Doug was kind enough to adopt this page out as I plan on making a summit bid. Weather is not cooperating with us at the moment. Will redo it once I make the summit. (my personal policy regarding mountain pages) Thanks for your patience.
A classically shaped high peak of the Rockies. It is bounded by Lyell ice field and Lyell peaks to the north and the Mons icefield to the west. Hidden from the icefields parkway it is a long approach to climb this peak. See the approach section. Forbes features several excellent routes including the standard west ridge route and the slightly more demanding northwest face. Glacier travel is mandatory and a good working knowledge of glacier safety is a prerequisite.

Getting There

Normally approach via the Glacier Lake Trail. The trailhead is located off the icefields parkway just 1.1 km north of the Saskatchewan River Village.
The Icefields parkway can be reached from the east from Calgary via Hwy 1A, or Hwy 11 farther north. From the west you can use Hwy 1 or 93. Hwy 16 (Yellowhead hwy) runs through the parks via the town of Jasper.

Red Tape

Permits and fees are required for backcountry camping.
This page has a full fee schedule.

Approach

Park at the Glacier lake trailhead located off the icefields parkway just 1.1 km north of the Saskatchewan River Village. Follow the well maintained trail to the head of glacier lake, about 8 miles. (Lots of bear activity in the campgrounds of the lake.) From there follow the rapidly degrading trail up the north bank of the Glacier river to the large open basin at the head of the river. Note: When I was there in 1988 the trail was as described. In doing some further research it appears the trail may now be maintained to the head of the river, but I do not have first hand knowledge of this) At some point the river must be crossed. It is swift and cold and care must be taken in fording. A climbers trail can be located ascending the timbered knob at the south end of the basin. Follow this trail as it climbs steeply up the knob then crosses to the west and climbs improbably up toward cliffs to the west. Eventually you climb above the canyon and then drop slightly to the edge of the Mons glacier. Camps can be made here or at the foot of the North Glacier of Mt. Forbes. Roughly 4-6 hrs from Glacier Lake.

Routes

This is just a brief overview of routes on this mountain. Any one who has climbed any of these should feel free to submit a more detailed route description.
W. Ridge (standard) Gain the north glacier easily from the Mons and follow it up toward col in W. ridge. You can stay on the NW face and hit the ridge about halfway up, or from the col stay on the ridge crest.
Northwest Face As for W. Ridge but climb directly up the face angling toward the top of the W. ridge. Apparently similar to Skyladder on Mt. Adromeda (ref: Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies)
North Ridge Reputably a good route. Again as for W. Ridge but continue across glacier to col in N. Ridge. Climb ridge traversing several gendarmes. (ref: Climber Guide to the Rocky Mountains Of Canada-North)

When To Climb

Usually the summer months of June through sept. offer the best climbing conditions. Winter provides an interesting variation.

Camping

Camping is allowed in campgrounds only.
Jasper campgrounds
Banff campgrounds
Backcountry areas are open to camping. Permits and fees are required for backcountry camping. See red tape above.

Mountain Conditions

Banff web cam
Avalanche conditions
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