This mountain is not the funniest or the most beautiful of the Alps, but its two flanks are impressive, and it provides a typical high-mountain atmosphere.

The Schalihorn belongs to the Weisshorn group. It sets in the middle of the Weisshorn-Zinalrothorn ridge, and it is the Weisshorn immediate south neighbour via the Schaligrat (Schali ridge).

This mountain presents two summits linked by a rocky ridge which is 300m long. The highest summit is the southern one; the second one is 3955m high. It is surrounded with four glaciers: the Schaligletscher (NE), the Hohlichtgletscher (SE), the Glacier de Moming (SW) and the Glacier du Weisshorn (NW).
The E and W slopes are precipices swept by avalanches.

The Schalihorn does not involve major difficulties, but it can be really dangerous as soon as you leave the ridge.

Routes overview

All the routes are mixed (snow, rock, possibly ice). E and W faces are exposed.
Also see the photo attached to this section.

SSW ridge from the Hohlichtpass (3731m)
F/L, 1 or 2 hours depending on conditions. This is the normal route.
1st ascent: T. Middlemore with J. Jaun and C. Lauerner, july 20,1873

Hohlichtpass, W slope:
- from Zinal, AD/ZS 6-10 hours
- from the Ar Pitetta hut: AD/ZS 5 hours
- from the Mountet hut: PD/WS, 5 hours
Hohlichtpass, E slope:
- from the Weisshornhütte, PD/WS, 5-6 hours
- from the Rothornhütte, PD/WS, 3 hours

SSW ridge from the Hohlichtpass though the E slope rocks
F/L, 1 hour. This route can be used when the snow ridge from Hohlichtpass is too bad.
1st ascent: Mrs E. Main with J. Imboden, and R. Imboden, sept. 21 1895.

W face, from the Ar Pitetta hut and the Weisshorn glacier
AD/ZS, 8-9 hours
1st ascent: E. Wyss-Dumant with A. Bonnard, aug. 18, 1951.

W face, from the Ar Pitetta hut and the Moming glacier
AD/ZS, 4 hours. It is a bit less exposed to avalanches or falling rocks. Recommended for descent (1 or 2 hours).
1st ascent: E. Wyss-Dumant with A. Theytaz, july 28, 1947

N ridge from the Schalijoch (3750m)
AD-/ZS-, 3-4 hours. Bad rock. Often used for descent or to access to the bivouac.
1st ascent:E. Broome with A. Pollinger and H. Pollinger. aug. 28, 1903.

Schalijoch:
- W slope from the Ar Pitetta hut, AD/ZS, 4-5 hours.
- E slope from the Weisshornhütte, AD/ZS, 5-6 hours.
These two routes to Schalijoch are exposed and dangerous ! Normaly, the Schalijoch should be accessed from the Schaligrat or the Schalihorn only (traverse).

SE ridge, from the Weisshornhütte
AD/ZS, 6 hours.
1st ascent W. Alexander, H. Whitney, aug 1933.

A classical traverse
The ridge route from Mountet hut to Schalijoch bivouac is an AD/ZS long route (10h-15h), including Pointes de Moming and Schalihorn.
1st ascent H.Pfann and E.Christa, aug. 21,1901.

Huts/Bivouac

Cabanne d'Ar Pitetta (or Arpittettaz) (SAC hut), 2786m, 30 places.
SSE of Milon pass.
Tel: +41 27 475 40 28
URL: http://www.cas-la-dole.ch (French)
From Zinal (1675m): follow the waymarked path (4-5 hours).

Weisshornhütte (SAC hut), 2932m, 30 places.
500m above the Hohlichtgletscher.
Tel: +41 27 967 12 62
URL: http://www.sac-basel.ch/huetten/detail/weisshorn (German)
From Randa (1407m): follow the waymarked path (4 hours).

Schalijoch-Biwack (SAC bivouac) 3780m, 8 places.
In the first rocks of the Schaligrat.
URL: http://www.sac-basel.ch/huetten/detail/schalijoch (German)

Cabanne du Mountet (SAC hut) 2886m, 150 places.
Right bank of the Zinal glacier.
Tel: +41 27 475 14 31
URL: http://www.cas-diablerets.ch/Cabanes/Mountet.htm (French)
From Zinal (1675m) follow the waymarked path (4-5 hours).

Rothornhütte (SAC hut) 3198m, 84 places.
Below the Zinalrothorn SE ridge.
Tel: +41 27 967 20 43
URL: http://www.vs-wallis.ch/wallis/huetten/rothorn.html (German)
From Zermatt (1606m), follow the waymarked path (4-5 hours).

Getting there

Zinal:
By car from Geneva: take the motorway direction Brig/Simplon; exit at Sierre and follow the Zinal indications.
By train: there is a station at Sierre, and a bus between Sierre and Zinal.

Randa:
By car from Geneva: take the motorway direction Brig/Simplon, go to Visp (or Viège in French) and follow the Randa/Zermatt indications.
Zermatt:
By car from Geneva: take the motorway direction Brig/Simplon, go to Visp (or Viège in French) and follow the Zermatt indications until Täsch. At Täsch you have to to continue by train (cars are forbidden in Zermatt).
By train: there is a station at Randa and at Zermatt as well.

Maps:
Carte Nationale de la Suisse, 1:25000, #1327, Evolène
Landeskarte der Schweiz, 1:25000, #1328, Randa

See also:
Valais Tourism: access & transport

Red tape

No fees, no permits.

When To Climb

Summer.

Mountain Conditions

MeteoSuisse

Valais Tourism: weather

Glaciers

Sunrise serie

External Links

Valais tourism
Various information and resources about the Valais region (access, transport, weather, live cams, hotels, events...)

Images



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