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Hoefats
Mountain/Rock
Hoefats 

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Allgaeu Alps, Germany, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.36610°N / 10.35070°E

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Summer

Elevation: 7411 ft / 2259 m

 

Page By: cjaniesch

Created/Edited: Jul 9, 2005 / Dec 29, 2008

Object ID: 154319

Hits: 3171 

Page Score: 90.95% - 38 Votes 

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Overview

Gepgraphical structure: Eastern Alps > Allgaeu Alps > Höfats-Rauheck Subgroup
 
Höfats is the most prominent and beautiful mountain in the Höfats Subgroup of the Allgaeu Alps. This picture shows the Southeast Face as seen from camp in the Oy Valley.


Höfats is rather a small massif than a single mountain, with quite a few subsidary summits, lying to the west of the generally SSW to NNE trending main range of the Allgaeu Alps and separates the Oy Valley to the north from the Dietersbach Valley to the south.The summit ridge carries four distinct peaks, the Northwest Summit, the Second Summit, the Third Summit and the Southeast Summit, the latter being the highest, beating the Northwest Summit by only 30 centimeters (according to the DAV-map of the area).
 
The DAV map of the area.

 
The West Face of Höfats from the Trettach Valley
Despite of its modest height of 2259 meters, Höfats is nevertheless regarded as one of the symbols of the Allgaeu. This is the consequence of the mountains´ prominence and appearance, which is ever-changing, depending on the direction and angle you look at it, but always steep and grass-covered from base to summit. An exception to this is the upper Oy Valley from where only the 400 meters high, rocky Southeast Face can be seen.




The classical view of the peak is that from the south, at its best from the Bettlerrücken (Beggar´s Back), the low ridge to the north of the Traufbach Valley. I haven´t been there but a nice picture from this perspective might be found here.



The origin and meaning of the name Höfats remains doubtful to this day. Groth, author of a comprehensive guidebook to the area, holds the view that the name is derived from the grazing ground “Uff´r Heffauz” which had been in use from the 15th century onwards. This name in turn refers to the name of the owners of “Uff´r Heffauz”, the Herfart family.While this sounds logical and is probably true, the peak used to be called Rothspitze until the 18th century and what circumstances affected the change from Rothspitze to Höfats is not known.

First ascended by O. Sendtner in 1848, who reached the Northwest Summit, Höfats has since become notorious for its richness in Edelweiss as well as for the frequency of severe accidents of those trying to plunder them. There is no easy route up any of the four summits due to the steepness of the grassy slopes (up to 70°) and the mountain becomes exceedingly dangerous in wet conditions.
 
 

The abundance of Edelweiss and other flowers and its near-complete grass covering are due to the aptychic limestone of which Höfats (like all peaks in the Höfats Subgroup) consists. This very stable type of rock provides ideal conditions for the growth of vegetation and is also very resistant to erosion.

As the east to west running ridges in this part of the Allgäu Alps are relatively low, the view from the summit of Höfats is quite comprehensive. Closest are the peaks of the Wilden Group (Grosser and Kleiner Wilder and the two Höllhörner) as well as the peaks Rauheck and Kreuzeck to the east. Generally mosts peaks of the western part of the Allgäu are visible, as well as the western part of the Hornbach Chain. Beyond the Lechtal the Lechtaler Alps stand out and even the distant peaks of the Silvretta and the Rätikon might be seen on a clear day.

Getting There

The logistical centre for climbs in this part of the Allgaeu Alps is Oberstdorf, which is most conveniantly reached by car. By way of the provided link you will be able to inform yourself about accomodation, timetabels etc.

It might also be reached by train with direct connections from most major German cities, including Munich or Frankfurt.

The actual trailhead for the climb is either Oberstdorf itself (if you choose to go via the Oy Valley), or the parking lot at Renksteg, a few kilometers to the south of the city (parking is 3 € per day). Renksteg is also served by public bus.

Routes Overview

 
From the top of Falkenberg the whole route up the South Ridge of Höfats can be seen.

A variety of routes lead to the four summits of Höfats, here an overview of the most common ones:

I. Southeastern Summit via Älplesattel:
UIAA II. Mostly steep grass slopes up to 70°. Approach from either the Dietersbach or the Oy Valley. See the route page for more detailed information.

II. Northwestern Summit through the “Wanne”:
UIAA II. Steep grass and overgrown rock. Approach by way of the so called “Wanne”, a gully reached via Gerstruben and the Inner Höfatstobel, and the Northwest Ridge.

III. Traverse from Northwest to Southeast Summit.
UIAA III. Ascend to the Northwest Summit through the “Wanne”, descend from the Southeast Summit to the Älplesattel. The traverse itself is an exposed climb on the summit ridge in partly rotten rock.



Any climbs on Höfats, especially the one up the Southeast Summit, are really dangerous in wet conditions. Do only attempt the climb in absolutely stable weather. Wait for the dew to evaporate after clear nights!

Red Tape

No red tape whatsoever!
The only thing to consider is that Höfats lies within the confines of a nature reserve, so try to be responsible, do not litter the place, pick no plants and do not disturb the wildlife (if you´re lucky enough to see any).


When To Climb

The best time to climb Höfats is probably mid June (when most of the snow will have melted) to the end of September. The smoothness and uniform steepness of the slopes make the mountain avalanche-prone, so winter ascends should only be considered by the very experienced.

Click here to get up to date weather information for Oberstdorf.

To inform yourself about conditions higher up in the mountains, there is a webcam on the summit of the Nebelhorn, while the Lawinenwarndienst Bayern will provide you with the latest information concerning avalanche conditions.

Camping

 
The sister peaks of Rauheck and Kreuzeck show beautifully to the east of Höfats.






Höfats lies within a nature reserve where camping is officially forbidden. If you don´t give a damn, camping is a good option and there are many suitable sites for pitching a tent both in the Dietersbach and in the Oy Valleys. Try to stay out of sight of the paths though and clean up the place before you leave.

If you rather want to stay in a hut, the Wildenfeld Hütte (unmaintained) in the upper Oy Valley beneath the western slopes of Grosser Wilder is within striking distance of Höfats.
Another unmaintained hut higher up in the valley is the Gutenalper Höfatshütte

Books and Maps

 
The dramatic Rädlergrat of Himmelhorn rises beyond the Oy Valley northeast of Höfats.


As I wasn´t able to find any English titles about the Allgaeu Alps you have to make do with German ones:

The excellent guidebook "Allgäuer Alpen und Ammergauer Alpen alpin" published by the German Alpine Club (DAV) should be considered as the standart work on the area.

As maps go, the very best is 1:25000 Allgäuer- Lechtaler Alpen West also by the German Alpine Club.

The adjacent sheet 1:25000 Allgäuer- Lechtaler Alpen Ost is not needed for ascending Höfats but could be used to identify what you see from the summit.

External Links

  • Report of a Hoefats Traverse (german)
    Traverse from Northwest to Southeast Summit in August 2000 with perfect conditions (hottest day of Summer 2000). Report from www.gipfelstuermer.de.

Images

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