Peralba is a nice mountain in wich rises the river "Piave", theatre of an important battle during the first war in 1917 between Austrian and Italian soldiers (along the path you would see many weapons about that period).

The normal route is easy, with some passage on the rocks to lead the ridge before to arrive on the peak. During the summer many people climb it, special in August. From the peak during the days of clear sky it's possible to admire a wonderful view of Austrian and Italian alps!

Getting There

You can arrive to Sappada from the Veneto side: take the Venice-Belluno highway and then go towards Pieve di Cadore.

If you come from Friuli leave the Udine-Tarvisio highway at the Carnia exit and drive towards Villa Santina and Forni Avoltri (45 km. ).

Those who travel by train stop at Calalzo, end of the line from Venice and Padova or Carnia on the Udine Tarvisio line. Train stations are about 40 kilometers from Sappada, to which they connect by frequent bus lines that meet the main trains.

The closest airports are the international airports in Venice (180 km) and Trieste (140 km).

From Cima Sappada (a small village near Sappada, not distant from Austria) by car or by foot through a path that follows river Piave, to the sources of river "Piave" (30 minutes by car, 3 hours walking). When you arrive to the parking (1800 meters), left the car and by foot turn right.

You see above you refuge Calvi (2167 meters) from the parking: go there on a easy path in wich it's possible to go also by jeep (only for the local people that have the authorization) and then to "Sesis" mountain pass (2300 meters - near the border with Austria). When you reach the pass, turn left on a path with red signals (scramble, some passage of first level). Through a part of easy passages on a rocks, you go up until the ridge; when you are on the ridge, turn right and walk until the peak (not exposed-2694 meters - three hours and half from the parking).

Route Overview

There are a lot of routes onto Peralba. Here is a overview of the classic ones. You can find more details in the (German) book by P.Holl, Karnischer Hauptkamm, Rother Verlag, ISBN: 3-7633-1254-4.

Normal Route (north-east)
Rated: I
Duration: 3h from Hochweißsteinhaus, 2 1/2h from Rif Calvi
East Face
Rated: IV
First Climbed: date unknown (de Infanti, Pachner)
Length: 200m
East Face / "New Route"
Rated: IV
First climbed: 1975 (Corrado, Cekada)
Length: 150m
East-South-East Face
Rated: III
First Climbed: 1963 (Dalla Porta Xidias, Slama)
Length: 170m
South-East Face Chimney
Rated: III+
First Climbed: 1919 (Samassa, Romanin)
Length: 150m
South-East Face "Via Pietro Sartor"
Rated: Ferrata
Duration: 1 - 1 1/2 h
South-East Face, left route
Rated: V-
First Climbed: 1933 (Pachner)
Length: 150m
South-Eastern Pillar
Rated: V+, A2
First Climbed: 1973 (de Infanti, de Infanti, de Infanti, Morassi, Prodorutti)
Length: 350m
Torre dei Fiori, South-East Face
Rated: IV-
First Climbed: 1972 (de Infanti, Bizarro, Gonano, dalla Maria)
Length: 300m
South Pillar
Rated: V+
First Climbed: 1934 (Pachner, Pachner)
Length: 550m
South Face
Rated: V
First Climbed: 1947 (Stabile, Floreanini)
Length: 550m
Torre Peralba, East Face
Rated: V+
First Climbed: 1978 (Rainis, Querini)
Length: 300m
Torre Peralba, South Face
Rated: V+, A2
First Climbed: 1970 (Ursella, Negro, de Infanti)
Length: 280m
Torre Peralba, South Pillar
Rated: V+
First Climbed: 1983 (Mazzilis et al.)
Torre Peralba, South Chimneys
Rated: V+
First Climbed: 1981 (Mazzilis, Cargnelutti)
Length: 300m
South-West Face
Rated: VI
First Climbed: 1982 (Mazzilis, Simonetti)
Length: 340m
Torre SAF, East Face
Rated: V
First Climbed: 1982 (Mazzilis, Moro)
Length: 235m
Torre SAF, South Face
Rated: VI, A2
First Climbed: 1971 (de Infanti, Rupil)
Length: 450m
Torre SAF, South-West Face and South Pillar
Rated: V
First Climbed: date unknown (Mazzilis, Mainardis)
Length: 450m
Torre SAF, South-West Pillar
Rated: IV+
First Climbed: 1978 (Barbarossa, Cergol)
Length: 300m
Torre Gennaro, South Face
Rated: VI, A3
First Climbed: 1971 (de Infanti, Grasinich)
Length: 450m
Torre Genaro, South-West Pillar
Rated: IV
First Climbed: 1979 (Linussio, Mazzilis)
Length: 360m)
Torre Gennaro, South-West Face
Rated: IV+
First Climbed: 1976 (Piller, Piller, de Podesta, Kratter)
Torre Gennaro, North Face
Rated: IV-
First Climbed: 1978 (Dabernig, Wiegele, Kaiser)
Length: 200m
South-West Gully
Rated: II
First Climbed: 1925 (Pittoni, Oberthaler)
Length: 700m
Torre Ravascletto, South Face
Rated: VI
First Climbed: 1970 (de Infanti, della Pietra)
Length: 300m
South Face of the Western Ridge
Rated: IV
First Climbed: 1973 (de Infanti, de Grignis, dalla Marta, di Ronco)
Length: 200m
Torre Ursella, South-West Face
Rated: VI-
First Climbed: 1970 (de Infanti, Negro)
Length: 300m
Torre Tolmezzo, South Face
Rated: VI
First Climbed: 1972 (de Infanti, de Infanti)
Length: 400m
West Ridge
Rated: I
First touristic climb: 1907 (Patera, Stabentheiner)
Length: 800m
North-West Face of the West Ridge
Rated: VI
First Climbed: 1982 (Mazzilis, Moro)
Length: 250m
North-West Face of the West Ridge´, Mazzilis - Kratter Route
Rated: V+
First Climbed: 1982 (Mazzilis, Kratter)
Length: 400m
North-West Pillar
Rated: VI-
First Climbed: 1984 (Ortner, Stemberger)
Length: 500m
Western North Face
Rated: V-
First Climbed: 1978 (Stemberger, Suppersberger)
Length: 500m
North Face, "Carmen"
Rated: VI
First Climbed: 1985 (Ortner, Ponholzer)
Length: 800m
North Face Pillar, "Nabucco ka Tatschi"
Rated: VI
First Climbed: 1985 (Ortner, Ponholzer)
Length: 800m
Direct North Face
Rated: V+
First Climbed: (Ortner, Leitner)
Length: 700m
North Face, Streitmann Route
Rated: V+
First Climbed: 1934 (Noe, Streitmann)
Length: 700m
North Face, Hans-Oberluggauer-Memorial-Route
Rated: V+
First Climbed: 1984 (Riegler, Ortner)
Length: 700m
North Pillar
Rated: IV+
First Climbed: 1976 (Holl, Kriedl)
Length: 600m

