Navajo Lake TH  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006


Hiked in from Navajo Lake TH starting at 7:15am and reached the summit in 8 hrs (includes breaks, photos, etc.) 6 hours on the return. This, my 9th 14er was personally my most challenging to date. Thanks to perfect weather all day, and fellow climbers along the way, I was able to identify the crux and safely navigate the class 4 moves without ropes, etc. Please note: Mt. Wilson is really not for beginners and should be climbed cautiously in dry conditions.
Posted Sep 5, 2006 10:02 pm

Brian KaletTraverse from El Diente  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2006

Brian Kalet

12 hours roundtrip from Navajo Lake TH. Trip Report
Posted Aug 21, 2006 4:35 pm

pjenson05Exposure was Exciting at the Least  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2006


Planned to do the traverse over to El Diente, but clouds, rain, and storms chased us off. The last 100 feet was exciting. If that doesn't make your heart beat, you have to be dead. Awesome climb in the clouds.
Posted Aug 17, 2006 3:24 pm

CODaveTraverse from El Diente  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2006


Awesome traverse, took us 2.25 hrs from summit to summit. Started w/ El Diente from Navajo Basin, traversed to Mt. Wilson, then traversed in talus below Gladstone up to Gladstone-Wilson Peak saddle and then on to Wilson Peak. Descended and left camp. 15 hr day camp to TH.
Posted Aug 12, 2006 5:32 am

seth@LOKICroosed El Diente in 45 minutes, not running  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 1995


Hard part was crossing the Boulders back to Navajo Basin.
Posted Jul 26, 2006 8:17 pm

km_donovanRoute Climbed: Kilpacker Basin  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2005


Bailed on the traverse from El Diente the previous day because of the weather. I did not have enough food for a second day so I hiked back to the car to re-supply and went the next day. A challenging and fun route. Bring your ice axe.
Posted Apr 28, 2006 5:58 pm

Mountain JimFrom El Diente  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 1969

Mountain Jim

Did the connecting ridge from El Diente solo, in a storm ... wouldn't recommend following my example ... pretty damn stupid.
Posted Mar 20, 2006 2:33 am

markhyamsStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 1997


We attemted the traverse to El Diente, but had to bail because of weather. Beautiful early-season conditions.
Posted Mar 3, 2006 12:16 am

LSRoute Climbed: standard Date Climbed: 07-sep-2005  Sucess!


See the trip-report here: http://distantpeak.com/web/mountains/n-america/mount_wilson
Posted Dec 26, 2005 4:48 pm

AndinistalocoRoute Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: 2000?  Sucess!


Fun climb and a neat little bit of scrambling up top. Great views of the area!
Posted Sep 14, 2005 1:31 am

doumallRoute Climbed: North Slopes via Navajo Lake Date Climbed: July 10, 2005  Sucess!


Summited with ColoradoScott. Nice introduction to 50+ degree snow.
Posted Jul 13, 2005 2:00 pm

ColoradoScottRoute Climbed: North Slopes from Navajo Lake Date Climbed: July 10, 2004  Sucess!


We climbed this route taking a variation off the Northern Rib route next to Navajo Glacier at 13000' by traversing west onto a 35 degree snowfield that steepened and approached 40 degrees near our exit onto another small rock rib. Then we climbed the snow couloir west of that rock rib continuously to the notch below the saddle. This couloir gradually steepend to 52 degrees near the top. Crampons and axe were mandatory for safe climbing on the perfect snow. The scramble to the actual summit was easier than we expected and we reached the summit at 11:00 am.

There were two people on top that we followed to the first saddle west of the notch and watched them strap on their skis and make perfect turns down the north facing couloir.

We continued along the ridge to El Diente, the route taking us three hours from summit to summit. The route finding on the ridge was fairly easy, cairns marking the route under the western points that needed a downclimb on the south side. Overall an excellent climb, but probably the hardest climb I've done to date. Not recommended for climbers without experience and equipment for steep snow.
Posted Jul 12, 2005 12:31 pm

sbkelleyRoute Climbed: North Face via Navajo Lake Date Climbed: July 2004  Sucess!


This one was a fun peak - and I thought it was easier than El Diente, but that's just me. The last 150 feet were a blast! College students aren't supposed to wake up at 4:30 in the morning.........but we did. Though it paid off because we beat the storms! Great views!
Posted Sep 9, 2004 1:00 am

bc44caesarRoute Climbed: Ridge Traverse Date Climbed: 15 Aug 2004  Sucess!


Traversed from El Diente, took somewhat less than two hours. Exposure wasn't as bad nor climbing as difficult as its reputation. There were no moves as hard or as exposed as the final ridge climb to Mt. Wilson's summit on the traverse. Still, it was a lot of fun!! Mt. Wilson's summit is the best I've been on in the San Juans!!
Posted Aug 16, 2004 12:25 am

RyanSRoute Climbed: Standard via Silver Pick Date Climbed: July 10, 2004  Sucess!


Erin and I finished the 14ers except for Culebra with this climb. I enjoyed the scrambling at the top -- what a fun jumble of pointy boulders!
Posted Jul 13, 2004 12:41 pm

mountainmotaRoute Climbed: North Face(2) Date Climbed: July 2002, 2003  Sucess!


Fun 14er!
Posted Jun 15, 2004 7:17 pm

xskier77Route Climbed: Traverse from El Diente Date Climbed: July 17, 2003  Sucess!


After an awsome climb up El Diente's west ridge we had an awsome traverse to Mount Wilson. The traverse was alot of fun with some great clmbing along the way. The final approach to the summit involved some great class 4 climbing and my climbing partner and I actually went separate ways climbing different lines to the summit. We were able to glissade almost the entire way down to upper Navajo Basin. Snow was perfect for standing glissade.
Posted Feb 1, 2004 11:12 pm

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