Overview"Unquestionably one of the outstanding mountains of the San Juans..." This quote from the San Juan Mountaineers Guide certainly says it all about Potosi Peak. Probably first explored by miners before officially climbed by the San Juan Mountaineers in the 1930s, Potosi retains its reputation exceedingly well to this day.
Potosi Peak from the bottom of the descent route, the summit still visible high above Yankee Boy Basin
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson Potosi Peak is the third highest mountain of the dynamic Sneffels Range in Colorado's San Juan Range, and one of the many jagged thirteeners in the area. Mt. Sneffels is the only local peak that is higher than 14000 ft (The closest 14er is Wilson Peak 14 miles to the southwest).
Potosi Peak is connected by a high and rugged ridge to Teakettle Mountain (13819 ft), Cirque Mountain (13686 ft) and Mt. Sneffels (14150 ft). These mountains and their connecting ridge form a giant cirque that surrounds Yankee Boy Basin. Like its neighbors, Potosi is known for its steep, loose talus slopes and rotten, imposing cliffs on all sides. The summit is a spacious flat-top mesa and ironically the safest place on the mountain. From the west, impressive Potosi Peak appears as a triangle whose apex has been cut off and replaced by a wall.
Potosi is without a doubt one of the more difficult and elusive peaks to access and climb in the San Juans. Though there is a limited number of route variations, access from points other than Yankee Boy Basin, such as the Weehawken Trail, pose as serious undertakings. To date, there are no official routes recorded from any access other than Yankee Boy Basin and the Sneffels ghost town site. Robert F. Rosebrough's "Guide to the San Juan Mountains," Gerry Roach's guide "Colorado's High Thirteeners," and the "Guide to Colorado's Mountains" (Ormes & Colorado Mountain Club) all touch on the standard route. Recently, a good route description finally arrived on SummitPost.
The mountain is among the most photographed mountains in America, appearing on countless cards and calendars as a backdrop for Yankee Boy Basin's world famous wildflower vistas. It is perhaps one of America's most recognizeable unknown mountains.
Despite its astounding beauty, Potosi is well known as one of the most dangerous peaks in the San Juans. The prolific amount of loose rock on this mountain leaves one astounded as to how it remains poised at such a steep angle. Rock fall potential is a given. Moving slopes and treacherous rock slides are common. Approach the mountain with much care and respect, and never underestimate its ability to be unforgiving.
Early morning view from the Potosi Peak route
Digital photo and panorama by Aaron Johnson
Here's the bigger version!
Getting ThereThe Canyon Creek Road is a dirt road that follows Sneffels Creek connecting the town of Ouray to Yankee Boy Basin. It is high clearance two wheel drive (although 4WD may be preferred) for 7 miles to the Sneffels trailhead. The road skirts the base of the eastern and southern cliffs of Potosi Peak before it reaches the Yankee Boy basin. Potosi Peak, however, can not be seen from the road until near the turn-off for Imogene Pass. You can get great views of its western slopes from higher in Yankee Boy Basin. Note that after a gate the road becomes 4WD and continues on to 3 miles to Wrights Lake and the trailhead for Mt. Sneffels.
From Ouray (elevation 7700 ft) drive the Canyon Creek Road. After a breathtaking portion of shelf road, bypass the entrance for the Camp Bird Mine by staying to the right. Another dramatic shelf section along a narrow grotto may involve driving under a waterfall, courtesy of Potosi Peak. A steep climb up a wider section of road follows. This stretch may be maintained or it may be in bad shape, depending on conditions. 4WD is usually needed. After the road levels, the intersection with Imogene Pass is encountered on the left. Stay to the right.
At the intersection to Governor Basin, stay to the right as the road climbs into Yankee Boy Basin. Potosi Peak looms above you on the right, gaurded by steep and imposing slopes, cliffs and gullies. When the road turns west and levels out, park well off the road or proceed up the road to just shy of the restrooms, where the climb of the standard route begins.
See the route page (upper left hand corner) for additional details.Red TapeThere is no red tape at this time.
How Not To Climb PotosiPotosi Peak is one of the most unstable rock heaps in the San Juans. Poised at an incredibly steep angle, it's amazing the talus of Potosi's south slopes stays in place. The photos in this section are from two early attempts by this page's maintainer to climb Potosi via the south slopes. NOT A GOOD IDEA! These photos illustrate how NOT to climb Potosi Peak, and this TRIP REPORT will explain how important it is that on this mountain you stick to the standard route!
When To ClimbThe mountain is usually climbed in the summer or early fall. Melt off during the spring poses tremendous hazards with rockfall on this very loose mountain. Winter ascents are not recommended due to immediate avalanche danger. Access in the winter with a vehicle is unlikely, and often hazardous due to avalanche potential.
Due to steep slopes prone to slide and avalanche activity, and rotten rock, Potosi should be climbed in optimal dry conditions only! WEAR A HELMET ON THE ENTIRE ROUTE!
CampingYankee Boy Basin
Camping is restricted. The townsite of Sneffels and local mines are private property. Please respect landowner's rights.Dallas Creek
Fine camping spots are available near the end of the road at the trailhead, along the trail and at the Blue Lakes. These areas are popular and fill up quickly during the summer, so plan accordingly. Canyon Creek
Thistledown Campground, about four miles up the road, is available, directly across from the Weehawken trailhead. Amphitheater
The Amphitheater Campground is located just above Ouray on the second switchback along route 550 south of town. This is a very well maintained fee area and the sites are exquisite, and some have wonderful views.
There is a KOA campsite in the valley north of Ouray. Mountain Conditions 
West Face Traverse and Gray Gully Descent in DRY Conditions
 
Dangerous loose rock on Coffee Pot and Scree & Rock in Southwest Couloir
CLIMB POTOSI IN OPTIMAL DRY CONDITIONS ONLY
Photos by Aaron Johnson
Telluride/Western San Juan Regional Weather
GOES Western Satellite Image
Potosi Peak is a treacherously loose mountain, and its reputation is well known. Notorious steep slopes covered in talus is a San Juan tradition, but this condition is perhaps no more apparent and hazardous than on Potosi Peak.
Expect and always be aware of rockfall from this mountain, which can occur at any time. Avoid getting off route onto Potosi's perilous slopes. A single footstep can cause an entire slope to shift on this mountain.
As with many San Juan mountains, certain parts of a climb dictate the use of a helmet. Wearing a helmet the entire time you are on this mountain is a good idea.
Always check avalanche conditions before heading into the Colorado High Country!!
Avalanche Conditions
Uncompahgre National Forest
Ouray Information
Ridgway Information
Call Ouray Visitor Center at 1-800-228-1876.
A SPECIAL TREAT: POTOSI'S AMAZING WILDFLOWERS  Potosi's Wildflower Spectacle  Wildflowers on the Descent
Potosi Peak is a rock heap, but it holds a few surprises for those willing to pause, look and notice. In the rugged and beautiful Weehawken Basin, a remote place despite its proximity to civilization, a wildflower and water paradise thives on the north side of the mountain. The summit is a squishy, sandy refuge in which alpine wildflowers ironically flourish during the brief San Juan growing season. The western slopes are treacherous, but a circuitous descent route takes climbers through a safe passage of tundra thriving in a lush display of wildflowers that rivals Yankee Boy Basin 2500 feet directly below.
Potosi Peak's west aspect from the south slopes of Coffee Pot
Digital photos by Aaron Johnson & Ellen Ritt
 Wildflowers on the Descent  Wildflowers on the Descent Images
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Sneffels Range, Colorado
