The Similaun is a beautiful mountain with a big northface in the east alps. You can see it from far away. It is situated southwestern of the Similaunjoch, just on the border of Austria and Italy. It has the same name in both countries.

In this region the "Ötzi" has been found. In the East, it has a clear-cut iceflank and firn and ice ridges to NE and NW. On the E-side there goes a steep rockflank down. In Sommer and winter (by ski) many people climb this mountain. There are many different routes to reach the summit.

In the region of the southern border crest of the Ötztaler Alps, there are many relatively little icefaces. But partly, they are very steep. The mountaineer who wants to try icefaces for the first time, finds a lot of very beautiful faces in this region. It is also very useful as training. Besides the Similaun N-Face, there also, for example, the Hintere Schwärze N-face, The Mittlere Marzellspitze N-Face, the Westliche Marzellspitze-N-face, the Finailspitze, the Mutmalspitze and the Northface of the Ramolkogel which one can recommend. But the most famous one is the Similaun-N-face. Iceclimbers like it very much. It is simply a pleasure tour. The first ascent of this N-face was undertaken by G. Schöpf and S. Raffel 1907, the first direct ascent by K. Jäger and H. Mayr in 1935.

For the Routes compare the section Routes-Overview below.

Getting There

1. To the Similaun:

a. You can come from the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2501 m).

b. You can come from the Similaunhütte (3019m).

2. To the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2501 m):

You reach the hut from Vent in Ötztal in 2 1/2 h. You have only to follow the wide road (without cars). It is marked with the number 923. It is a very beautiful way with a wonderful view through the valley along the river. There is no problem on this road.

You reach Vent on the road through the Ötztal from Ötztal (trainstation) via Ötz, Sölden and Zwieselstein with bus/taxi or car. In Zwieselstein, you have to turn right to the Venter Tal.

You reach Ötztal by train (station: Ötztal Bahnhof) or car on the A12 from Innsbruck (E) or from Bludenz (W) on the E60 and A12 via Landeck. Turn off at Ötztal.

3.To the Similaunhütte (3019m):

You reach the hut a. from Vent via Martin-Busch-Hut in 4-5h on a partly marked way, and b. from Vernagt in 3-4h. It is a marked way (no. 2). You need a secure step. If there is snow it could be a little bit tricky.

You reach Vernagt on the road from Naturns/Naturno via Madonna di S. Naturns is just a few kilometers western of Meran. You reach it from Meran on the road no. ss38.

When To Climb

The whole year.

Map

Alpenvereinskarte

DAV Service

Infos

1. GENERAL INFOS:

www.oetztal.at

Vent (also information concerning the bus from Sölden)

Plan of Ötztal

2. WEATHER

www.alpenverein.de

www.tiscover.com

avalanches

Phone: ++49-89-295070 (DAV)

Avalanches (Tyrol): ++43-512-1588 (OeAV)

Books

Walter Klier, Ötztaler Alpen. Alpenvereinsführer. 12th ed. Munich 1995.
ISBN 3-7633-1123-8

Erich Vanis, Im steilen Eis. Munich 1980.
ISBN 3-405-12158-2

Accomodation

1. Martin-Busch-Hütte (2501 m):

The Martin-Busch-Hütte is situated southeastern below the Kreuzspitze, in the back Niedervalley.

Martin-Busch-Hütte

2. Similaunhütte (3019m):

The Similaunhütte is situated above the W-side of the Niederjochglacier on italian territory. Official border transition: 30. june to 30. september.

Similaunhütte

Routes-Overview

1. Normal route/west ridge

from the Martin-Busch-Hut (3 1/2 to 5 hours) or from the Similaunhut (1-2h); descent: W-ridge in 3/4 h to Similaunhütte, 2 h to Martin-Busch-Hütte

2. East-ridge:

steep firn flank, from Martin-Busch-Hut, 1 h from Similaunjoch

3. South-ridge:

from Vorderkaser (6-7h) or from Mittelkaser (5-6h) or from Unser Frau (6-7 h)

4. Marzellkamm:

from Martin-Busch-Hut, 4-5 h, exhausting

5. Northface:

55°, 3-4h (Klier)

45°, much steeper at the end! 350 hm, face: 2,5-4 h (Vanis)

According to Klier

External Links

Steinmandl.de
Route description with pictures (in German)
Austrian Map online
Online digital maps of Austria (OEK 50, OEK 200 and OEK 500) by the BEV (Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen) - in German

Images



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