Santa María volcano is part of the volcanic arc that runs all along the coast of Guatemala. The main attraction for most visitors is the view of the active Santiaguito lava dome (2510 m) which grows within the crater that formed during Santa María's cataclysmic eruption in 1902. The normal route to climb Santa María starts from the outskirts of Quetzaltenango city. The path up the cone passes through subtropical and then pine forest and is fairly steep overall but easily manageable due to the well maintained switchbacks. The summit area is a large area of rocks and boulders where you can camp. Many people climb it, as the summit is also a place for Mayan ceremonies conducted by local people.
View of Santa María from the south-west
View from Santo Tomas
Getting there, Routes and Guides
Getting there: Quetzaltenango is the ideal base for a trip. There are many ways to get to the trailhead including taking a southwest bound bus from the terminal to the south-west end of Rio Seco, which is on the northern base of the volcano (see map below). If you drive to the regular trailhead, either get dropped off or find someone locally to look after your vehicle, don't just leave it by the roadside. Hitching rides or paying someone free to drive you there or back is also possible if you're bored of waiting for buses or if you've missed the last one. Proper taxis would be ~ Q70 / US$10 (based on info listed on the page for the nearby Cerro Quemado). Drive time is ~ 30 minutes. If you have something with 4-wheel drive you can actually save an hour or so by following the rutted-track that heads west from Rio Seco and then curves back round to the south and then east till you get to the grassy area mentioned below (this road can be seen on the below maps). Note that you would want to be getting dropped off as leaving your vehicle up there might not be the best. Also this route has so many offshoots that you'll need good directions or try using Google Earth. [The previous iteration of this page gave directions to Chicavioc via Llano del Pinal (see corresponding map) and here which appear to be in similar locations to Rio Seco and El Salamar. These may or may not be different places leading to a different route, however being unfamilar with the names I chose to provide information which I know to be valid and subscribes to the names available via Google Maps].
Routes: The climbing time to the top is 3 - 5 hours depending on how much you're carrying and the descent time is approximately 2 - 3 hours. From these settlements of small houses, farmland, a bus stop and a local shop you continue on the road towards the volcano. After a few minutes from Rio Seco the road will change into a path through steep farmland and into forests. After about an hour you reach an open grassy area 'La Mesa' surrounded by trees. At this point the volcano cone is on your left (east). You can miss it easily if there is thick cloud cover as you would perceive the mist above the trees as open air. Leave the grassy area in an easterly direction and continue till you hit a big sign and some wooden constructs. (There is actually a shortcut a little ways back down the main approach path that brings you to the same point). Regardless, from here take a right and the path which heads up the cone. You can't really get lost, just follow the obvious trail as it goes upward. It's actually much easier to get lost trying to find the path down from the summit on the way back. As this is a busy trail however feel free to ask anyone for directions.
Video of morning view from top of Santa María down to Santiaguito.
Getting to Santiaguito: From the grassy area mentioned above you can continue southward through a complex network of paths to 'El Mirador' which gives you a good look out over Santiaguito if the weather is clear. Most of the paths lead to the same place, my main tip is that when you come to a big fallen tree that you take a left and go round the back of it rather than taking the more obvious path in front of you. It takes about 45 minutes to get to 'El Mirador', and then several more hours to get to Santiaguito if you're up for it, it's certainly recommended. See the main Santiaguito page for more specific route info.
View of Santiaguito from El Mirador
Guide information: While you don't really need a guide to get to or up Santa María there are options available. Some examples I found listed on the internet during a brief search are listed here, the latter two of which are listed in Lonely Planet's Guatemala book.
There aren't any restrictions to camp in the forest or on top of the mountain, nor are there any huts or fees. Note that people camping on the summit previously have been robbed. There are plenty of places you can camp off the summit which might afford you better protection, but no guarantees. There are no tourist police around unless you hire them yourself.
Also, from mmcguigan: "Recently drug runners have been using the lower portion of this trail as they carry cocaine and other substances to Mexico. There have been a number of gun battles between these criminals and the military. Don't let this stop you from climbing this wonderful volcano but be careful and don't leave the trail - especially in the lower sections."
Adrenalina Tours and Quetzal Trekkers (see links above) have offices in town which may be able to provide up to date information on things going on. Click the Contact Info links on their websites for addresses.
When to climb and Weather
During the dry season (November to April) climbing conditions on the steeper parts of the climb will be much easier as the muddy paths will be drier. The views will also be considerably better as cloud cover will tend to be restricted from ~10 AM to 5 PM. This is a considerable change to days gone by when the dry season meant no clouds. Global climate change at work. Temperature ranges can be extreme during the dry season, ranging from freezing at night to 30 C / 90 F during the day. There is a chance of a slight rain too if there are clouds about. During the wet season expect persistent cloud and a lot of rain. Not really worth going if you want to have a good time. Compare the photos below for an idea of the difference between seasons.
