Mount Bona at 16,421 feet is the highest volcano and the fourth tallest peak in the United States. Together with its sister peak, Mount Churchill at 15,638', they form a large glaciated massif at the northwest end of the Mount St. Elias Coastal Range.

Although technically in the St. Elias it is more closely related to the Wrangell mountains to the northwest. This tall volcano has trememdous views on rare clear days. Views encompass all of the major peaks of the ice field ranges including Logan and St. Elias.

Mt. Bona was first climbed in 1930 by A. Carpe, A. Taylor & T. Moore. Churchill's first ascent was by R. Gates and J. Lindberg in 1951. Both summits are easily attained from the 14,500 ft. saddle between the two.

Getting There

Fly to Anchorage then rent a car for the drive to Wrangell - St. Elias National Park via highway 1 east. Drive to the Chitina Airstrip inside the park to board your prearranged flight to the mountain. Most parties fly in to the Klutlan glacier at about 10,000 ft. Base camp is usually placed here.

Climbing Info

The standard route for Mount Bona and Mount Churchill ascends up to the saddle between the two summits. From here it is easy to summit both in one expedition. Read this route for details.

Red Tape

Located within the boudaries of Wrangell St. Elias Park and Preserve the area is blessedly free of any permit requirements. If intending to do a route that lies within Canada you must contact Kluane National Park to get a permit.

When To Climb

April through June are the most common months for climbing in the area. Winter climbing is very rare due to severe weather conditions but is sometimes done. Late summer poses problems with glacier landings and failing crevasse bridges.

Camping

There are no federal camping facilities in the park. Several private lodges and bed and breakfast establishments are located along the McCarthy and Nabesna roads, in McCarthy and Kennicott, and in the highway communities. The Bureau of Land Management and the state of Alaska run campgrounds along the Richardson Highway, Tok Cutoff and Edgerton Highway. You may camp anywhere in the park, but be aware that there is considerable private land, particularly along the Nabesna and McCarthy road corridors
Park Headquarters and Visitor Center is located in Copper Center near Glenallen on the Richardson Hwy.

Mountain Conditions

Condtions change fast in these mountains and your best bet is to just go and wait for your window of opportunity. Glaciers are highly active and crevasse experiance is mandatory. Crevasse falls are common. Bring wands to mark your your route as white out conditions are also common.

Miscellaneous Info

Colby Coombs new book, Alaska, A Climbing Guide has much route information on peaks in the area and throughout Alaska.
Paul Claus of Ultima Thule is the main pilot for the area and is also a climiber. He has a wealth of knowledge about the area.
Wrangell St. Elias Park and Preserve
Wrangell Mountain Air
Information on the Ice Coring Expeditionand results.

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