Icy Peak is one of the "moderate" peaks in the North Cascades. Lying just North-Northeast of Mt. Shuksan, Icy is often overlooked when gazing at the hulking masses of rock and ice that dominate the area. Icy Peak, however, is a fine mountain.

Icy Peak has 2 main summits, at 7,062 feet the Northwest is the easiest to access although the Southeast Peak is slightly higher. Most of the mountain is covered by glaciers, however.
The summit rock consists of Tertiary Hannegan volcanics that are sitting on top of granodiorite of the Chilliwack Batholith. I don't have any more geologic details than that, but the exposed rock is pretty poor volcanic stuff.
The glaciers on the western side of the mountain are low-angle, and only moderately crevassed, although Spillway glacier on the Northeast side is more or less an icefall.

The quick rundown on the climbing Icy via the standard route:
--2 day climb from Ruth Creek Trailhead (Possibly one really long day for turbohardasses with perfect conditions.)
--You get to climb Ruth Mountain on your way there.
--Moderate route finding.
--Easy to moderate glacier travel.
--Class 3 to 4 rock at the very top.
--Probably not too many people.

More details below:

Getting There

From I-5 in Bellingham, Washington take Exit #255 to Highway 542 East, also know as Mt. Baker Highway. About 47 miles later turn left onto the Hannegan Road 32 (Ruth Creek Road) and follow signs 5.4 miles to the Ruth Creek and Hannegan Pass Trailhead and parking lot. This is an "improved" dirt road and is usually in good condition.

Red Tape

Icy Peak is inside North Cascades National Park, and a permit is required for treks into the backcountry, as well as a Parking Pass. The Wilderness Permit should be free, although the parking pass costs $5.00 (I think). You must stop at the Forest Service Glacier Public Service Center in the town of Glacier (on the way, 33.8 miles from I-5) to get all of the erequisite permits. Call them at (360) 599-2714 with any questions.

When To Climb

Icy Peak falls within the general season of the North Cascades:

Before April or May, and after October, you are winter mountaineering--which would be a great undertaking on Ruth Mtn / Icy Peak. But I have no wisdom to offer about that.
As for the summer months, July and August have the most stable weather--which is not that stable. If you have never climbed in the North Cascades be prepared for just about anything from crystal blue clearness to zero visibilty and wet snow.

To avoid crowds on the Hannegan Pass Trail and Ruth Mountain climb during the middle of the week.

Camping

Within the area of Hannegan Pass and Ruth Creek, camping is controlled on a permitted, by-site basis. If you want to camp at or below the Pass, talk to the Rangers at the Glacier Public Service Center (see "Red Tape" above). Camping above the pass, off trail in the backcountry is open wide as long as you have a Wilderness Permit. I recommend camping on the high saddle just West of the summit of Ruth Mountain, or in that general vicinity.

A Few Route Details...

The climb from Ruth Creek is pretty straight forward, and I've layed down the basics in the "Routes" section. Here are the most important tidbits here: (Don't read this section if you are really want to figure out the route yourself.)
In general, the North Route description in the "Becky Guide" is pretty much right on. After you summit Ruth (don't skip it, man) drop down to the high saddle to the west. Cross the ridge and head South toward the right side of the prominent ridge running South from Ruth's summit. Head for the notch--don't drop West below 6600 feet, and don't climb East over the ridge. From here you can do one of 2 things: Drop down into a steep couloir--if filled with snow, this may be a quick descent if the snow is soft, although you will be exposed to rockfall. Or, contour left and down the steep but broad slope on the East side of the couloir.
When you reach the bottom, I recommend traversing on the East side of the ridge for a bit (hop over if you came down the couloir), East of point 6099, until you reach the actuall saddle and cross over to the glacier on the West side of Icy.
From there is a straight forward glacier cruise to the base of the summit, although I encoutered a large bergschrund in August of 2001. Circle West around the summit to the South side. From here you can attack a few different steep gullies with crumbly rock (not recommended), or you may be able to continue around to the col between the summits and hop over to the tip-top of the Spillway Glacier. Then it is an easy scramble to the top of the Northwest Peak. Yee haw.

Icy Peak Links

I have a personal website where I post pics and stories from some of my trips. You may enjoy some of the pics from my ascent of Icy Peak in July of 2001. I have some topo images with the routes drawn in too.
Check it out:

http://members.tripod.com/hazenhart/icy_peak_7_01.htm

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