The Citadel is an obscure mountain on the Continental Divide, just north of the Eisenhower Tunnel and Loveland Ski area. Denoted as Point 13,294 on the Loveland Pass Quad map, the mountain is known as The Citadel only to the relative few who have climbed it, or have read the earlier CMC/Robert Ormes guides. As the name implies, the twin summits of this impressive peak are well guarded. A towering fortress of cliffs prevents easy access. The height difference between the two summits is negligible and is not likely to be officially determined due to this beautiful mountain's low profile. The only route, presented here, non technical in nature, is Class 3. A Class 4+ route is loosely described here.

Situated at the head of three drainages, The Citadel is tucked away in one of Colorado's most beautiful areas, and is unseen from roads unless viewed from Loveland Pass to the south. The mountain is otherwise beheld from neighboring peaks or hiking trails in the area. Although the area is not a wilderness and is close to the comforts of modern civilization, it remains a stunningly gorgeous place with all the embellishments a wilderness area would offer. The Citadel, though not the highest peak in the vicinity, is the jewel of this magnificent area.

Because The Citadel is a low 13er, it is visited only by those seeking solitude and a moderate Class 3 climbing challenge. Traffic on the mountain is light compared to its lofty 14er neighbors across the highway, Grays and Torreys peaks. Nearby Pettingell is higher and sees more climbing traffic. Nonetheless the area is subject to rapid erosion factors. Please exercise care and tread lightly when visiting the area and any peaks you may climb.

Climbing the Citadel, or just a visit to Herman Lake is a rewarding experience. Take time to soak in the beauty of this place. There is much to do and explore, so it is likely you will return. The more time you spend to relax, the more you'll appreciate this fragile and currently unprotected area.

Getting There

The trailhead areas are accessed from Interstate 70. Drive west from Denver on Interstate 70. The Herman Gulch approach, just under 3 miles away, is the next exit west of the Bakerville exit, which is used to approach the Grays and Torrey's peaks standard route. The Dry Creek approach is another 2 miles west from Herman Gulch, off of the Loveland Pass exit. From the west, the Dry Gulch trailhead is accessed via the Loveland Pass exit, under 1 mile from the Eisenhower tunnel, and Herman Gulch is 2 miles further east.

Please refer to the routes section of this page for a detailed route description.

When To Climb

Early starts are recommended during the summer, since the large parking area at Herman Gulch can fill to capacity by 9 or 10. Dry Gulch sees less use.

Optimal dry conditions will be enjoyed July through September, when standard hiking gear will suffice. If your party is inexperienced with loose rock, helmets might be a good idea for the short summit gully.

Healthy amounts of snow will be encountered on the Citadel in June. The summit gully would be a pleasant but steep climb on stable, hard snow. Do not attempt in snow without an ice axe. Roped parties of 2 would increase safety.

The Herman and Watrous Gulch trails are popular winter outing locales, Dry Gulch less so. Avalanche danger is considerable in all of these drainages during normal and heavy winters.

The Citadel would be a dangerous proposition in early or late winter (October-May). It should be attempted only by highly experienced climbers familiar with winter conditions, with appropriate gear. The summit gully would present a focused avalanche danger in heavy winters. Quick escape from this gully in an avalanche would be impossible. Rely on your experience and sound judgment before attempting The Citadel in the winter.

An avalanche on the SE face between the East and South ridges killed a climber on February 18th, 2003. His partner barely escaped.

Avalanche runs are present in all drainages accessed by these trailheads and run regularly in normal and heavy winters.

Who Should Climb

Hikers wishing to expand their climbing abilities will find the Citadel a challenge, but a good forum in which to learn about loose rock, sound rock and exposure. In June, this mountain would be a great clinic for practicing snow climbing techniques. Ice axe work and glissade opportunities abound.

Inexperienced climbers should climb with someone who is experienced in Class 3 terrain, or with someone who has climbed The Citadel previously. Under good leadership, the Citadel is a safe and rewarding experience.

Experienced climbers will find The Citadel an enjoyable romp with many scrambling possibilities. Technical climbs are possible, but no record of such ascents have been found to date, possibly due to the mountain's low prominence. Many Class 4 and 5 routes await discovery on the east and west faces.

