OverviewVallunaraju is one of the most predominant mountains that can be seen directly from Huaraz. (left in the title picture)
It features a double-headed summit and is a great acclimatisation-climb. It is one of the easier 5000m peaks, which is why even some expeditions offer this as a destination. A big benefit is the close location to Huaraz: There is no time wasted on apporach just for the acclimatisation.
You can find my Trip-Report with more infos on Huaraz and more pictures by going to my homepage: http://peru@UlrichPrinz.de
Please note: If you find any errors or outdated info on this page or want to add
more information, please send me an eMail, so I can correct it, or I can give you editing privileges.Getting ThereThere is an international airport in Peru, Lima.
From there, you normally take a bus north to Huaraz, a city at 3091m, which is a climbing, mountaineering and
backpacking mecca. From here you take a taxi directly to the Basecamp, following the dirt road from Willcahuain.
Expect to pay ~20USD one way. If you know already how many days you will stay, you can arrange to be picked up
again with your driver. (usually the next day in the evening or two days later in the morning)
Red TapeNo Permits, no summit fees !
Only a few pennies 'road' toll at the entrance of the valley ;-)
When To ClimbThe best season to climb is from mid June till late July and early August.
In an average year you can probably start as early as May and
continue until the beginning of September, but the rainy season
will usually drop in mid September
CampingCamping is no problem. The basecamp at 4300m is the only camp needed and it has pure water nearby.
Look at the Picture: The BC is on the left side shoulder
in the dark area. It is below the street, your taxi driver will surely know where to drop you.
RoutesAlmost all routes are fairly easy. On the standard routes there is
only a minimum of technical sections and the crevasses can usually
be clearly seen. (We didn't even use a rope.)
The long walk through the grass and rocks can be a bit tiring.
David Sharman describes many routes, but we seem to have used another
one (variation of his SW-Slopes) which is considered the standard route
in Huaraz, where you can buy a (handcolored!) drawing of the mountain
with that route.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you start early from Huaraz, you will have a pleasant day in the
sun in the Basecamp. Use the freetime and wander up
to the dam of the laguna and take a closer look at Ranrapalca.
Its a short but beautiful hike up there.
Books: Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru
by David M. Sharman
Go to Cordee Books & Maps
Map: The only map available is a very old (and a bit outdated) Alpenvereinskarte
from 1932. You don't necessarily need a map to get along there.
External Links Images
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