OverviewSeen from Colorado Highway 550 north of Ridgway, Courthouse Mountain is readily identifiable. This unique mountain is one of many jagged and dramatic San Juan summits that greet the visitor approaching the range from the north. The courthouse shaped appearance of the peak resulted in its name back when Colorado was first being explored. The mountain is in the area once known as the Big Blue Wilderness, one of the first five Colorado wilderness areas that was so designated 1980. The area has since been expanded and renamed the Uncompahgre Wilderness.
Other than climbing, Courthouse Mountain doesn’t have much of a history, but what little it does have is impressive. Courthouse and Chimney Rock, as well as nearby Mt. Sneffles were featured to a flattering degree in two prominent western movies. “How The West Was Won” and the memorable John Wayne classic “True Grit” utilized these mountains in their full scenic splendor during the legendary San Juan fall.
A jagged spine of rock spires stands between Courthouse and its striking companion feature, the imposing sheer tower of Chimney Rock. At 11,781 feet, this bastion of stone captures everyone’s immediate attention, including those of movie producers. In True Grit, Chimney Rock served as a backdrop during Rooster Cogburn’s (Wayne) unforgettable horse-riding, double-rifled-slinging match with reins in his teeth against three outlaws. No doubt the imagination of the ambitious technical climber is captured as well, yet very few take on the challenge. The towering Chimney Rock spire was first climbed in 1934 by Melvin Griffiths and Robert Ormes. See the Chimney Rock section below.
Courthouse is only 12,152 feet high, but don’t be fooled. The easiest and currently only route on this mountain is a steep Class 2 scramble through imposing defenses most would not expect. The south, west and north sides are sheer cliff faces, at times a thousand feet high. No known ascents of these faces have been officially recorded, no doubt due to the questionable nature of the rock. Aside from the unique appearance, Courthouse is an obscure summit that is only climbed regularly by the locals. The height and location make solitude a near certainty and…did I fail to mention…the view?
Getting ThereFrom the junction of Highways 50 and 550 in Montrose, head south toward Ridgway (38 miles) or Ouray (49 miles). Two miles before reaching Ridgway, there is a left turn toward Owl Creek Pass. A large green sign will direct you onto the well maintained road, Ouray County #10. Follow this road through the maze of ranch roads that criss-cross the beautiful landscape beneath Courthouse Mountain. The route is well marked with signs. Follow the road over Owl Creek Pass.
Just over the pass, take the first right turn and follow the recently graded road up the Little Cimarron drainage 1.3 miles. In a cluster of trees, a modest sign indicating the trailhead for Courthouse Trail will be on the right. Blink and you will miss it. Park well off the road. The road may require some moderate clearance from year to year. As of Summer, 2003, the road was maintained to the trailhead and passenger cars could navigate it easily.
Red TapeThe Little Cimarron (West Fork) road is not open during the winter. Owl Creek Pass closes in serious winters.
Courthouse Mountain and Chimney Rock are in the Uncompahgre Wilderness. Please follow wilderness protocols during your visit.
When To ClimbMid June through September are optimal times for climbing this mountain. Be off the summit and on your way down by noon to avoid thunderstorms. A snow climb in May or June should be done with appropriate winter gear. Avalanche possibilities are considerable above tree line on the route described herein. Winter ascents are not recommended except by highly experienced mountaineers versed in winter environments.
CampingSilverjack Reservoir to the north in the Cimarron Valley has established camp sites, and many fine sites are available near the confluence of the Middle and East forks of the Cimarron River. Camping in the West Fork of the Cimarron is available along the road south of Owl Creek Pass. There is no camping on the west side of Owl Creek Pass as the road passes through private property.
Mountain ConditionsTelluride/Western San Juan Regional Weather
GOES Western Satellite Image
Courthouse Mountain is comprised of steep slopes and sections of rock scrambling that would be made dangerous in wet conditions due to high cliffs. Do not attempt the mountain without appropriate gear.
Courthouse Mountain, visible from civilization, is anything but civilized. Due to the obscure nature of the mountain, it is possible for weather conditions to be vastly different from the valleys below. Consider the appearance of the mountain in addition to any weather information you have acquired before taking the long journey up Owl Creek Pass.
Uncompahgre National Forest Web Site
Chimney RockChimney Rock can only be climbed with rope and gear, and to date only one route is currently recognized as official. From the Cimarron Road, hike up a logging road due west and make your way past cliff bands (low 5th class) into the amphitheater at the base of Chimney Rock. The first of four pitches up a long chimney crack begins here.
The only known standard route follows the south side chimney (four short pitches), with a large chock rock to maneuver around well into the climb. Bob Rosebrough states that from the chimney top, a traverse to the right through extreme exposure precedes another roped pitch before the summit. Large pieces and slings are needed for small chock stones on the route. The route is on unreliable conglomerate rock and is rated 5.5 to 5.6. Two fine douple rope rappels are used for the descent. New rappel anchors were installed in the Spring of 2004. Some sections are difficult to protect, which may explain why this unique summit is rarely climbed.
Robert Ormes and Mel Griffiths made the first ascent of Chimney Rock in September of 1934.
In July 2007, two SP members climbed the route. Jackie Ellis (cruzit) and Barry Raven (attm) ascended the route and reported dangerous conditions and lousy rock quality. As a result of this poor rock quality, SP member Alan Ellis took a lead fall and sprained his ankle, compelling him to bow out of the climb. Trip reports and photos with details illustrating this important Colorado climb have been submitted to Jackie's Chimney Rock page. Be sure to check it out, especially if you are considering climbing this imposing rock tower, and be sure to read the trip report as well:
Chimney Rock.
Seduced by Chimney Rock
Acknowledgements:
“Guide to the Colorado Mountains 9th Edition” (CMC)
“The San Juan Mountains: A Climbing and Hiking Guide” by Robert F. Rosebrough
"Roof of the Rockies: A History of Colorado Mountaineering" by William M. Bueler
SP members Alan and Jackie Ellis and Barry Raven.
External Links Images
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San Juan Range