Red Tape

This is an unprotected, general use area of the Arapaho National Forest. No fees or permits are required. Dogs must be kept on a leash. Unleashed dogs on the Herman Gulch trail are a continuing problem, and fines have been levied. Please sign the register. This aids in the management of this heavily used area.

Dry Gulch is not marked and the status is somewhat unofficial. No signs barring access have been posted. The gate provides access to a storage yard, which remains unattended, neglected and out of view from the highway.

Camping

Camping is allowed in the area. Please observe wilderness protocols when camping. Good camping can be found in the higher portions of Watrous, Herman and Dry gulches. Alpine camping at Herman Lake is popular.

Mountain Conditions

FOREST SERVICE REGIONAL OFFICE INFORMATION
740 Simms Lakewood, Colorado
Office Hours: 7:30-4:30
Information: 303-275-5350
Avalanche Recording: 303-275-5364

ARAPAHO NATIONAL FOREST
Phone: 303-275-5610

Loveland Pass Area Forecast

GOES Western US Satellite Image

COLORADO STATE PATROL ROAD CONDITIONS STATEWIDE
303-639-1111

The Citadel is in a remote location and any acquired information should not be considered specific to the mountain, and may not be accurate due to changing conditions on the mountain.

Avalanche Record

The Citadel resides in an area notorious for avalanche activity, even in nominal conditions. Safe procedures, knowledge and awareness cannot be stressed enough! Better yet, avoid this dangerous area during the winter. Below is a record of avalanche incidents that have occurred since this page was constructed. Please be careful out there!

February 17, 2003
An experienced climber triggered an avalanche while descending the Citadel. Unable to locate him, his partner went for help. Searchers retrieved the body from under five feet of snow the following day. Use your informed judgement, and consult with local authorities before proceeding!

Februrary 15, 2004
An avalanche swept two of five skiers 1300 vertical feet, burying two of them. One woman was able to dig herself out of the snow. Rescuers were able to revive the other buried skier. He was airlifted to Saint Anthony Central Hospital in Denver. A spokesman from Clear Creek County Sheriff, says rescuers credit the woman with saving his life, and calling her a hero. All five skiers were wearing avalanche beacons, were adequately prepared and experienced.

Colorado Avalanche Accidents & Conditions

Seasons on the Citadel

SP member mitzflp recently climbed the Citadel and informed this page's maintainer of his photo submissions, which were purposely shot at the same approximate angles as those previously posted to display the Citadel's ever changing character through the seasons. This great idea is a fine example of how member collaboration improves the quality of SP's content and contributes to SP's continued success!

Mount Bethel 12,705'

Mount Bethel resides at the east end of the ridge extending from the Citadel. This mountain is most often seen from Interstate 70. Most Colorado folks know the mountain by the large snow fences perched on its steep west face, which are seen when emerging from the Eisenhower Tunnel eastbound for Denver.

Mount Bethel can be quickly climbed by a wide variety of routes, usually beginning in the Dry Creek drainage. It makes for a great half day outing if you are short on time but need a quick altitude fix. The view is surprisingly good from the top, and chances are you'll have the mountain to yourself. A variety of route possibilities offer many opportunities to explore the area, and a nice ridge walk to the Citadel is one of these enticing options.

The quickest way to climb Mount Bethel is from the gate on the Dry Creek approach. Bethel and its snow fences will be peering down on you. Walk up the road due east, and as you pass the storage area on the right, scramble up a steep slope to a bench beneath the trees. This places you on an old road long since unused. Walk the road to a spot that looks suitable and strike out, climbing northeast in a direct line up through the trees. This is a minor bushwack, angling slightly left as you climb. You should emerge above timberline just below the famous snow fences. Ascend directly between or just left of the fences. Beyond the fences, angle more to your left for a direct summit assault, or simply assume the ridge for a final stroll to the summit. A great view will be your reward.

Return the same route, or follow the ridge toward the escarpment of the Citadel. There are plenty of safe bail options from this ridge back into Dry Creek, including a saddle between Bethel and the rest of the ridge.

DISTANCE: 1.5 miles
GAIN: 2,100 feet

Bethel can also be climbed from Herman Gulch, once the creek has been navigated. Any number of route possibilities will present themselves.

Bethel is prone to avalanche activity in the winter. Do not attempt this mountain in unsafe winter conditions (which would be most of the winter).

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