Telegraph Peak is set on the border between the Angeles National Forest and the San Bernardino National Forest. Often overshadowed by its neighbor to the northwest, Mount Baldy (San Antonio), Telegraph Peak is much less visited, but no less magnificent. There are two main routes up to the peak. The northern end of the 3-T's trail starts from the Mt Baldy Ski Area, elevation 6160ft. This trail is shorter, about 11 miles round trip, but much less scenic. It starts off with a slow winding accent to the Baldy Notch on a dirt service road through the ski area. At the Notch, follow Gold Ridge Road out of the ski area, past Thunder Mountain. The last mile follows a set of switchbacks up the west side of the mountain, gaining about 1000ft. The peak will be just behind you up the short ridgeline to the North.

Routes

Ruta Normal

The 3 T's southern terminus is at Icehouse Saddle, up Icehouse Canyon. This route is 12.5 miles round trip. From the trailhead, simply follow Icehouse Canyon up the steady ascent to Icehouse Saddle, elevation 7580ft. From the saddle take the 3Ts Trail, which takes you first up to Timber Mountain, then descends down to the saddle between Telegraph and Timber. Then comes a steep set of switchbacks, gaining 1400ft in a little over a mile. The views of nearby Baldy, Cucamonga, and Ontario Peak are unobstructed. Be sure to bring plenty of water, and warm clothes. After leaving Icehouse Canyon water is seasonal, and winds on the ridge and peak can drop temperatures very quickly.

Northwest Face

The Northwest Face has numerous ski lines running down directly from the summit down into Coldwater Canyon. One can climb up these couloirs, with each one having a bit of a different flavor. Conditions rapidly change the friendliness of the face, with dry conditions forcing one to climb on scree with a fair amount of exposure. In good years, there is hard alpine ice high in the couloirs. One such line is "Easy Way".

At the northern edge of the face lies a series of wide couloirs which make for great skiing and are of moderate angle (45-50 degrees), and often hold good snow later than the rest of the face. "Northpaw" is the most prominent route.

West Face

The west face has one major couloir splitting the face. This is home to One Nut Wonder (1NW), a moderately-hard alpine climb which consists of snow and alpine ice to 55 degrees (average of 45-50), and a rock crux of 5.7. The crux is graded 5.7 but is a local area grade, so most rock grades on the poor rock nearby mean it's a bit stiffer, typically runout, and the conditions are predictable only in that they're impossible to predict. You could come up to the 'dryfall' (waterfall sans water, typically) on a cold day, and it could either be covered in snow, frozen over as a short waterfall climb, or running, which makes climbing difficult with beyond-numb hands on a chunky, hard-to-protect crack climb, often wearing crampons. Drytooling is often a waste of time, as the pressure exerted by a pick usually blows holds. Lightweight waterproof gloves might help.

All above the crux of 1NW is easy/moderate snow and alpine ice. The route ends on the south summit of Telegraph Peak with awesome views towards the city.

Getting There

210 to Baseline. Take Baseline west and make a right on Padua. Take Padua up for a bit until you hit Baldy Road. Right turn on Baldy Road.

If you want to take the 3-T's out of Icehouse Canyon, park at Icehouse Canyon and hike up to the Saddle. From there, signs point you north to Timber, and then on to Telegraph.

The northern terminus of the 3 T's starts at the summit of Thunder Mountain. One must park at Manker Flats, and hike up San Antonio Falls Road. Road terminates at Baldy Notch. Hike straight north where you see the road continue, then take it east and follow it to the summit of Thunder. The rest is self-explanatory. The trail switchbacks up the broad west slope of Telegraph Peak.

Red Tape

Trailheads are open year round, though during winter months snow tires or chains may be required to reach the higher elevations. National Forest Adventure Pass is required for each vehicle that is parked at any trailhead. Fees are $5.00 a day or $30.00 for an annual pass. These can be obtained from any of the ranger stations or from many of the local merchants. Overnight permits are required, these also can be obtained at the Ranger Station, and a special permit for all camp stoves is required in the Angeles National Forest.

When To Climb

Year round. In winter, crampons may be helpful on the gentle western slope the 3-T's trail takes towards Thunder Mountain, and the steeper ascent from Timber to Telegraph.

There are a handful of technical routes on the mountain. Special equipment applies.

Camping

Camping is permitted at Manker Flat by the Ski area, and with a backcountry wilderness permit anywhere on the Mountain. Permits are free, and given out on a first come first serve basis at the Mt Baldy Village Visitors Center.

Mountain Conditions

Angeles National Forest (626)574-5209
San Gabriel River Ranger District (626)335-1251
Mt Baldy Visitors Center (909)982-2829

External Links

San Gabriel Mountain Discussion Forum

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