* for this section thanks to Gangolf Haub!

Camping and Accomodations

There is a camping in Sappada, near the river, open during the summer. The best place where to sleep are in Cima Sappada (4 km from Sappada to East through the route that bring to Friuli) and are Hotel Sorgenti del Piave (cheap and very confortable, look all the informations on the web site) and Hotel Bellavista (really nice and panoramic).

The best period to climb this mountain is during the months of June, July, August (crowed) and September. Looking for reach the peak during an other period is dangerous for the ice that you can find among the rocks. If arrive a storm or bad visibility for the clouds during your ascent, leave the mountain immediately and reach Ref. Calvi.

Books and Maps*

Maps

Lienzer Dolomiten / Lesachtal
1:50000
Kompass Map WK47
Kompass Verlag
ISBN: 3-85491-053-3
Gailtaler Alpen / Karnische Alpen / Oberdrautal
1:50000
Kompass Map WK60
Kompass Verlag
ISBN: 3-85491-067-3
Tabacco Maps, all 1:25000
001 - SAPPADA-S.STEFANO-FORNI AVOLTRI
009 - ALPI CARNICHE / CARNIA CENTRALE

Books

German Books

Hiking and Trecking
- Osttirol Süd
  W. Mair
  Rother Verlag
  ISBN: 3-7633-4132-3
  Good descriptions with maps covering: Defregger Berge, Villgrater Berge,
  Carnic Alps, Lienz Dolomites
- Kärnten
  G. Lehofer
  Rother Verlag
  ISBN: 3-7633-4187-0
  Good descriptions with maps covering: Carnic Alps, Gailtal Alps,
  Karawanke, Julian Alps (parts)
- Gailtal – Lesachtal – Karnischer Höhenweg
  Kompass Wanderbuch 982
  Kompass Verlag
  ISBN: 3-85491-500-4
  Good Descriptions with maps and elevation profiles covering: Carnic
  Alps, Southern Lienz Dolomites, Gailtal Alps
Climbing
- Karnischer Hauptkamm
  Alpenvereinsführer
  P. Holl
  Rother Verlag
  ISBN: 3-7633-1254-4
  Excellent overall Climbing Guide through the Carnic Alps Main Ridge.

Italian Books

ALPI CARNICHE E DOLOMITI FRIULANE
ISBN: 88-86928-37-8
Euro 16,53
to buy it
ALPI CARNICHE, vol. I - II
A. De Rovere, M. Di Gallo;
Guida dei monti d'Italia CAI-TCI; 1988

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