| Palon de la Mare Mountain/Rock |
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| Palon de la Mare   | 
| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Alpi Retiche, Italy, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.41610°N / 10.61750°E Elevation: 12148 ft / 3703 m | Page By: marco979 Created/Edited: Apr 20, 2001 / Jan 30, 2008 Object ID: 150358 Hits: 4378 Loading... Page Score: 88.77% - 12 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
Palon de la Mare is a mountain belonging to the "Ortles-Cevedale group" in the Italian Stelvio national park. It ranks the top fourth mountains of the park in height. From the peak it is possible to admire the wonderful scenario of the mountains range of that region, among which Gran Zebru' (Konig-spitze), Ortles(Ortler). The normal route is easy, you have only to be carefull about the few crevasses! Not many people decide to climb this mountain: is not so popular like Cevedale" and San Matteo. The best season to alpinism activities it's between June and September: It's necessary absolutely to use the crampons and the ice-axe. It's also recommended to climb on the rope (presence of crevasses on the path).
Be careful: the area has been theatre of battles during the first world war. In case you find out any old war weapon, do not touch it and call the police guards!
Getting ThereFROM MILAN BY CAR: statal route "Vallassina" number 36 to Lecco and then to Colico (north side Como lake) and then Stelvio statal route to Morbegno, Sondrio, Tirano and then to Bormio (three hours). From Bormio only 12 Km to Santa Caterina Valfurva and then 8 Km to Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.
FROM MILAN BY TRAIN AND BUS: take a train in the Milan Central station destination Tirano and then a bus to Santa Caterina (4 hours).
FROM SUDTIROL BY CAR THROUGH STELVIO PASS: from Bozen (Alto Adige on the highway between Innsbruck and Verona) to Merano by main route and the by local route through Venosta Valley follow the signals to Stelvio mountain pass (2700 meters, the highest mountain pass reaching by car, open only in the summer period). From here to Bormio (3 hours and half from Bozen, Stelvio pass requires 44 bends to go up and 15 to go down). From Bormio only 12 Km to Santa Caterina Valfurva and then 8 Km to Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.
FROM SAINT MORITZ (CH) BY CAR: go to Pontresina and then follow the signals to Bernina pass. Turn left when you look the indication to Livigno (I) through Forcola pass (open only in summer period) and then from Livigno through Foscagno pass (2200 meters, open all the year) to Bormio (3 hours). From Bormio only 12 Km to Santa Caterina Valfurva and then 8 Km to Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.
FROM SANTA MARIA (MUNSTERTAL - CH) BY CAR: follow the signals to Giogo di Santa Maria (Pab Umbrail) on the border between Switzerland and Italy and then to Bormio (1 hour and half, border near Stelvio pass, open only in the summer period). From Bormio only 12 Km to Santa Caterina Valfurva and then 8 Km to Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.
FROM GERMANY OR AUSTRIA BY CAR: on highways via either Innsbruck or Bregenz to Landeck and then following Staatsstraße S 13 to the italian border at the Reschenpass / Passo di Resia . There the Vinschgau / Val Venosta valley starts that represents the northern border of Ortles-Cevedale group. At Prad the Trafoi valley starts that leads either to Sulden / Solda or via Stilfser Joch / Passo di Stelvia to Bormio. From Bormio only 12 Km to Santa Caterina Valfurva and then 8 Km to Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.
FROM PONTE DI LEGNO: through Gavia pass, dangerous route (very small) open only in the summer period. From Santa Caterina Valfurva to the Refuge ai Forni, where is situated a free parking area.
Look here the more info
NORMAL ROUTE:
From the refuge 'Ghiacciaio (glacier) ai Forni' (2.170 m.) walking trough an easy path in one hour and half to 'refuge Branca' (2.300 m.). From this refuge you walk on a moraine's ridge: when you arrive to the path that leads to San Matteo, turn left. Always on a moraine, you go up until about 3000 meters (2 hours and half from ref. Branca). After this altitude there is the glacier: you wear the equipment and climb on ice to East: when you arrive under the peak, turn left and go up until the summit (4 hours from refuge Branca).
CROSSED TO PALON DE LA MARE: It's a very nice possibility: in the same day you can continue the trip on the ridge to "Palon de la Mare" (2 hours) and come back to "refuge Ghiacciaio Ai Forni" from the Palon de la mare normal route. It belongs 5 hours from the "Mount Cevedale" peak to the refuge. If you you have some problem to complete the round trip, you can sleep in bivouac Colombo, situated on the ridge between the "Cevedale" and "Palon de la Mare" peaks.
