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Geography
| Mons Peak   | 
| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Alberta, Canada, North America Elevation: 10114 ft / 3083 m | Page By: dug Created/Edited: Oct 30, 2003 / Nov 4, 2003 Object ID: 152018 Hits: 1759 Loading... Page Score: 87.65% - 7 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview
Mons Peak in the Canadian Rockies lies in the heart of some very scenic and remote country. Located in the Mons Icefield it makes a good introductory snow and ice climb in the Rockies. It does however sport an arduous approach. It is bounded on the north by the Lyell icefield and the Lyell peaks. To the east is Mt. Forbes, seventh highest in the Rockies.
Bivouac.com states: Mons Peak was named for the village of Mons, Belgium which was retaken from the Germans by Canadian forces just prior to the end of World War I, in 1918. In August 1914, near the beginning of the war, allied troops had suffered a losing battle at this same spot.
Getting There
Normally approach via the Glacier Lake Trail. The trailhead is located off the icefields parkway just 1.1 km north of the Saskatchewan River Village.
The Icefields parkway can be reached from the east from Calgary via Hwy 1A, or Hwy 11 farther north. From the west you can use Hwy 1 or 93. Hwy 16 (Yellowhead hwy) runs through the parks via the town of Jasper.
Approach
Park at the Glacier lake trailhead located off the icefields parkway just 1.1 km north of the Saskatchewan River Village. Follow the well maintained trail to the head of glacier lake, about 8 miles. (Lots of bear activity in the campgrounds of the lake.) From there follow the rapidly degrading trail up the north bank of the Glacier river to the large open basin at the head of the river. Note: When I was there in 1988 the trail was as described. In doing some further research it appears the trail may now be maintained to the head of the river, but I do not have first hand knowledge of this) At some point the river must be crossed. It is swift and cold and care must be taken in fording. A climbers trail can be located ascending the timbered knob at the south end of the basin. Follow this trail as it climbs steeply up the knob then crosses to the west and climbs improbably up toward cliffs to the west. Eventually you climb above the canyon and then drop slightly to the edge of the Mons glacier. Camps can be made here or at the foot of the North Glacier of Mt. Forbes for climbing both peaks. Roughly 4-6 hrs from Glacier Lake.
Red Tape
Permits and fees are required for backcountry camping.
This page has a full fee schedule.
When To Climb
Usually the summer months of June through sept. offer the best climbing conditions.
Camping
Camping is allowed in campgrounds only.
Jasper campgrounds
Banff campgrounds
Backcountry areas are open to camping. Permits and fees are required for backcountry camping. See red tape above.
Mountain Conditions
Banff web cam
Avalanche conditions
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