Overview
El Diente from Kilpacker Basin Approach Photo by SP member km_donovan El Diente means "the tooth" in Spanish, which is a most fitting name for this peak. It's Colorado's westernmost fourteener, being 0.8 mile west of Mount Wilson which is connected by a jagged ridge that drops to 13,900'. Since it rises only 259 feet above the low point of the ridge it does not qualify as an official fourteener but it remains on peak lists because it is named and is a sentimental favorite. The easiest route on this peak is Class 3 scrambling on rotten rock. It can be done alone or in combination with Mount Wilson. The Mount Wilson and El Diente traverse is one of Colorado's four great fourteener traverses, a particularly bad place to be during an electrical storm.
Dwight Lavender, Forrest Greenfield and Chester Price climbed El Diente via the Wet Ridge route on July 4, 1930, but had good reasons to believe theirs was not the first ascent of the mountain. Cairns were found up to the difficult portions of the route, leading them to believe an attempt was made but not completed. Lavender later happened upon an article months later written by Percy Thomas in the August 1891 British Alpine Journal, which stated that Thomas and N.G. Douglas, intending to climb Mount Wilson, ended up climbing El Diente, 39 years prior to Lavender's hopeful first ascent.
Concerning climbing conditions and route choices, climbing El Diente can be San Juan climbing at its worst. Considerable experience on other San Juan peaks is strongly recommended before attempting El Diente. For many, El Diente places in the top five most difficult of Colorado's fourteeners. Approach this mountain with an extra dose of experience, care and respect.
UNSTABLE ROCK DISCUSSION
UNSTABLE ROCK 101 ILLUSTRATION
Getting ThereThere are several different trailheads from which to climb El Diente.
NAVAJO BASIN access: Start on FSR-535 which is 6 miles south of Lizard Head Pass on Hwy 145, identified by a large sign at the junction as Dunton. Follow the dirt road west 7 miles where a side road forks sharply to the right as FSR-535, which descends into the narrow gorge of West Dolores River. This short side road leads to the Navajo Lake Trailhead, where there is ample parking.
KILPACKER BASIN approach: If approaching from the north, go south on Colorado 145 for 5.4 miles from the summit of Lizard Head Pass. If approaching from the south, go north on Colorado 145 for 9.5 miles from the Rico Post Office. Turn west onto the Dunton Road (Forest Service 535) and go straight at 4.2 miles, pass Morgan Camp (private) at 5.0 miles, turn north(right) onto Forest Service 207 at 5.1 miles and reach the trailhead after 5.3 miles.
WOODS LAKE approach: A recent alternative climbers have been using, including some SP members, is Woods Lake. This route climbs steadily for 2,000 feet before dropping 400 feet into Navajo Basin for a camp at the lake. Take the Fall Creek exit due south from Highway 145 for 4 miles and take a right on a secondary road, reaching Woods Lake at approximately 8.7 miles. If you know specifics concerning conditions on getting to Woods Lake that you would like to contribute, it would be much appreciated! Add you comment in ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS and I'll see to it pronto! Thanks! -AJ
THE SILVER PICK BASIN ACCESS IS CURRENTLY CLOSED.
Updated information on SP is found HERE.
Route OptionsNORTH SLOPES ROUTE
Recommended as a snow climb up the central couloir. Later in the season this route becomes a bowling alley of loose rock and is not recommended, although ribs of rock on either side of the gully might be safe alternatives. Experience in snow and rock climbing strongly recommended. Be sure to see the North Slopes route description by SP member Larry Versaw in the ROUTES section.
Climbing the North Slopes Couloir on El Diente
Photo by SP member skasgaard
SOUTH SLOPES ROUTE
This route is approached via beautiful Kilpacker Creek. The South Slopes route climbs steep, loose slopes. Access to the West Ridge route is also feasible from the area. Past Class 3 and 4 climbing and experience on loose San Juan rock is recommended. Return same route, or possibly descend the West Ridge if you are familiar with that route. Be sure to see the South Slopes route description by SP member Aaron Johnson in the ROUTES section.
