Overview
Mount Challenger stands as the northern anchor of the Picket Range of Washington State. This area is the most rugged and remote mountain wilderness in the lower 48 states (somewhat arguable, but not very) deep in the northern section of North Cascades National Park. Challenger and the majority of the Picketts are not visible from any road and no trails offer particularly good views of the area. The climate is quite atrocious, probably the worst in all the Cascades. The valleys surrounding the Pickets are filled with wild and all but impenetrable temperate rainforest choked with brush and blowdown. The terrain is steep and cliffy from valley bottom to peak and the whole area is riddled with wildly disrupted glaciers calving off seracs to the valleys far below. There are no walk up routes in the Pickets. Here one must deal with the peaks on their own terms, over days of real hardship. All of this conspires to make climbing in the Pickets a unique, incredible, but challenging experience at best, and a full on epic at worst. The vibe here is very different than anywhere else in the Cascades. There are fewer climber's trails, more and rougher gound to cover, and less people.
Because of the remoteness, bad weather, and overall ruggedness, people are comparatively few here, although the area has become somewhat legendary and thus, everyone at least wants to go there. Few actually make it to the peaks though.
If all that sounds dark and gloomy, sorry, it's all true, but it's also true that a perfectly clear summit day anywhere in the Pickets, after the challenges of the approach have passed is pretty much climbing Nirvana for all the same reasons that make this place so challenging.
Note: I tried to climb Challenger, but did not make it (take warning). There are also numerous other approaches and routes that I have not even seen. I'm hoping this site will prod those who have climbed this mountain but are too lazy to make their own page to share their information so others may do so also.
Getting There
There are two main corridors of approach to Mt. Challenger: Hannegan Pass Trailhead and Ross Lake/Big Beaver Creek Trailhead.
To get to the Hannegan Trailhead, drive north from Seattle or south from Vancouver BC on I-5 to the college town of Bellingham. Take the exit for Highway 542 and drive this east lots of miles through the towns of Maple Falls and Glacier. Just before the highway crosses the Nooksack River and begins a steep climb, take a left onto the gravel Ruth Creek Road. A sign mentions Hannegan Pass Trailhead. Drive this road about four miles to the trailhead.
To get to the Ross Lake Trailhead, Drive north from Seattle or south from Vancouver BC on I-5 to the town of Burlington (just past Mt. Vernon from Seattle). Get off at the exit for Highway 20. Drive this east for lots of miles through Sedrow Wolley, Marblemount, and Newhelm. Pass Diablo Lake and find the Ross Lake Trailhead on the left side of the highway (possibly signed for Ross Lake Resort). Hike downhill about one mile to Ross Dam and the Ross Lake Resort. A boat can be taken ($20 for up to five people) or a trail hiked six miles up the west shore of the lake to the Big Beaver Creek Trailhead.
Red Tape
A Northwest Forest Pass ($5/day, $30 annual) is required to park at either trailhead. A free backcountry camping permit is required for each night spent in the National Park. Be aware if you're planning to stay at the major valley backcountry campgounds that they do fill up even during the week. This permit can be obtained at the Glacier Public Service Center or the Marblemount Ranger Station.
When To Climb
I wouldn't suggest doing this one until the snow has at least melted out of the forested areas, usually early July. The season usually last through late September, early October if you're lucky. It has been climbed in the winter, but that would be an excercise in misery.
Camping
From the Hannegan Trailhead, there are camprounds at Hannegan (no Ntnl Pk permit required), Boundary, Copper Creek, and one other just past the turnoff from the Chilliwack River Trail to the Easy Ridge Trail. These campgounds all have quotas. Cross-country camping (still requires a permit) is allowed on Easy Ridge and pretty much any suitable place in the Pickets (there aren't many).
From Ross Lake, quota camping is allowed at Big Beaver, 10-Mile, and Luna. Cross country on Challenger Arm.
Mountain Conditions
This one probably isn't climbed enough to get really accurate conditions, but the North Cascades National Park website has good general information. As far as the weather goes, if the forecast is looking unstable at all for Seattle, don't go. It will be raining. Note my confidence.
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