A good idea may be to spend some days on easy mountaineering like Cevedale and Palon de la Mare and some others in the area. When you're ready for something steep, and you have the necessary experience, consider the climb to Gran Zebru. A guided climb may be an unforgettable experience for learning on ice climbing considering the technical aspects of the mountain. Mountain guides available through the information office +39-0342-935544.
Red tapeIt is possible to arrive by car from Santa Caterina Valfurva (Lombardia - Italy) to the refuge 'Ghiacciaio (glacier) ai Forni' (2.170 m.), where there is a free wide parking area.
Be carefull: the area has been theatre of battles during the first world war. In case you find out any old war weapon, do not touch it and call the police guards.
<Forni road rules
In the following period:
every day from the 07th of August to the 21th of ugust 2005
from 10 am until 12 pm (both direction)
from 2 pm until 4 pm (only to go up)
the road from S.Caterina to the Forni hut will be closed except for authorised persons.
A jeep taxi service is available though.
13 peaks tour
It's a tour that in few days without go down under 3000 meters lead you through 13 peaks of the region:
From Pizzo Tresero (m.3594) to Punta S.Matteo (m.3678)
- DAY 1 -
From Santa Canterina Valfurva (Valtellina - Italy) you go by car to Gavia pass. From here on the left side of the pass you walk through the normal route to Pizzo Tresero until Bivacco Seveso, and crossing South-West ridge on the snow (keep the left), you lead the Monte Tresero peak (m.3594 - easy passages on the rocks near the peak). Then through small rockes you lead Punta Pedranzini (m.3599): from where, without difficult passages, you arrive on Cima Dosegù (m.3560) From here you can admire the north side of Punta San Matteo! Then be carefull at the short ridge south-east (ledges to north). If the visibility is not good, keep the easy small rockes at south. To lead San Matteo (m.3678) walk on easy snow-ridge NW, (45° - use absolutely the crampons). From the peak you go down and through south side of Monte Giumella (m.3596 - easy to climb - few minutes from the path). Then go down to Colle degli Orsi (m.3304), in wich you find Bivacco Meneghello, that you can look when you are very near to it (ore 2.30-3, PD+).
From Punta Cadini (m.3524) - Monte Vioz (m.3645)
- DAY 2 -
From Bivacco Meneghello, after Col degli Orsi, you go up through West that leads on Punta Cadini (m.3524). Go down from here, you climb the easy rocks through Rocca di Santa Caterina South-ridge. You climb a small wall (few meters - II/IV level) and leaded "la Rocca" you arrive quickly on Cima di Peio (m.3549) from where, always through the ridge, you reach Punta Taviéla (m.3612). When you go down you have to climb the hardest passages on the rocks of the tour. From here to East, you arrive on Monte Vioz (m.3645), at few minutes to Refuge Mantova/Vioz (6-7-hours, AD).
From Monte Vioz (m.3645) to Monte Cevedale (m.3769)
- DAY 3 -
From refuge Refuge Mantova/Vioz you lead in 15 minutes the peak of Monte Vioz (m.3645), from where you go down to north, to pass of Vedretta Rossa (m.3405). From here you go up through the SW ridge of Palón de la Mare (m.3703), easy until the peak.
An other easy path the go down leads to Col de la Mare (m.3442), near Bivacco Colombo. You cross to Cima del M. Ròsole (m.3536) until the pass with the same name of the mountain (m.3502) from where, you arrive on the Monte Cevedale peak (m.3769), highest point of the tour. By Cevedale Normal route (look the description in the Cevedale page) you lead Refuge Casati (ore 4-5, PD).
Mountain ConditionsThe best season to alpinism activities is between June and September. To lead Palon de la Mare peak it's necessary absolutely to use the crampons and the ice-axe. Is also recommended to climb on the rope (presence of crevasses on the path).
Check the wheather forecast and any mountain condition at
Meteo Lombardia and Banca Popolare di Sondrio site.
Refuges and CampingsThe nearest campings are in Santa Caterina Valfurva and in Bormio. They are opening during all the summer period.
Refuge Pizzini Frattola
Refuge Casati
Branca-Martinelli External Links Images
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