Overview
Ascending the final pitch of Wetterhorn Peak (Class 3) Photo by Aaron Johnson, Summer, 2002 Wetterhorn is not one of Colorado's higher mountains, but don't let that fool you. This incredible mountain offers a variety of challenges to climbers. There are variations to the standard route, and a number of approaches as well. It can be climbed from the Matterhorn Creek TH, combined with Uncompahgre Peak for a long day hike or approached from the Cimarron drainages to the north. The standard route follows the southeast ridge. Recent route changes and improvements channel climbers to the east side of the ridge on more solid but slightly more exposed Class 3 terrain. Technical climbs on the northeast face have been done but are rare due to questionable rock.
This is one of the more challenging fourteeners in the San Juans because the last 120 feet is a very steep climb up ledges, and exposure is considerable, particularly for newer climbers expanding their abilities. 600 feet of exposure makes it a good candidate for rope in snow, ice, or in poor weather conditions, but the stretch may prove hard to protect.
Wetterhorn was likely scaled by miners working in the area during the silver and gold rush toward the end of the 19th century. The first known and recorded ascent was made by Utter, Barnard, Smedley and Smedley in 1906. Legendary Albert Ellingwood and Barton Hoag made the first ascent of the mountain's east arete in August of 1920.
Getting ThereFrom Colorado 50-Colorado 149 junction west of Gunnison, go south on CO 149 for 45.3 miles to Lake City. Follow the signs for the Alpine Loop (Henson Creek Road) to the bridge on your left, which proceeds to the townsite of Capitol City (not much there) and Engineer Pass 9.2 miles from Lake City. Take the right fork for 2 miles to Matterhorn Creek. The initial hill requires some high clearance, but most cars can make it past this point. A signed branch road leading up Matterhorn Creek is seen just before the creek on the right, climbing steeply from the main Matterhorn Creek road. Four-wheel drives can go up the road at Matterhorn Creek a half mile or so to the gate, where there is marginal parking.
See the Uncompahgre Peak page if this climb is combined with Uncompahgre from Nellie Creek Trailhead.
Wetterhorn Peak, as seen from its northwest ridge at sunset by SP member Jack Brauer To approach Wetterhorn from the northwest via Wetterhorn Basin, from the junction of Highways 50 and 550 in Montrose, head south toward Ridgway (38 miles) or Ouray (49 miles). Two miles before reaching Ridgway, there is a left turn toward Owl Creek Pass. A large green sign will direct you onto the well maintained road, Ouray County #10. Follow this road through the maze of ranch roads that criss-cross the beautiful landscape beneath Courthouse Mountain. The route is well marked with signs. Follow the road over Owl Creek Pass.
Just over the pass, take the first right turn (a sign indicates “west fork”) and follow the recently graded road up the Little Cimarron drainage 1.3 miles. In a cluster of trees, a modest sign indicating the trailhead for Courthouse Trail will be on the right. Blink and you will miss it. Proceed another mile to the stream crossing on a rougher road and park. If you prefer, drive another half mile to the end of the road and the Wetterhorn Basin trailhead. A 4WD vehicle is suggested to make the stream crossing. The road may require some moderate clearance from year to year. As of Summer, 2003, the road was maintained to the Courthouse Mountain trailhead and passenger cars could navigate it easily. 4WD or high clearance is recommended to reach the Wetterhorn Basin trailhead.
Route Information and OptionsAs of 2004,Wetterhorn's standard route has been well developed by the Colorado Fourteener Initiative (CFI). The mountain can be climbed by a variety of options once you are on the southeast ridge, and you'll find that many perceive the route options differently. Be sure to consult the SUMMIT LOG, ROUTE and TRIP REPORT SECTIONS (upper left hand bar).
