Pizzo della Presolana

Mountain/Rock

Pizzo della Presolana

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Lombardy, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.93000°N / 10.05000°E

Elevation: 8270 ft / 2521 m

Page By: eluc

Created/Edited: Mar 5, 2004 / Mar 17, 2005

Object ID: 152384

Hits: 2571

Page Score: 77.91% - 10 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

Presolana is one of the must known peak of Orobic pre-Alps.
Its vertical walls are famous among all italian climbers.
Presolana is located in Central Lombardy, at the border between Bergamo and Brescia province.
It was climber for the first time in 1879, 3 Oct by A. Curo', F. Frizzoni, C. Medici that reached the highest of its heigts, the West Presolana, climbing the south wall following a line that is today the normal route to this peak, easy to climb with a minimal rock experience.

(by brenta) The Presolana is a vast mountain comprising five main peaks. Looking from the South, one finds, from left to right,

(1) Pizzo della Presolana di Castione (2474 m, 8117 ft)
(2) Pizzo della Presolana Occidentale (2521 m, 8271 ft)
(3) Pizzo della Presolana del Prato (2,477 m, 8127 ft)
(4) Pizzo della Presolana Centrale (2517 m, 8258 ft)
(5) Pizzo della Presolana Orientale (2490 m, 8169 ft)

"Pizzo" means "peak." Castione is the name of a nearby city. "Prato" means "meadow," while "Occidentale," "Centrale," and "Orientale" stand--as one easily imagines--for "Western", "Central," and "Eastern," respectively.

The five summits are connected by an East-West ridge that is climbed in both directions. It is not technically demanding, but it's not a hike either.

Though the highest point is the summit of the Western peak, the most popular technical routes are on the South face of the central peak. These include the classic Longo and Ratti-Bramani routes.

The rock is limestone with large, steep slabs dotted by pockets and hourglasses of all sizes. It is generally solid on the South face, though not on the ridges that lead from the end of the technical difficulties to the summits. On the North side the quality varies considerably from route to route. To compensate for that, this face has a grandeur that is not matched even by the imposing South face.

Getting There

Presolana is reachable from Milano via Milano-Venezia motorway, driving until Bergamo gate. Then follow for Val Seriana to reach Clusone village, and from here to Presolana Pass. (south side, start of normal route and south wall climbing routes).
To reach the start point for the routes rising the north wall, you have to continue descending from the pass for 8-9 km and then turn on the left in direction of Colere.
From here starts the route for Refuge Albani, base-point for north wall climbing routes.

Red Tape

No specific limitation to climb this mountain.

When To Climb

Best time to climb the peak is from spring to autumn.

Camping

No free camping is allowed in the area. For south side, you can sleep in one of the several hotels at Presolana Pass or (if open) in Malga Cassinelli Refuge (30-40 min. from pass). On the north side you can reach Refuge Albani (1939 mt, tel +39 0346 51105, opened from 15 June to 15 September, only weekend from february to November)

Mountain Conditions

You can refer to the ref. Albani manager to obtain info about mountain condition

Miscellaneous Info

(by brenta) Two (old) books that describe several routes on the Presolana are:

1. N. Calegari, S. Calegari, and F. Radici, "Orobie: 88 immagini per arrampicare," Edizioni Bolis, Bergamo, 1985.

2. A. Savonitto, "Scalate scelte nel Bergamasco," Melograno Edizioni, Milano, 1986.

Neither book has an ISBN: I don't know if one can still find copies in local bookstores.

Both books cover much more than just the Presolana.
Book (1) focuses on traditional routes. It is hardbound, printed on glossy paper, and has lots of high-quality B/W photographs and drawings. Book (2) is a small-format guide easily carried in one's backpack, which deals primarily with sport climbs.

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