An excellent report on the climb of this route by Tim Briese can be accessed in the EXTERNAL LINKS SECTION (below).
Descending the talus covered highlands of Kilpacker Creek below El Diente's South Slopes Route Photo by Aaron Johnson WEST RIDGE ROUTE
Accessed from the Kilpacker Creek or Navajo Basin areas, a route runs up directly to the summit via the West Ridge, which increases in difficulty as one approaches the summit. Expect typically loose San Juan talus in gaining the ridge and a number of challenging obstacles to overcome on sound rock. Return the same route or descend the South Slopes route IF your are familiar with that route. Be sure to see the West Ridge route description by SP member xskier77 in the ROUTES section.
Ascending El Diente's challenging West Ridge Photo by SP member xskier77
NORTH BUTTRESS ROUTE
Accessed from Navajo Lake, this mostly Class 3 (with a bit of Class 4 thrown in) route is a clean, solid and exciting alternative for folks that love climbing on dry, solid rock, which is a commodity not easily found on El Diente. Check out SP member Brad Snider's excellent North Buttress Route Description for the details.
Ascending El Diente's North Buttress Route Photo by SP member Brad Snider
TRAVERSE
The traverse from Mount Wilson to El Diente is considered one of Colorado's most difficult routes that can be done without ropes. Many folks use ropes on this route. Depending on your choices, difficulty can breach the Class 5 level, there is much Class 4 and lots of Class 3 climbing. The ridge is loose and time consuming. Traversing from El Diente is the recommended way to execute this option, both for logistic and expediency reasons. Allow a minimum of two hours for the traverse alone. Be sure to consider your route choice with a 7.5 quad map, and the location of your camp or departure point before launching.
A report with photos by Theron Welch can be accessed in the EXTERNAL LINKS section (below). Outstanding!
Traversing to Mount Wilson from El Diente Photo by SP member Ingman
Be sure to read the excellent trip report El Diente-Mount Wilson Traverse 2008 right here on SP.
The following photos illustrate the various routes and conditions on El Diente:
Red TapeThe Dunton Road is not plowed in winter.
The Silver Pick Basin access is now CLOSED.
Mountain ConditionsTelluride/Western San Juan Regional Weather
GOES Western Satellite Image
Loose and steep rock, snow, ice and exposed climbing await determined climbers on El Diente!
EXPERIENCE REQUIRED! Photo by Aaron Johnson Loose San Juan talus is a given on this mountain, and it is not the mountain with which to become familiar with possible loose rock danger. Get valuable experience by climbing with folks experienced in San Juan conditions and climb a number of Class 3 San Juan peaks before attempting El Diente.
Expect large snow patches to persist well into July after normal to heavy snowfall accumilations in winter. For the south face, bring an ice axe. For the north face, crampons are additionally advised. In warmer months, expect loose rock and exposure.
Access roads are not maintained in the winter.
El Diente is in the Lizard Head Wilderness Uncompahgre National Forest. Please observe wilderness protocols while visiting this area.
When To ClimbBest in summer and fall. Access roads are not plowed in the winter. Be sure to summit early in the day before the infamous afternoon thunderstorms develop. Expect loose rock and exposure.
An ascent of the North Slopes Route in June would make a good snow climb. Refer to Gerry Roach's book "Colorado's Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs." Highly recommended.
Avalanche danger on this mountain is immediate. Winter ascents are not recommended. Expedient winter access is not possible or practical, so a winter outing will require major equipment and provisions complimented by much experience and lots of time.CampingSILVER PICK BASIN CLOSED
NAVAJO LAKE
Backpack in to Navajo Lake where there are several camping areas below and above the lake. Camping at the lake is not permitted. No fees involved.
KILPACKER BASIN
Very nice camping at the trailhead if you plan on doing a day hike. For backpacking, follow the Kilpacker Trail northwest for 1.0 mile, then north for another 1.6 miles. Leave the Kilpacker Trail 200 yards south of Kilpacker Creek, just prior to a sign posted on a tree, and follow a good spur trail east into Kilpacker Basin which has two waterfalls near tree line. There is good camping below the lower falls.
External Links Images
|
San Juan Range