SOUTHEAST RIDGE STANDARD ROUTE
A nice hike through forest and alpine tundra, followed by Class 2 and 3 scrambling on the southeast ridge. Recent route changes and improvements channel climbers to the east side of the ridge on more solid but slightly more exposed Class 3 terrain. The final pitch is exposed Class 3 scambling on steep, solid rock. Southeast Ridge Standard Route Details
WEST BASIN VARIATION
From a sign on the standard route, follow the trail through forest lands due north. The trail will sometimes be covered in water and get sketchy. Head up the valley on the left (west) side of Wetterhorn's southeast ridge if you loose the trail. Once in the basin, the trail is easy to follow up through some rocks. As you approach a headwall, leave the trail, climb right, aiming between the mountain's ridge and a domed rock butress. The route gets steep through here as you climb into the upper basin via a grassy gully. From here, climb directly east up Wetterhorn's very steep, tundra covered slopes. If scree is encountered, veer south (right) until the ridge is gained and follow the standard route from there. This option makes a fine descent route, and a sligtly more difficult ascent route, but you'll enjoy the solitude. See this TRIP REPORT for details.
CIMARRON WEST FORK APPROACH
Be sure to see the photos below recently submitted by SP member mpbro, which depict the route he recently executed. The approach begins in the West Fork of the Cimarron Creek drainage, ascends a pass west of Coxcomb Peak into Wetterhorn Basin, passes over a col on Wetterhorn's southwest ridge and joins the standard southeast ridge route for a stunning tour of this magnificent and pristine area.
    
For more specifics on these route options, including the final pitch, see this TRIP REPORT.
Matterhorn Peak 13,590'Follow the main trail, formerly a jeep road, northeast up the basin. When you arrive directly southeast of Matterhorn Peak at the upper end of a long gully, head directly northwest toward Matterhorn Peak and climb straight up the broad, tundra covered southeast ridge. A short Class 3 scramble at the summit block covers the last two hundred feet on the east side of the summit. Well worn areas will be evident. Loose rock is present but the climb is not difficult.
Descend Matterhorn's summit block the same way, and return the same route to camp. If you are continuing on to Wetterhorn, drop south off of the mountain toward a rock glacier extending from Wetterhorn's basin. At the low point, climb up onto the rock glacier and scramble a direct route toward Wetterhorn's southeast ridge, aiming for a gray colored area of the ridge. You will likely encounter the new CFI route in gaining Wetterhorn's southeast ridge. The climb to the ridge is gradual from this point. Climb Wetterhorn via the standard route from here.
Red TapePlease observe wilderness protocols.
Wetterhorn Peak is in the Uncompahgre Wilderness Uncompahgre National Forest.
When To Climb
Looking down the beginning of the final pitch of Wetterhorn Peak Photo by Jim Lierman, Summer, 2002 For optimal conditions, the best time to climb is July through September.
June may find winter conditions persisting on the mountain, depending on the snowfall from the previous winter.
Climbing in the winter (October through May) would make the approach much longer due to snow packed access roads, which may or may not be maintained, depending on snowfall. Snowpack will likely close the Matterhorn Creek road at Capitol City. Rope and small rack, including ice tools and screws are likely necessary.
Camping
Camping in the Uncompahgre Highlands. Wetterhorn (left) & Matterhorn (right) Peaks in the background.
Photo by SP member Morgan Brown
Camping is not permitted along the Henson Creek Road between Lake City and Capitol City but there are several pleasant camping areas along the North Henson Creek Road, at Matterhorn Creek, and below the Forest Service gate, at the parking area.
A small number of good camp sites, limited in size, can be found on the trail approaching the mountain.
Many isolated and primitive camping options, reached by backpacking, are available if approaching the mountain from the West or Middle Cimarron drainages. Expect alpine conditions exposed to the elements.
Mountain ConditionsTelluride/Western San Juan Regional Weather
GOES Western Satellite Image
“Wetterhorn” means “weather peak” in German. Lightning is always a major hazard, and hail, snow and rain can turn this mountain into a considerable challenge. If you are caught on this mountain in bad weather, crouch down, get clear of any metallc items and wait the storm out. Descend carefully in wet conditions.
Do not climb Wetterhorn or Matterhorn if weather is questionable.
Uncompahgre National Forest Web Site
External Links Images
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